wombat258

I would have ditched the stock system and installed a Dyna 2000 ignition and coils. Problem solved!

There is on my Australia plate 1100WS. Maybe it is a country specific requirement?

Should be a noise compliance plate affixed to the chassis or exhaust.

Start by counting gear teeth to calculate the gear ratios. Use google to find out what those ratios match to. There is a big difference between 750W and SRAD.

My bad. I actually made a 6 spring conversion for my 1100W engines a while ago before I went to a lockup. The 1052 is a 4 spring, I bought new parts from Suzuki, as follows: 1 Clutch inner hub 21410-06B02 1 off GSXR1100 G,H & J 2 Pressure disc 21462-06B00 1 off GSXR1100 G,H & J 3 Coil springs 4 off - Barnett HD 4 Spring spacers 09180-06174 4 off GSXR1100 G,H & J 5 Washers 09160-06020 4 off GSXR1100 G,H & J 6 Bolts 01107-06307 4 off GSXR1100 G,H & J

Yes. It is also a common modification to use 6 spring plate on an 1100W, except you need to make a 10mm spacer for under the hub nut to allow for the longer 1100W shaft. You may need a longer pushrod, or add an 11mm bearing as a spacer.

Use a 1052 clutch hub, pressure plate and springs with the 750W input shaft and the 1100W basket, plates etc. You will have to remove the plug from the end of the hollow 750 shaft, and replace it with a support spider from a 1100W donor shaft. Easy hydraulic conversion. Will it last? Maybe if you do not flog it. Necessary? The 1100 engine has lots of torque, so no real necessity for a close range gearbox. And, no need for the Factory Pro star, just transfer ALL the 750 gearbox bits including drum, forks, selector shaft etc.

You can use the 1100W pan without oil cooler. Remove the internal restrictor that you can see through one of the oil cooler outlets, and plug the oil cooler ports. The oil cooler normally works on a partial oil flow.

Just buy them from the Suzuki dealer? Used ones are hard and/or cracked.

I have one in use, but I am not selling. Be aware that they were supplied with water jackets or without jackets. They are indeed very rare to find.

Nothing wrong with std alternator unless you are drawing extra load for EFI. You can use the earlier series (1993) alternator and drive assembly to remove the rubber bush, or alternatively you can machine an aluminium bush to replace the rubber.

There are XG and XC series rings. They have different ring thickness. You may have ordered the wrong series. Measure the width of your old rings. XG are 1mm top, 1mm 2nd, 2mm oil. XC are 1mm/1.2mm/2.8mm. Rarer are XA at 0.8mm/0.8mm/1.5mm

Wiseco recommendations. Multiply bore in inches by the factor to give ring gap. 3" bore equals .015" top, .0165" second for street turbo. Go too tight and the rings can butt with heat and score bores or crack upper ring land. Loose is the way to go to avoid engine damage.

Piston to bore clearance is governed by alloy, bore size and application. Check JE's recommendations, but if OP's engine was quiet at running temps the clearance will be fine. I regularly see these scuff marks andthey do not hurt performance or reliability. I would only be concerned if there was scoring or damage to the ring pack. Of course, if a slealership tore it down you would be up for new pistons and a rebore. Revisiting the original post . . . top land crushing down on the ring is indicative of either excessive heat and temperature, or pistons contacting the head. Hopefully just a bit of excess carbon in the ring groove.