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Everything posted by MeanBean49

  1. Was that on a dyno or a bike actually intended to be used for intended purpose? Im pretty sure the OP isnt particulalry interested in a one off for a few seconds
  2. Gen 1 i think mate, standard pistons fit
  3. Not much difference between gsxr and bandit rods iirc. As long as the motor is in good health should be good up to 280-300bhp. Handle 250bhp easy. That said if you want some busa rods Ive got a box full, you can have a set
  4. Cant remember off hand, would have to dig it out and power it up. Bikes been in bits for over a year now
  5. Any particular tyre? Can be quite a big difference between brands. There was a post on here very recently that had bare weights iirc
  6. Ive had no issues with ignitech one, maybe to do with being able to play with the delay time as well as the kill time. Granted its not like a new bike, but its not like oldskool quickshifters either that only work flat chat at high rpm
  7. Not strictly true. Well setup quickshifter will work just as well at low rpm and small throttle openings too. New bike ones are amazing, you can litterally go up and down the box at steady throttle not much above tickover. Granted they do have a bit more controlling them than a fixed kill time.
  8. Rather than fanny about with springs etc, working out what does what and then again when the tenperature changes etc, I can recomend something like this. https://rspec.co.uk/boost-controllers-electronic-boost-controllers-c-69_109/52mm-pro-iebc-electronic-boost-controller-bar-p-644.html Leave base pressure spring in that gives 5-7psi. Then you can dial in whatever boost you want above that by flicking a switch and turning a dial. Had mine on dash and could change it easily while riding. Mines been dead reliable for 6 years. Used to be able to find them without the gauge for about £85 if you search.
  9. If your going ignitech, ditch the Dyna coils and go for their COP's too. Its a better option
  10. My best freind? Not really, i just thinkthe whole willy waving over a madeup self proclaimed "world reccord" is absolutely pathetic. And I think your way over estimating the amount of people who are actually impressed. Nobody cares about numbers on paper. Want to impress people, make it a motorbike and use it, do somthing real!
  11. Can almost measure in minutes how long bandit pistons last above 5psi lol. Not so important in Mr Steens world where lasting a few seconds on a non motorcycle dyno and getting a big number to plaster all over the internet seems to be all thats important
  12. Im not carting a box of bits there, will think were an autojumble
  13. I always go for agreed value, means you list all the parts etc and they need all round pictures. Costs a bit more but no way they can dispute what is insured
  14. Just a note to bear in mind on the Q plate thing. Not all Q plates mean you can default to 1971 regulations. If you have a declared year of manufacture on the V5 you need to comply to the rules relevant to that year. I wanted to run black and silver plates on my Harris but technically couldnt because it had a manufacture date in 80's. Ive got another ZXR Q plate frame that has no date, saving that one for special use. Saying that I dont think DVLA, Police or MOT testersactually have a clue exactly what the rules are themselves. I just make sure my insurance company know exactly what my bike is so at least then your covered if anything goes wrong.
  15. Ive never bothered changing rings, never had any problems in over 20k miles. Run 15psi regularly and up to 17psi for landspeed stuff. Again never had any problems
  16. They need to be more than a pile though
  17. Will probably head over for a look, doubt I will have a bike in one piece to display by then though
  18. Seen old pads literally fall off the backing plate straight out of the packeton more than one occasion, they also age harden and go brittle, they may work but they generally are shit compared to fresh new pads, not to mention 30 years of development and improvement. Seems pretty strange logic that you wouldnt trust mag wheels, but will calipers, guess stopping aint that important. Just trying to help. Guess it depends what your going to use the bike for.
  19. Think personally id give the calipers back, buy some normal nissin 4 potsand get some decent quality modern pads. They will look similar and work much better. 30 odd year old NOS pads will be shite, and $600 when you need more is ridiculous. Thats before you take into account magnesium does not age well and the caliper ade likely to be dangerous to use anyway
  20. All this guesswork, and feels like on the road etc. Invest in some dyno time and see what its actually doing in each confiuration. I found with mine swapping from slash cut to an underslung full length can using 63mm pipe cut about 20bhp off. But that I think was mostly because of the very short contorted pipe to the can When I had a propper full 63mm system it didnt make that much difference. Had to compromise though as it was decking out badly
  21. No they arent. Slabbies (or some slabbie models) are narrower than Slingys afaik as per my first post. Think its somthing like 90mm slabbie, 100mm slingy and water boilers, 110mm for k series. Centreing the rim is the easy part, trying to get the chain alignment right is the hard part. Not sure if you can just change the spacer behind the front sprocket to conver slabbie motor to slingy dimensions, got a funny feeling theres not enough thread to do it
  22. Worth measuring your standard sprocket offset from wheel centre, getting K-series wheels to fit slingshots involves a lot of work as there is 10mm difference. IIRC slabbies sprocket offset is less than slingy. Its a lot of offset to make up.
  23. I may have a genuine one buiried somewhere, yours if I can find it
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