wombat258

Throw a set of stock carbs and ignition in it and see if the alternator works OK. Go forward from there.

I had to make an adaptor because the Daytona alternator is completely different to the W alternator. I came across a website that did the conversion for Bandit requiring only some offset drilling of the mounting holes . . . will see if I can track it down tonight (Oz time). I also suggest you log the running of the engine with Tunerstudio to see if you can get a better idea of what causes the engine to cut at high rpm. I found that the default injector voltage pulse correction is way too high (0.2?) and I ended up with a pulse correction of around 0.12. Your table may also be way out . . . AFR

Plus wide band and charging battery 14A + 8A + 1A =23A. Pushing the 28A alternator to the limit. Had same problems with 1100W alternator at 21A draw. Worked OK at full noise, but extended idling or low rpm work and the regulator shut down due to heat overload. The Mosfet upgrade is less prone to heat buildup. I went for a Triumph alternator - 45 amps capacity, and charges strong at idle.

Those alternators will only handle a maximum of 40 amps output, so it will pay for you to work out how much you are trying to pull out of the system with all your accessories running. A clamp style current meter is handy to work that out. The alternators do not do well at idle, and you can overload the regulator quickly if it is trying to excite the rotor to maximum capacity at low engine speeds.

GSXR750 has same main bearing size, but smaller conrod bearings.No experience with 600's.

If no spark I would charge the battery, and retry for spark. If the voltage goes too low while cranking the ignition does not work. Change the plugs if they are fouled with carbon. If the headlights cannot be turned off pull the plugs on the globes to give you more current to start the engine. If you do get it started check that the alternator is charging. Simple test for ignition is to wiggle a screwdriver in the air gap between the pickup and rotor with the ignition on . . . it triggers the spark. If the ignition does not work you will have to get a manual, as suggested.

Have you tried genuine replacements?

I use copper head gaskets on a water-cooled 1300cc circuit race engine with no problems. O-ringed block, flame annealed copper, and copper coat sealer.

+1 for Dezza's response. I also find it helps to pre-bend the inner cable to get it to loop around the drum.

Yes, with a lot of patience.

Standard as-cast port.

Seen it in used engines I have bought as well. Usually associated with rust at the bared areas. I have assumed it was due to old oil in a poorly serviced engine. Could be cheapo plates. I always use genuine.

Should all be the same. What else could they have stuffed up? Send them back.

I have seen a lot of race pistons in stroked car engines machined with the oil ring exposed into the wrist pin hole, and they work successfully. It is an oil scraper and does not need to form a seal on the lower ring land. If you do not like them, send them back. On a bike engine I personally would have used a piston with normal ring pack, and spaced the barrel to suit the stroked crank.

Never stated they were stock pistons. Cannot bore water cooled barrels past 79.5mm, and even then it is near impossible to keep head gaskets sealed. Need to offset bores 1.5mm, and open deck design does not allow for that. And before you chime in, I have run offset bores in circuit race applications with no Carrillo conrod or bearing problems.