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Everything posted by MeanBean49

  1. Will probably head over for a look, doubt I will have a bike in one piece to display by then though
  2. Seen old pads literally fall off the backing plate straight out of the packeton more than one occasion, they also age harden and go brittle, they may work but they generally are shit compared to fresh new pads, not to mention 30 years of development and improvement. Seems pretty strange logic that you wouldnt trust mag wheels, but will calipers, guess stopping aint that important. Just trying to help. Guess it depends what your going to use the bike for.
  3. Think personally id give the calipers back, buy some normal nissin 4 potsand get some decent quality modern pads. They will look similar and work much better. 30 odd year old NOS pads will be shite, and $600 when you need more is ridiculous. Thats before you take into account magnesium does not age well and the caliper ade likely to be dangerous to use anyway
  4. All this guesswork, and feels like on the road etc. Invest in some dyno time and see what its actually doing in each confiuration. I found with mine swapping from slash cut to an underslung full length can using 63mm pipe cut about 20bhp off. But that I think was mostly because of the very short contorted pipe to the can When I had a propper full 63mm system it didnt make that much difference. Had to compromise though as it was decking out badly
  5. No they arent. Slabbies (or some slabbie models) are narrower than Slingys afaik as per my first post. Think its somthing like 90mm slabbie, 100mm slingy and water boilers, 110mm for k series. Centreing the rim is the easy part, trying to get the chain alignment right is the hard part. Not sure if you can just change the spacer behind the front sprocket to conver slabbie motor to slingy dimensions, got a funny feeling theres not enough thread to do it
  6. Worth measuring your standard sprocket offset from wheel centre, getting K-series wheels to fit slingshots involves a lot of work as there is 10mm difference. IIRC slabbies sprocket offset is less than slingy. Its a lot of offset to make up.
  7. I may have a genuine one buiried somewhere, yours if I can find it
  8. Looks cool mate, shame to cover that subframe up
  9. If your manging to hold WOT in 1st or 2nd then somthing is seriously wrong with it. Your not likely to see full boost in the lower gears due to the short time you spend in them due to them being shorter, and not being able to use full throttle due to wheelies. Best bet get it on a dyno and see what its doing, not only can you check fueling you can have a good look/feel round for boost leaks etc whilst its running and under load as long as dyno operator is cool with that.
  10. Ace, had same issue with mine
  11. Get some tywraps round them for a week, or be forever trying to stick them back down
  12. Just in my experience with ignitechs thats where the sweet spot is on oil boilers. Fully appreciate different brands or different motors/specs will be different. At least its dead easy to mess with and find a sweet spot. Having the capability to mess with the delay makes a huge difference, you can get them working really smoothly even at lower rpm's
  13. I would ask Nick what settings he has for his quickshifter. Iirc 100m/s is about the ideal kill time, your better off altering the the delay time instead
  14. Yeah hes talking absolute shite lol. Shame youve not got the AFR trace on the graph. Peak looks to be around 8k so fairly high up rpm range. GSXR cams probably ideal.
  15. Where was your peak torque? What shape was the curve?
  16. I would stick with what you have and invest 8n some dyno time before dicking about with cams. They need to match where your turbo is working best. You can end up killing low down torque because your cams are too extreme, and also loosing top end power because when the cams work the turbo is done. Ideally you want some dyno time to see exactly whats going on and where you can improve before you dive in. I run a VF23 IHI on mine and 300bhp at 9000rpm is where it stops, but it makes peak torque of 200ft lbs at 6000rpm. Thats with bandit 1200 cams, I tried gsxr 11 ines and it dropped peak torque down, and made no more power because the turbo was already at its limit.
  17. Depends what car it was from, td04 cone with different fittings too
  18. Changing push rod length will do bugger all to affect ratio. The slave will move exactly same distance every time master is pulled. All you need to make sure with rod length is its not too long that its partially disengaging clutch, and not too short that its taking too much of the slaves movement up before it starts acting on the clutch pack. Run 16mm ducati Brembo on mine for years. Is nice and light, but only just has enough displacement to disengae clutch so its crap for fast launches.
  19. Might want to give that a good clean up if its yours mate, looks like its not sealing,
  20. Have a good look in the housing too mate, they are very prone to cracking around the the wastegate, maybe got somthing like that affecting things
  21. They arent VVT, split down to inlet housing, turbine housing and core pretty easily, apart from sometimes being a bit tight with corrosion. Good long penetrating oil soak and gentle persuasion usually sorts it.
  22. Or swap it for shiny bits
  23. Has someone just revved this up in a shed and badly drawn those graphs with a crayon? As Dunc says, take it somewhere that has a clue and they will set it up for you. Looks to me like its rich at the bottom end and lean at the top too. Not the other way round
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