DAZ

Yes, both @clivegto and @fatblokeonbandit have had good results but if you go down the dot head route be sure to check carb clearance as the ports on the dot heads is "semi" downdraught and consequently tilts the carbs upwards ,I'm not 100% sure but this maybe mitigated by using different intake rubbers as some are shorter than others check @Dezzaexcellent sticky on this subject.. Edit: and if you use the cams from the 750 you'll need to swap the cam wheels to bandit ones to suit your cam chain

The additional compression and better flow would wake it up for sure

The dot head is favoured to put on a stock bottom end because the smaller 750 combustion chamber raises the compression ratio a, 1216 kit (usually listed as 11 or 12 :1 )would raise it too much with the smaller combustion chamber . By proper valve job o mean have the seats recut and valves faced and new genuine valve guide stem seals . In your existing head .As for your cams could they not be reground to a new profile by Kent cams in UK or web cams in USA ? depends where you are based Edit : see you are in Greece so not sure what to advise...

I'd check what the compression would be with a 1216 kit before anything else if that is definitely in your future,what is advertised as say 11:1 would become 12.5:1 with a dot head ,more if it's skimmed just something to bear in mind is there an issue with the stock head? I think if it's ok you maybe better using the std head and spending the cash on a refurb,proper valve job new seals etc jmho

Is the old one destined to spend eternity gathering dust on a shelf at Wee Man towers or is the red herring looking longingly at it......

As @Safra says unless it's a 100% restoration plenty of alternative shocks out there even some of the eblag cheapies can be pretty decent, if you post the length and fittings ,eye or fork someone may be able to recommend a oem replacement

I personally think that the MOT test is there for the "great unwashed" who know bugger all about their vehicles to ensure the worst of the worst are taken off the road till they're acceptable again , if it really was that important it would be stricter and more often, my truck every 6 weeks an inspection , trailers are 10 weeks on double deck and 13 weeks for boxes and curtains

Maybe try some meant for a bandit or teapot to adapt as the ones I've seen usually mount on the engine mounts for at least a couple of the mounting points ?

The gsx400fw is a water cooler but the 600 is an oilcooled engine ,don't know if the engine mounts are the same but if they are then you've got a lot more choice available to you if the 400 is unsalvagable as you've got all the oilcooled range to choose from if not maybe the bandit 400 wc may offer parts for the engine

Thanks for clearing that up @Dezza,strange but wonderful that they offer the same size (34mm RS) carb with 3 different spigot sizes in this age of rationalisation it's so good that a company is still offering choice over a one size fits all approach

Thanks for that ! Knowledge is always welcome, hopefully @Dezza will see this and amend his thread

Hi Mutley ,welcome aboard if you are buying your rs carbs new then have a look @Dezzasticky about inlet rubbers as it says 34/36/38 rs carbs all share the same size 42mm stub so if you've not bought them yet 38s maybe better suited to your 1100 n motor .....

Welcome @DaveV65your in the right place, happy hunting for your GSX

Pinched fuel line ?

Different tanks and taps same issue ,so get some new pipe , the fancy clearish one that's ethanol proof , someone told me old pipes can degrade internally and cause issues. Top to bottom eliminate the possibility cap,vent,tap,hose you know it runs on the auxiliary tank so it shouldn't be carbs Edit it's called tygon hose

It only looks big cos I have small hands

Or the ring end of a 12mm combi spanner ,cos my rubber mallet wouldn't fit in the frame

Well between you and @Gixer1460I think you've covered the likely suspects most likely float jets as Gixxer1460 says ,but if they've not been done in a while a carb strip and (preferably ultrasonic) clean just to remove any gummy varnish and if the fuel tap isn't shutting fully when there's no vacuum to operate the diaphragm then strip and check that over too lastly clean and if necessary de-rust the inside of the tank any debris that makes it through the mesh filter in the tap may impinge on the operation of the tap or carbs....reckon that covers it

Well if you do you'll need to fit a thermostatic switch to control it obviously,but also consider a oil temp display (small digital even built into some of the fancy gauges that do everything thing,revs and gears etc,) just so you could see what's what

Well everybody's opinion will vary ,now the stock 1100f is faired and the cooler will have been sized to allow for that and two passengers,ones with luggage possibly as it was a tourer on a hot day stuck in stop start traffic, so yes you probably could run a smaller cooler but if you do be prepared to upgrade it if it isn't sufficient, I think the gsx600f teapot was quite small if I remember correctly only 9 rows , will it be enough,honestly I don't know, most here tend towards the performance mocal type coolers but maybe not the look you want for your chop

Idle and 1/4 throttle sounds like pilot jets ,pull plugs like Tony says see if they're wet,oily ,dry , if it runs good on the needle and main jet then I wouldn't necessarily jump to the ignition even though the carbs have been cleaned there may still be an issue in them

Fish 1216 Or am I too old

Was only try to be helpful ! , I was lucky enough to have a dad who let me help him maintain cars with him, who had the patience to show me this kind of stuff, I'm quite sure there are others on you tube who could show the OP some basic maintenance stuff if that's what he needs, del boy was an example to try for the basics as they say a picture is worth a thousand words and all that , I didn't know he'd burned himself,because tbh I've not really watched that many of his videos as they are very basic level maintainance stuff, but because they are motorcycle related they show up on my feed now and again ,if you know of someone the OP could watch and learn from then please recommend them

I would say you tube is your friend try delboys garage for basic service type how to video, most of the stuff is fairly normal maintenance stuff, oil change, brakes, chain adjustment Etc, good step by step instructions and advice ,for more specific advice about your bike then ask here ,good luck

If you priced up a 1216 piston kit,bore and hone, gaskets and sundries, flowed head,Kent cams for a 150bhp ish build , a low boost 180bhp + more torque for similar money on a good stock motor sounds worthwhile especially as you could uprate it as finances allow,whereas with conventional tuning it is very much a diminishing return after a certain point but boost, once you've got the better pistons and maybe rods the power potential is quite staggering