DAZ

Not in the same league as the Harris,but budget version ,matlock road motorcycle have a Sachs xtc125 frame and swinger at £100.... On eblag came up when I looked at the Harris

Did see one made out of the gerotor set from the innards a cb500 oil pump, don't know if t'was on here or somewhere else though so sorry I can't link to it

If you can't find a second hand o/e system that suits have a look at the delkevic systems, they're relatively inexpensive, fit well and are usually a bigger bore as the o/e system(at least the bandit) is double skinned ,and quite heavy plus the bandit downpipes rot at the collector I had to have mine welded up before I went full system

The ones you've got decent Intake boots for ...... 38's appear to be like rocking horse poop , 36's you can still get new , not sure on the situation for 34's Seriously 36 mk1 bst or the 34s

But at least back then not everyone knew/thought that the old bike at the back of the shed was a classic restoration project an worth 80% of a good tidy runner and you could score a decent bike from the cards in the post office or paper shop window and there were enough engineering firms still about that you could get a mate to do you a *guvvy job* on his dinner break, but generally speaking the past is best viewed with rose tinted glasses *Some places call them foreigners*

Too true

It's all about the torque as I'm sure @Arttu knows, but a gsx750f teapot makes roughly 95/100 hp and so does a stock b12 but the b12 feels more powerful because of the extra torque that 400 or so cc's provide , turbos building boost low down (or spooling) build torque and maybe what you're after and if so you should consider this when choosing your whizzer as like goldy locks too big could result in a laggy motor

Well the gsx-s thingy in a kannatuna cross dessing outfit was about 10k i think but I may be wrong....

Gravel,gravel we couldn't afford gravel,we were lucky to have mud... Cue python-esque Yorkshire men bickering...

The general rule of thumb is each bar of boost gives the n/a bhp i.e. 120bhp engine + 1 bar of boost =240bhp ( though usually there are some "pumping" losses as the turbo acts as a restriction on the exhaust and actual results are often slightly less )

Having read the replies two old sayings spring to mind Speed costs ,how fast can you afford to go ? Fast, Cheap, Reliable, pick which two you want !

Brembo's are over rated in my opinion......

The three things I take away from your question 7/11 you like big engines in chassis that handles better than the one the big engine came out of 1277 strong bottom end flowed head stock valve sizes =might not be all about top end Used on b roads = top end hardly used, all about firing from one corner to the next I reckon the stock cams would be a torque monster in that scenario and would blast out of every corner just fine some may argue that a pair of stage one Yoshi of Kent cams would work great and I'm sure they would,but you may well lose torque you would use for bhp you wouldn't....that's my two penneth Edit : I would rather have an extra 10ft/lb at 6k than 10bhp at 11k but that's my own preference

The you tube vids Ive seen on the dry build theory is that if the bore is heavily oiled then as the cylinder fires then some oil burns off and some varnishes the cyl wall, personally on the few engines I've rebuilt/overhauled I've used a light wipe of oil, and during running in ride/drive normally including plenty of engine braking and they've been fine that's all i can offer

Tbh if it were me and it's not using oil I'd give it 500 miles to settle down do a compression test and see if it's using any oil by then,as for not oiling bores each to there own theories I personally would use a wipe of light oil to ease the pistons in but only a wipe the dry build I think is favoured by racers to ensure ring seal on a bike that's not going to be run in in the traditional sense or see big miles between rebuilds

Hi bio says Hampshire, not whether it's the old or new variety....

Great that you are still out on track enjoying your special spine framed Martin

It should be a easy swap if you are swapping the bare engine,some of the peripheral parts may be slightly different,eg cam cover breather I expect the carbs to be different too but these bits should swap over ok it will be a case of mixing and matching as stuff did change over time,but the basic engine pretty much stayed the same

Kent cams have been going for decades no worries about using they're products as FBOB says gsxr cams used to be cheaper but rare in good nick and sensible money as for Vernier cam sprockets you can have the std ones slotted and if you worry about them coming loose loctite is available in many fetching colours ....

Heard of, but never tried, of people using wide zip ties to compress the rings then snip off when the rings are in the bores.....

I call BS on that, besides those fingers build some real nice bikes

Don't quote me on this,I seem to recall that the rf stem thins out at the top and to use a b12 top yoke required a spacer type sleeve so it would presumably be the reverse in your scenario is the stem is too thick for the rf yoke @wraithhas faster fingers

Brutal,funny as fuck ,but brutal

Genuine 18k should be spot on ,if it's not the guage could it be bore glazing?

No disgrace in binning it in my opinion,if your pushing on, you'll only find the edge when you step over it ,at least your ok the bikes fixable and you know you need a high level link pipe keep it up enjoy you race reports immensely