bYmi

Yeah thats something I might try finally with this build.. i did try how much clearancing can be done with ones that had gearbox side damaged, there really is not much (maybe .040”) on the oil passage to clearance until you break through.. and to have reasonable clearance it seemed like you need to grind .100” or more off the bolt only it to clear and have some clearance on top of that. Thats why it got me thinking that something is not right and I left the idea but like what you are saying, that its normal, i might just have to do it IIRC there wasn’t any other clearance problems with such rods

Very light coat of blue Hylomar has been my go to. Very first time i used it a bit too much and it blocked the trans bearing oil passages thank god I had made some other error in the rebuild and had to take the cases apart before starting it up.. had the chance to spot my noobie error

Has anyone facts if genuine Carrillo's clear the crankcases? 'Cos I once bought a set of no-brand "Carrillos" from a local supplier and the 3. cyl rod failed to clear the main gallery to transmission oil passage.. the ARP bolt head interferes.. by the time I just decided to scrap the turboing idea and go all motor with stock rods. Then I later heard from someone that it is normal with this kind of H-Beam rods and that you have to fit the rods to crank and then grind off the bolt head so it clears it... sound a bit dodgy to me... For instance, I think Crower makes nice looking rods with top-down bolts and other variations for better clearance, been thinking about a set of those for my drag bike build (1127M).

Don't have any better pics but -6 from valve cover (where the original also comes) and then from oil cap -8