neil w

Sorry but don't bother with helicoils, Wurth Timesert is the way forward ... did mine 20 years ago and it is still fine

If you are using a B6 rear wheel and Gs500 sprocket carrier it is also easier at the same time to put on a GSX750F (early teapot rear caliper, the one that mounts above the swinging arm) and using an early gsxr caliper carrier you can use the B6 disc

I have an aftermarket Toyota MR2 plastic (crystal) light in my Katana......straight swap. better light and about 1/3 if the weight of standard

On my Katana the starter was fine until I rebuilt the motor with an 1166 kit and then it struggled . it eventually packed in (the magnets separated from the casing) so I picked up a used one from E Bay, it was very little better until I replaced the battery with an AGM one and then the cranking speed was much quicker and no problems

Bandit 6 rear wheel fits straight in and no need to reduce the carrier if you are using a 160/150 tyre just use a GS500e twin sprocket carrier. If you use a gsx750f rear caliper (the one that is above the axle) it fts straight on using the original torque arm

Fair enough Pretech 6 pot calipers but on my Kat I have had both Nissin 4 pot calipers and Tokico 6 pot calipers (with matching master cylinders and both running EBC HH pads ) and despite the Tokicos being fully rebuilt with new seals the 4 pots give a much better feel and more bite to the the brakes . By all accounts Nissin 6 pot calipers are vastly superior but like hens teeth to get hold of , I would also consider a set of later Brembo 4 pot calipers

Had a set in a katana that didn't want to play, ended up having to cut through the outer race with a dremel, next one that caused problems I went for a less subtle means , piece of flat steel that fitted within the narrowest point of the inner race that was welded into place . (latter method perhaps not the best if the frame isn't being refinished ). Combination of the heat and somwhere to hit and it popped out

Oops sorry it is actually a Mocal 10 row , I checked the bills and remember that I exchanged the 13 row cooler for a 10 row one prior to fitting as the 10 row one fits within the height of the katana fairing side wings without needing to trim the plastic (the 13 row would have needed me to cut the panels)

Upper and lower brackets are made with aluminium angle and were drilled so as not to block air flow to the head ,using a car type cooler you need to use lengths of aluminium spacer tube as on picture one and two to prevent the mountings crushing down when tightened up. Just checked up and the cooler and mounts have now been on the bike for well over 10 years with no problems or leaks and the added benefit of running an extra 1.5 litres of oil in the system. My mounts make sure that anywhere the cooler is mounted it is sitting on rubber cushions and never touches any of the bracketry If fitting one I would recommend uprating the oil pump gears (gs750) just to up the volume of oil flowing around the system

Here you go

A few years ago on my 1170 kat I bought a Mocal 13 row full width cooler from a local MGB specialist for about £45 to £50 , had to make up suitably strong but rubber mounted brackets and then buy the correct goodridge stainless lines and fittings but I think all in not including the EFE oild filter cover it was just over £120. At the time Suzuki specialists were charging more than twice that for an identical kit Can post pics if you want

Pull the clutch cover off and check the clutch drum to see if it has any tell tale marks of it clipping the crank web (it looks like the edge has been machined) if the centre bearing or more likely the springs in the rear of the basket are worn it takes very little for this to occur and it causes a rythmic tapping noise from the bottom end .

If you have a look on the www.metalgear.com.au website they list discs and full sizes and usually offsets

If the bike has stood for any length of time PRIME has to be used , if only for 30 seconds or so and then the bike will start and the tap can be turned back onto the normal running position. Battery condition and plugs also make a difference I did a bit of research of few years ago with plugs and found that NGK Iridium plugs made the bike start easier AND it very quickly settled down to a regular tickover. On older bikes and cars with points ignition and carbs, Iridium plugs make a huge difference to starting and overall running Bikes and cars with rudimentary electronic ignition and carbs or early mechanical injection Iridium plugs will be an improvement but not as great More modern vehicles with ecu controlled electronic ignition and fuel injection , Iridium plugs will make no difference to running but do last a bit longer

I was out on my 400 one day and stopped at a local cafe where there were a load of bikes parked up, problem with the 400 is that it attracts the self opinionated prats who know that it is not a 750/1000 or 1100 but despite never having seen or ridden one will at length spout off to all and sundry about it not being a real katana and that it is not a patch on a 11100. At the time I was running my 1100, the 400 and a 550 katana , so I pointed out to him very loudly in front of his gathered crowd that he was talking out of his ars* and that I owned a 1100, a 550 and the 400 and that on any of the back roads in the area the 400 would run rings around a standard 1100 due to its lighter weight and better brakes and that was the reason that the 1100 /550 were sitting at home in the garage. if I had the room I would have another one in the garage