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About markfoggy

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    Bordon UK

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  1. WP/N seems to have a stem length similar to just about any Modern ish Suzuki, but if you look at the frame design, it's fairly easy to spot that Anything from SRAD on will probably be a bit short in the fork. I ended up going Trumpet, cause they have and up and over frame design and the 595 955i dropped straight in. Many things were stolen from the Hamamatsu UJB design school, I think. If you want something more USD, ZX10's have a long fork and people have made a mix and match easily enough using Suzuki yokes, i think it's just a matter of knowing the fork stanchion diameters and th
  2. Dropping a spindle size is really useful, but only comes into play if you want to make the wheel spacers captive. All of a sudden though, you are into finding an engineering shop and making lots of bits. The spacers could happily have a sleeve section 28 o/d and 25 I/d, that press into the wheel bearings. Also you could get a pair of accurate stainless tubes that press through Hayabusa Adjusters, but are a press fit. If these were longer by the depth of the slot in the arm, Job Jobbed. Smart money then is to have the brake side one also locate the rear caliper hanger to stop it dropping
  3. Oh and swing arm pivot size is an issue. WP had a 25mm spindle and an adjuster on the left and later bikes have a 30 and adjuster from the right. causes all sorts of potential fuck ups. (don't quote me on this, I need to check again). I've got a frame that some fuckwit tried to hack out larger, which is useful for other things, but is only a jig nowadays.
  4. I think the trick is to get something quite narrow at the swing arm mount. Dims on the W series are very similar to pre Boiler so most known things will work. But, I'd steer clear of 6" rim solutions on very modern tackle unless you fancy milling the swing arm pivot width down to size. All doable but would take a big machine to do it. I think whole Priller is probably a good choice and you should get it from a breaker all in one piece to make life relatively easy. I, of course, just wanted to make my life difficult so opted for a combination of Benelli and Triumph wheels, but that is
  5. Yes, but you should be careful with your spooling and try searching by describing the model type correctly.
  6. Just remember that the most important bit is the crush tube inside the wheel hub. This is what makes those bearings run true.it needs to be an exact length to support the inner part of the race.
  7. https://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/Replica-Yamaha-260mm Drops straight in.....ish Stop fucking about. They do a rear as well.
  8. I'm guessing that they centre the crush tube that supports the dimension between the inner bearing race. If they take up the slack inside the wheel hub, the spindle will slide through without you having to wriggle the spindle about to centralise the tube.
  9. FYI, the later frames had all that internal casting plated over, 45 degree box web reinforcement of the top rear cross member. Solid, not bolt in tank bracket, plus additional bracing at the headstock. Plus the very last of them had cast plates from the upper rail that picked up on the engine to make it more of a stressed member and to increase lateral stiffness and longitudinal stability. The later style symmetrical over braced arm was derived from the kit bikes, evidence of them being employed on your frame year is the SERT bikes.
  10. Oh, you probably want some M6 screws, possibly M8 . Is it one of these? https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1975/gt250
  11. I have a horrible recollection that these used to do some racing and that you could disappear down a rabbit hole of stupidly expensive parts making it all work. Which sounds like fun....... Is it finished yet?
  12. Great idea, Not sure how late a frame will fit into the regs, but the one that I've based my project around is later and with all the internal bracing. If you want a frame to untack what they put in and add to an early frame I will have one that can be sacrificial shortly. If it's a braced frame with the swing arm adjuster on the rhs, I have a brand new adjuster and lock nut that I can throw into the cause. 675 wheels are a very light option and I have a round spoke one that I can give away, has had all the factory marks ground off, but it's straight and ready for powder. Hub is a l
  13. Love that.........Are you aware about how much filthy knowledge is around for racing those things.
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