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Everything posted by Oilyspanner

  1. I've always used genuine oil filters on my Suzukis over the years, have used other makes on other bikes - but I read this old comparison on some filters. I might fit HiFlo at the next change, I've used them on other bikes with no problems at all, but this info confirms their quality. They've got TuV approval now on all their range, which is rigorous and it confirms they're at least as good as standard units - they're a hell of a lot cheaper too. I haven't found any more recent comparisons or tests, but they're fairly basic, but need to be well made, with good filtration and a good pressure release valve - probably like many I change the oil and filter more often than needed - every 1500 miles ish, I don't think there's any risk at all - unless someone knows different ?! http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/suzuki.shtml
  2. Had to replace the seals on both m/cylinder and slave on mine early this year - caused slight drag, not such nice engagement etc - all sweet now. I had changed the fluid and bled the system, but it didn't make much difference - so I changed the seals, lovely gear change at low speeds again. I'm not sure about the noises though, my main problems were the dragging and poor gear selection around town etc.
  3. That's a lot of torque down low....or 152/153 hp ? Yep, always better to keep the front sprocket as large as possible, it abuses the links less. I bought a fairly cheap JT x ring chain, it wore a bit early on, but it rarely needs adjusting now.....in fact I want it to wear more, then I'll swap it for a 525 and sprockets !
  4. Good point CliveGTO ! a quality 525 chain is used by most modern 1000cc sportsters too I think - so more than able. I use a 530 chain on mine, I was concerned about the ally rear sprocket wearing out too quickly if I went smaller - 530s don't wear too much - do 525 ally sprockets stand up to general use okay ? - not wanting to go off topic, but it sort off goes hand in hand with chain size.
  5. To convert the 750 to clip-ons above top yoke needs the higher top fairing , bracket/headlight and side fairings too - else the higher bars will hit the fairing. There are some clip-ons that mount under the top yoke, but give some lift, 50mm, if these fit okay that might be a solution. The 1100 is torquey and the 750 very revvy - I wouldn't mind an oil cooled 884cc GSXR though, would be worth the crouch and achy wrists
  6. I've got 2 JMT Li batteries Jp85, had them a few years now, never a problem - maybe there was a charging problem with smoking battery ? KTM use the JMT Li batteries on some of their bikes, if there was a problem they'd drop them I think - plus there will be many thousands in use to get good feedback/or bad feedback if they weren't good. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another when the next lead/acid battery dies.
  7. Cheers Clive ! go info. I think it's just the time/money it would take to lighten the forged pistons - forged pistons are stronger than cast ones and can be made to be lighter/ of the extra strength - 10 % extra weight over standard is a lot, it'll eat into the safety margin built in by Suzuki - I know it's just the way Iam, but it just grates on me knowing the pistons could be made to add no extra stress on rods/bearings and crank, instead they'll remove a chunk of safety margin at peak revs, then you have to spend more money on upgrading your crank to get some margin back... Here's the photo of the Wossner pistons that got me interested.
  8. Wiseco 80mm and 81mm 12:1 seem to be much the same avg. 315.6 incl. gudgeon pin (78g) + rings 15.4 g = 331g ….. bare piston 237.6g avg. - haven't got retainer clip weight. Std 78mm 10:1 pistons with rings and g.pin (71g) = 299.8g avg incl one g.pin clip. Bare piston 213g. JE pistons - from their figures - bare piston both 80mm and 81mm 234g - listed as 13:1 comp. ratio …..their 82mm piston is listed as 238g (1246cc kit) Unfortunately Nick Pepper hasn't replied yet, said he had another batch coming in a couple of weeks ago and he'd weigh one and get back to me - I've been in touch since, but nothing, could've been good for Wossner if they were 15/20g lighter than the American pistons, that would be a big reduction in force at high revs. So sorry this thread's landed on it's ass ! thought it'd be useful info for anyone going through their top-end - if anything happens I'll update this thread
  9. The main difference is the longer forks on the 1100's and the clip-ons mounted above the top yoke, which make it more comfortable than the racer crouch of the 750. The difference between Slingshot frames isn't like Slabbies, where the frame is a lot lighter. The smallest Slingshot frames are the 750K/J models (had the shorter, short stroke motor) - the 1100M/N models have a wider more comfortable seat. I find my 1100N quite comfortable, a comfortable slouched position ! Using after market clip-ons allows you to angle the bars the way you feel most comfortable. My bike earns it's living as a sports bike, but is equally happy cruising along back lanes.
  10. On race bikes they liked to cool the combustion for more consistent power, oilers used to lose a fair percentage of their early race power later in a race - the net average oil temperature will be the same which ever way round you put them though. On the big bore Yoshi racers they used 3 even 4 oil coolers, even had them burning methanol to keep the temps down ! My initial thought with that racer was - that engine sits high in the frame and look at that suspension linkage ! The first number in oil specs is the cold figure, diesels use 0W40 and 5w40 etc to ease cold running (thinner oil) and help mpg. I reckon your best bet is to run another cooler as has been said, your oil pump will be fine. As Dupersunc has said, a fan is only good at low speed to pass some air around when the temperature always creeps up.
  11. When engines get really hot they don't run well and cause vibration amongst other things. The 100 degree temp. in the sump is the coolest the oil gets from it's return from the cooler, it'll be a lot higher in the rest of the engine - use the 100 degrees sump temp as a marker to pull over and let the engine cool down from now on. If our engines had more electronics they'd retard the spark etc and if they had fans, they'd been on long before. 300V is lovely stuff, nothing wrong there. I had a big bore gsxr750wt back in '96, the tuners hadn't reconnected the fan lead, stuck in a queue going into Brands Hatch the thing began to run like shit, I pulled over, turned if off and found the loose connector - soon as the temperature came down, all was well - it felt and sounded pretty sick before I turned it off - could've blown the head gasket being a w/c. Even pretty stock oilers can over heat in traffic during hot weather - tuned bikes are always prone to over-heating. The time to be worried is when the bike doesn't feel/run as normal once cooled down. You'll need to change the oil often if the engine frequently over-heats.
  12. Have been using JMT LiFePO4 batteries for a number of years, not one problem - pays to make sure your charging system doesn't go regularly above 15v, this info is in the bumph that comes with the batteries. The three best things about Li batteries are the lack of weight (feels like an empty plastic box !), smaller size and unlike acid/acid.gel batteries take way over a year to show any lowering of power when left. They don't really need charging, I bought a clever charger that does any battery, but even the spare one I've got on a shelf hasn't really needed topping up with charge - I only use that battery to fire up one of the bikes I'm working on at the time. As J1B says they mustn't be allowed to fully drain, as they won't recover - it'll take a long time though. The JMT batteries aren't expensive and are used on KTM bikes - if you buy any decent named make you'll be fine I reckon.
  13. Your engine is running lean, covering the filters and it runs better proves this. As Duncan says, pilot system and air passageways have to be very clean. Pilot system affects tick-over and gentle cruising, the needle controls the bulk of normal riding - as you've fitted pods, try lifting the needles to make that area richer - if you're on middle clip, go to the bottom position and try that, it should be closer. The main jet only really comes into play at higher revs and with large throttle openings. It's hard to give good advice from afar, as you have to assume that everything else is working as it should - good spark etc. Hopefully the needle adjustment will help and allow you to run the bike on the dyno
  14. Nick at Suzuki Performance Spares got back to me about Wossner pistons' weight, he has a batch coming in on Weds and will weigh them for me - which is good of him, he could've just said' it doesn't say the weight on the spec sheet'. I'll post the weight on here when I get the e-mail, it'll be well worth considering a lighter big bore piston if you use high revs a lot. - a good forged piston is always going to be strong, so a lighter forged piston will be better for pick-up, reducing stress on rods, g.pin, bearings and crank - If the Wossner pistons are near std weight they must be worth trying - I'll use a set in the next engine I work on if they are, would be smoother at cruise speeds too.... probably find out they weigh the same as all the rest
  15. I think the rev limiter was upped on the 1127R models, the 1052R didn't rev as high (as stock either model didn't rev out) - the pistons of the 1052 and 1127 weigh the same, so extra force was added to 1127 cranks with the added revs. Took my big bore to 10,700 by accident, it was accelerating well in 3rd and I missed the change-up light, over revving would be a problem on track. The Wiseco pistons I used were very close in weight as a set at least, just too heavy, JE pistons are 2g lighter from their figures. Balancing will help, but dropping piston assembly weight would be a even more helpful for high revs and then get it all balanced. Haven't got a clue whose good though. I've seen Wossner pistons that have a lighter design, I'm going to ask about their weight - they have tapered gudgeon pins too, which will drop weight. Wossner are well known in the car world, not so much with bikes though - anyone tried them ?
  16. This thread made me think - which is always dangerous... I made a comment on J1B's thread once, that I was surprised that forged big bore pistons were as heavy as they are, including gudgeon pin, 30/31 g heavier - that's 10 % heavier than standard ! - forces from acceleration/deceleration increase to the square, so the extra force on the crank/bearings is double that of standard (brain's not as good as it was, but I think that's right) - it's surprising there aren't more problems, there must be many thousands of big bore oilers out there and not many problems. The standard tacho lies it's cock off at high revs though, that probably makes people change up earlier. If my F = MA calculation is correct, the big bore piston extra force at the std rev limiter (true 10800), is like setting a std pistoned 1127/1157 limit to just over 11,300 revs - something like 12,800 on a standard tacho !! I've got an amber change up light at true 10,200 and a red one at 10,500, as said the power is dropping by then anyway. Would like to drop the piston assembly to standard weight though, then use a true 11,000 as a limit and all should safe - Suzuki built a decent safety margin in it seems.
  17. I expect B12 plug caps are the same as 1100K/L/M/N ones - my N ones were 82mm(ish) from tip of rubber plug surround, to upper rubber shroud that stops rubbish falling down the plug well. That top rubber shroud would probably need to be swapped for the oil cooled one anyway, this stops vibration pulling the coil off the plug, it needs to be snug. My primary circuit of the stick coils in series measured within the Slingshots' tolerance - it was quite a long time ago, but 2.6/2.7 ohms if I remember correctly - the standard coils have quite a wide window 2.4 - 3.2 tolerance, so the ignitor has never played up - B12 coils are much the same as Slingshot ones I think. Only two things have really caused a problem since my conversion, the clip that locates on the threaded spark plug tip on one coil was weak and vibrated loose - I replaced it. The other problem was that a digital dash I had needed a wire feed from the coil signal to work the displayed revs, the stick coils' spark was affected at lower revs - I bought a different dash that could use the normal feed from the ignitor and the motor was lovely and crisp again. I love the stick coils, it declutters the area above the engine (makes servicing easier) and it saved weight - I was putting my bike on a weight loss program at the time....but the best thing is that it just works so well.
  18. I took it you had the axle/wheel too Sam ? The axle length , wheel and spacers would dictate the yoke width - or the yoke width would do the reverse I suppose ! Like Swiss, I'm not sure what you mean about 3mm difference.. are you thinking of using the std wheel/discs ?
  19. As long as the forks are the same length (axle centre to fork cap), or longer - modern sports bike forks/brakes are a great move. The fork centres may be different(more modern bikes don't have wheel driven speedo drive), so you might need to change the yokes, or swap stems. The 750L/M forks are pretty decent when serviced and the Nissin calipers are pretty decent too with decent pads (as long as the pistons are free moving) - for not very much money the std front end can work very nicely - thought I'd add this, it depends on your pockets and what you want of your bike - you'll need a good shock to work well with a good front to get the best out of it, front and rear have to work well together if you want good handling.
  20. I think this has gone off topic ! A dot head will work well, or a skimmed 1157 head will work well. The dot head on a B12 engine works nicely as has been said - quite a few dot heads have a crack/cracks in the inlet/exhaust divider, this is very rare in 1052/1127/1157 heads, it's thicker on the big bikes heads. If you bump up the comp. a touch on the 1157 head it'll give similar results to a dot head - the dot head has slightly raised inlet floor too, it helps open up the circumference of the inlet valve a touch. If you skim the head the check the piston to valve clearance and squish clearances, there's more scope on the big engine's head - as has been said, be very careful if you're thinking about skimming the dot head. I recognise that head with the revised inlet tracts and exhaust spigots, it had larger valves and a shit load of port work done on it the port floor was epoxied too - it was a drag bike's head - not much in common with a standard head. . . . You don't want sharp edges in the chamber or on piston crown, I think Dunc meant not to have a big radius on the edge of the squish area, just smooth the edge. Some valve de-shrouding reaps rewards too, it makes the most of the valve's size. I'm only a keen amateur who wishes he had some of the machining and welding skills of some of the other members on here ! Keep us up to date though
  21. Welcome to the site Sam. 36mm carbs are very good, flow well, easy to set-up and work well with dual pod filters - plus they're smaller than the 40mm carbs, so will fit in the under tank space more easily. Unless you're having the head flowed etc you'll not be stunting the top-end much at all, but you will have stronger power through the normal rev range - a couple of hp at the very top isn't much use on the road, more power and torque everywhere else is far more useful.
  22. One thing to be careful of Dezza - Although it's a few years back when I converted my bike, from what I remember the earlier K series engine 600/750/1000 all had very similar stick coils (1000 had that base engine unit to K8, 600/750 to K5) - the newer engines I believe had lower resistance coils, which wouldn't be suitable. The GSR600 used the same rated coils as the earlier K's too - as did the 1st gen Hayabusa (don't know about the gen 2). I certainly remember that the 1000K9 - onwards coils were differently rated.
  23. Never found out for sure if it was a 748/749/1052 or 1127 engine, what state the engine's in etc ??? - thought the spacer idea was a good one, or take some timing out of it, add some octane booster …… maybe the engine had hi-comp pistons in it and had got 'nibbled' - hard to help with 1/4 the info though
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