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  1. Only the 1100 has the check panel (so different instruments!). Also only the 1100 has the self canceling indicators (turn signal control unit). If I recall correctly, my 750 Katana also did not have the self canceling signals. Another difference between Katana (and ESD/EFE?) and GSX (ET/EX) looms is the instrument connector(s). Katanas (sadly) furthermore do not have a gear indicator (only neutral), but the wiring for it is separate from the loom anyway. Apart from all of this are the country-specific loom versions, probably mostly concerning different lighting regulations.
  2. Well.. What Arttu said. Never done said swap myself, but heard form others that tapping in new seals into the crankcases can be quite a tight fit. Also I wouldn't write off the old seal yet. On my Kat (EFE-engine) the crank seal developed an oil weep too, but this somehow fixed itself eventually after some time riding the bike. You might also try scraping the contact area of the seal on the crank carefully as dirt might have collected in here preventing a tight seal. If oil is actually dripping out though chances to save the old seal might seem slim..
  3. Looks like ESD to me. Look up the stanchion diameter to make sure.
  4. arnout

    Gs1150 cams

    Or a random bolt/nut or gravel pellet sucked in via the carbs.. (note the lack of any air filtration). Btw I wonder what damage there is on the head and valves..
  5. Thnx! Errr.. No not just trimming a relief for the shock. The ZXR hugger I used has a chain tunnel from which I cut the outer part off. I attached the remaining edge to the XJR chain guard, which I trimmed in height so both parts would sit flush on top of the swingarm. Also added an alloy strip inside guard to strengthen especially the shock cutout area. To attach the hugger to this swingarm on the RH-side I made a simple L-shaped bracket that lines up with existing mounting holes.
  6. arnout

    Gs1150 cams

    I just learned CWC (Campbell, Wyant and Cannon, Foundry Company now CWC-Textron) is the foundry that casts camshaft blanks and other engine components for many factories worldwide but mainly for the US. Probably all aftermarket Suzuki cams are marked with CWC. The other cast-in markings (EP71, D4, C3, etc) refer to the blank only (probably meaning "Suzuki GS1100", IN or EX cam, etc). The thing to look for are stamped markings in the cam ends that should point out the "grind number" and perhaps will identify the manufacturer as well.
  7. Or to keep the stand away from the chain?
  8. On my Kat I have an old type Daytona oil temp gauge. I fitted the M14x1.25 threaded sensor that came with it in place of the oil plug on the RH side of the engine (main oil gallery behind cylinder block). I believe on a GS850 engine there is a similar plug? Perhaps the maker of your (aftermarket?) tacho/speedo gauge might offer various differently threaded sensors? If not, you'd indeed have to make/find an adapter.
  9. I learned today that Rene EFE makes lovely engine stands. The ones I saw had oil cooled engines fitted to them though, so not sure about any air cooled versions..
  10. I modified a ZXR750 hugger to fit onto the XJR swingarm in my GSX750EX (now Katana). I merged the Kawasaki hugger with the XJR chain guard (bolts on top!) that belongs to this swingarm and already has a cutout relief for the LH shock Hardly a stock bike or easy fix, but still a twin shock setup with a hugger. Perhaps you can get some inspiration from my efforts (steal my idea) for your bike?
  11. No need to pull any wiring, or remove seat or tank. The 1100 (and 750) Katana are so stupidly easy to "hotwire" because of the exposed fuse box I'm a bit hesitant to mention it openly on here.. With connecting the red to the orange the starter button will have power. Unless you flipped the kill switch that is. First get yourself a wiring schematic though.. Pulling any wires before actually knowing what you're doing is a no no.
  12. I've fitted an EFE engine in my fake Katana that is built around a GSX750EX frame. Although I modded a lot of stuff on that frame I'm pretty sure the EFE lump should drop into a stock frame easily using the original mounting plates give or take a few washers as spacers here and there. Just the front bottom mounts need custom plates on 750 frames alone fitting 1100 engines because of the different position mounting holes on the GSX750 engines. Make these plates after (test) fitting the engine. Templates are easily made by offering up a piece of cardboard and punching holes with a pencil where the bolts should go. On some engine-frame combo's the engine just hits one of these threaded bolt holes bushes on the frame, and some grinding (1 mm) is needed to provide the necessary relief and allow proper lining up of the other holes/mounts.
  13. Hmm.. I think the spark test IS the way to test a CDI. But as you've swapped it out with no change of results, it seems very likely the fault lies elsewhere. I reckon using a multimeter any generated pulses should be detectable though, but I've never tried that myself. To limit the number of variables (and the loom) perhaps the best way forward is making a bench setup of the ignition system. Pull the coils, signal generator and CDI from the bike and hook them up in a simple circuit a shown on the diagram in the manual. Battery can stay on the bike via leads or use a different power supply,
  14. Nowaday so-called caferacers have absolutely nothing in common with the original concept. Going as fast as the wallet allows today would see totally different bikes being used to modify (Hayabusa's?) The wood-grain, brown leather seat, tassle decorated bikes the bearded folk produce really should be called retrocruisers as they are about life style rather than going fast. I feel sorry for the hacked up classic Japanese bikes that will eventually end up on the scrapheap when the fad has blown over. [/rant over]
  15. Just found out the GSX550ES/EF fuel cap assy has the same partno.
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