DAZ

The way that you're recommissioning this bike shows it's in the right hands, taking the time to go through the bike thoroughly not just a quick service is great to see thanks for the update

It's the tablet and irn bru ..... must need some hp to match that sugar rush

All points made above are valid, also beware of copious amounts of instant gasket,check for mullered fasteners ,if he can't be bothered to change a butchered bolt or buy new gaskets what else has he let slip. As an aside back in the time of dinosaurs when us young uns rode two strokes there was a tuner called Terry Beckett, my mate rebuilt his GT250 and said it was bucket tuned cos there were no parts left in the bucket ......

I would image it could allow some seepage it's not an interference fit after all ,but out of interest how much fuel was in the tank as I'm thinking maybe a full tank would create more "pressure" , I think it's called head weight ,think of a water tank in the loft it give more pressure to the taps downstairs Etc , and maybe the old tap caused enough restriction even on prime to lessen the pressure so that it wasn't an issue Edit2 : I think the bore of a fuel tap is 6-8 mm so area wise you've increased it a lot more than just say 2mm the cross sectional area will have increased by 50% at a guess

Glad you've enjoyed it enough to have a go next year, really enjoyed your race reports

And so it begins......, you'll find no end of "bad" influences on here

Pretty looking bike hope you enjoy it

I know that feeling ,sometimes get me wukkin murds fuddled too

Early 1052 were U703 according to the lists I've seen U704 were possibly 100hp destined for France and Germany as per EU regs of the time , GSX1100G was V718 all the other 11/1200 were designated V7?? Dependent on application Did US or other markets have an 1100 aircooled shafty ? I know we had 650/850/1000's

I can understand why you want to go big bore on the replacement engine for you outfit,but imho I think for your application I would stick to a stock type rebuild,as all the big bore kits seem to hike the compression to around 12/13:1 which with the added load of a chair may be too much, if I were to make any mods it would likely be to find some gsx1100 f cams and lower the gearing to increase the mechanical advantage and keep the rpm in the sweet spot of max torque and hp . Just my opinion and as ever your ride your dime your choice

For your exhaust try Racefit seen a couple of their products in the flesh and they look and sound superb and they do one offs too

Plus you can always adjust the gearing if needed , some seem to think the gsx1100f was the best all round oil cooled lump

Glad the fuzz took the easy route , points will e be gone before you know it , i mean it's 2023 already where did the time go.....I loved 1983 and that doesn't seem so long ago.... sometimes anyway

Thanks for coming back and telling us that you sorted it out

I doubt with just a full system that the pilot jets will need changing as for the mains and needles ideally you'd put it on a Dyno where the afr can be seen to determine what it really needs, jetting carbs over the web is rarely as accurate as an O2 sensor up the tailpipe

Have heard of peeps filling bars with silicone to damp vibes, if it's not the tap to oil pipe issue

My thoughts pretty much echo what @Gixer1460said above only thing I would add is check the length of the dot head valves as the chamber is shallower it may be that the valve stems are longer than the regular 11/1200 valves , as the ports are cast differently I don't see Suzuki San just milling the heads to reduce chamber volume it'll possibly cast shallower and have longer stems ,most all oversize valves I've seen for sale are for 11/1200 heads

What do you call a while ? Can you start it on choke , let it run a couple of minutes whilst putting helmet Etc on ( usually adjusting the choke so the motor doesn't rev excessively ) and ease the choke off ? That's kinda normal, it's not like a fuel injection engine that starts and ticks over straight away

Probably the float valve, might just have a bit of muck holding it open ,might be worn, try a strip and clean of the float bowl area if you want before spending lots of cash, it might work , as @Rijkosays aftermarket stuff can be a lottery though keyster have been around a while

As the oil pressure on these engines is usually very low and you may struggle to find a gauge that reads say 0-15psi I wonder if you could check the flow from say an oil gallery plug either on the head or crankcase,as with the roller cranks flow is the thing, I know that when they were available it used to be a thing fitting 750 pump gears to increase the pressure

If it's just a connection that you think is the issue then remake it so it's up to par ,then if that's not your issue the you need someone with an oil pressure gauge to get a definitive reading of what's happening at various rpm ,it may just be a faulty switch, it maybe the pump, those engines tended to rely on flow rather than pressure but until you get a idea of what the pump is doing then it just speculation

Is that mostly ef/efe ?

Yeah but we all know you're saving the best till last

Ok ok I got it arse about tit .....

White smoke ?!? , I thought that was for a new pope or something seriously though I usually say black for oil, blue/grey fuel, white is water vapour , so has the weather been damp could it just be condensation drying out of the pipe?