clivegto Posted April 3, 2019 Posted April 3, 2019 4 hours ago, manden said: Is the busa rods lighter? There the same weight but fiscally bigger. Quote
manden Posted April 3, 2019 Posted April 3, 2019 Thanks m8 Beefier and better aerodynamics. Not much lightning can be done. Quote
bYmi Posted April 12, 2019 Posted April 12, 2019 Has anyone facts if genuine Carrillo's clear the crankcases? 'Cos I once bought a set of no-brand "Carrillos" from a local supplier and the 3. cyl rod failed to clear the main gallery to transmission oil passage.. the ARP bolt head interferes.. by the time I just decided to scrap the turboing idea and go all motor with stock rods. Then I later heard from someone that it is normal with this kind of H-Beam rods and that you have to fit the rods to crank and then grind off the bolt head so it clears it... sound a bit dodgy to me... For instance, I think Crower makes nice looking rods with top-down bolts and other variations for better clearance, been thinking about a set of those for my drag bike build (1127M). 1 Quote
Maggotbreath Posted April 12, 2019 Posted April 12, 2019 Yep, that's normal, grind a bit off the oil passage casting and chamfer the rod bolt. Good to go. Quote
clivegto Posted April 12, 2019 Posted April 12, 2019 6 hours ago, bYmi said: Has anyone facts if genuine Carrillo's clear the crankcases? 'Cos I once bought a set of no-brand "Carrillos" from a local supplier and the 3. cyl rod failed to clear the main gallery to transmission oil passage.. the ARP bolt head interferes.. by the time I just decided to scrap the turboing idea and go all motor with stock rods. Then I later heard from someone that it is normal with this kind of H-Beam rods and that you have to fit the rods to crank and then grind off the bolt head so it clears it... sound a bit dodgy to me... For instance, I think Crower makes nice looking rods with top-down bolts and other variations for better clearance, been thinking about a set of those for my drag bike build (1127M). Not done it but have read on hear that a couple of people have. Quote
wombat258 Posted April 12, 2019 Posted April 12, 2019 Yes, clearance the cases and chamfer the rod bolts. Do not use top down rods. They are weaker and break . . . expensive experience! Quote
bYmi Posted April 13, 2019 Posted April 13, 2019 Yeah thats something I might try finally with this build.. i did try how much clearancing can be done with ones that had gearbox side damaged, there really is not much (maybe .040”) on the oil passage to clearance until you break through.. and to have reasonable clearance it seemed like you need to grind .100” or more off the bolt only it to clear and have some clearance on top of that. Thats why it got me thinking that something is not right and I left the idea but like what you are saying, that its normal, i might just have to do it IIRC there wasn’t any other clearance problems with such rods Quote
Spazpecker Posted April 25, 2021 Posted April 25, 2021 As busa rods are 2mm longer you need to add a 2mm spacer to the barrels to compensate ? 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted April 25, 2021 Posted April 25, 2021 On 4/13/2019 at 7:52 AM, bYmi said: Yeah thats something I might try finally with this build.. i did try how much clearancing can be done with ones that had gearbox side damaged, there really is not much (maybe .040”) on the oil passage to clearance until you break through.. and to have reasonable clearance it seemed like you need to grind .100” or more off the bolt only it to clear and have some clearance on top of that. Thats why it got me thinking that something is not right and I left the idea but like what you are saying, that its normal, i might just have to do it IIRC there wasn’t any other clearance problems with such rods LOL's - just imagine how much clearance was required with a +5mm stroke in my 'M' engine! Oh, and HAVING to swap out shims for screw adjust rockers is BS! They spit shims if they are over rev'd - riders kill engines not design 'flaws' 1 Quote
mikeyd Posted April 25, 2021 Posted April 25, 2021 I never had to clearance 1127 cases to fit Carrillo rods with stock stroke crank. Also, if this bike is strictly drag race, buy a set of rods. A lot of people use Busa, water cooled, Bandit rods and made good numbers on the dyno, but they are street bikes that never see that horsepower number again and certainly not constantly so irrelevant what held up in their motors. If you are drag racing, mass produced stock rods out of any motor were never meant to see triple the power. Quote
MeanBean49 Posted April 25, 2021 Posted April 25, 2021 2 hours ago, mikeyd said: I never had to clearance 1127 cases to fit Carrillo rods with stock stroke crank. Also, if this bike is strictly drag race, buy a set of rods. A lot of people use Busa, water cooled, Bandit rods and made good numbers on the dyno, but they are street bikes that never see that horsepower number again and certainly not constantly so irrelevant what held up in their motors. If you are drag racing, mass produced stock rods out of any motor were never meant to see triple the power. Not strictly true, ive been running stock b12 rods in mine for years. Thousands of road miles, tons of trackdays and lots of landspeed events with no issues. Running at over tripple hp, and way way more torque. Keep things well setup and well serviced and stock rods are pretty good. Ive only had any issues when pushing on above 300bhp Quote
Niqueman14 Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 On 1/18/2019 at 10:09 PM, mikeyd said: Some guys get away with stock rods ups to 300hp (not recommended ) Then they will use water-cooled rods or gen 1 Busa rods, but if its track only , get Carillos - very strong for anything over 250 hp and worth the price, which is bullshit since you can get 8 rods for a chevy for less. I think Crower still makes oil cooled rods to. Have not had good luck with Falicon rods. Worry more about doing a rocker head conversion. quick question what is the rocker head conversion??.. Thinking of a similar build on my watercooled 1100w Quote
Gixer1460 Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 13 minutes ago, Niqueman14 said: quick question what is the rocker head conversion??.. Thinking of a similar build on my watercooled 1100w Swapping shim valve actuation to 'normal' rocker arm actuation . . . . . . . pointless IMO in a turbo engine that is unlikely to be over revved! 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 On 4/3/2019 at 3:47 PM, clivegto said: There the same weight but fiscally bigger. This one flew under the radar when it was posted but just grabbed my attention - if they are the same weight but physically the same size that would imply they are of a slightly lighter steel? I see that the GSXR rod has a 'chunkier' big end with longer bolts but Busa shank and small end are somewhat larger in comparison. As regards strength - unprepped GSXR rods almost guaranteed to fail at 250hp with NOS and under 300hp with turbo. If prepped then maybe 5-10hp more but risky - I don't believe aftermarket rod bolts are available which would help. Not seen too many Busa rod failures so can't say about their strength but they 'look' as if they've got metal in the right places - rod bolt looks weak though! Quote
clivegto Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 @MeanBean49ran standard rods on his Spondon at 280hp on track and sand racing without any problems if I remember correctly. Quote
Duckndive Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 And the Kids bike went just over 300 on stock rods Quote
davecara Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 12 minutes ago, Duckndive said: And the Kids bike went just over 300 on stock rods Kevs engine had busa rods in it iirc Quote
Duckndive Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 24 minutes ago, davecara said: Kevs engine had busa rods in it iirc You could well be right dave Quote
Niqueman14 Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 On 4/25/2021 at 5:02 AM, Spazpecker said: As busa rods are 2mm longer you need to add a 2mm spacer to the barrels to compensate ? quick question does this same rule apply for if you have a couple mm over stroker crankshaft?? or is this only for longer con rods?? Quote
davecara Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 1 minute ago, Niqueman14 said: quick question does this same rule apply for if you have a couple mm over stroker crankshaft?? or is this only for longer con rods?? It would have to or the pistons would smash into the combustion chamber! 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 Applies in both cases and if you want to loose compression - for a turbo using hi comp pistons that are forged (because that is what you've got!) 1 Quote
Niqueman14 Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 20 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said: Applies in both cases and if you want to loose compression - for a turbo using hi comp pistons that are forged (because that is what you've got!) another question do you know the length of stock 1100 con rods?? is it 4.606?? Quote
Reinhoud Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 On 4/4/2019 at 1:47 AM, clivegto said: There the same weight but fiscally bigger. Damn, 493 Katana rods look beefier.. No idea if that's the case. 1 Quote
Reinhoud Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 54 minutes ago, Niqueman14 said: quick question does this same rule apply for if you have a couple mm over stroker crankshaft?? or is this only for longer con rods?? Only halve of the extra stroke 1 Quote
Gixer1460 Posted March 3, 2023 Posted March 3, 2023 5 hours ago, Niqueman14 said: another question do you know the length of stock 1100 con rods?? is it 4.606?? Depends on what 1100? Slabside or Slingshot ? What you quote (although in antiquated measurements LOL) is correct for 89 on GSXR1100 K, L, M and N. If its the earlier engine, then the measurement is 4.261" / 108.23mm 2 Quote
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