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Oilyspanner

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Everything posted by Oilyspanner

  1. I'd check what jets you've got SFC, 148 would be a dynojet size, not mikuni, it might have d.jet kit fitted - you can only use their jets with their needle jet and needle, they flow differently to the mikuni jets.Mixing d.j. and mikuni is a nightmare, a real arse ache ! Most running is on pilot and needles - does it run okay at tick-over, low speed cruise and moderate throttle opening and revs ? Check what jets are in the carbs because that changes any settings given. Mikuni jets have the square in a square logo on them, jets go up in 2.5 sizes (ml per minute) - I think dynojet normally have dj plus numbers on them and sizes go up in twos (based on measured diameters and not flow).
  2. Fitting is no problem as dimension wise they're the same. As I remember the headers and collectors are the same, the 1100 m/n (41c model) had altered silencers internally, maybe to work with the big 40mm cv carbs. When I first got my 1100n it had one 40c silencer and one 41c, the performance was fairly smooth but it can't have made more than 110hp - at the time there were rumours that 40c silencers didn't work well with the 41c bike, this may be inaccurate - but certainly my bike wasn't very impressive with a mix of cans - also I don't know how the 40c (k/l) performs with 41c cans, or a mix of. One thing I do know is that when I fitted an after market system it felt 50% more powerful and a lot lighter - I liked the look of the twin cans to start with, but I prefer what the bike offers with a decent system. The uk bikes had restrictive silencers and when new made 116 to 118 rwhp - with unrestricted market silencers the k and l made 6 to 10hp more and the m/n more than that - performance bikes put some usa silencers on an 1100n in 1992 and it made a little over 130 hp and 83 ft/lb of torque - this was a good example, they vary.
  3. There isn't a paint code for the R 's engine, there's a number of close colours, if you do a search there's been a load of threads. I bought an exact match from RS motorbike paint - it cost a lot, I was feeling flush so bought it - is it much better than a few other rattle cans, it's very good but I could've easily lived with a pretty close match at 1/5 the price.
  4. Once the engine isn't running you'll only have the small amount of oil run out, the oil will return to the sump, away from the ignition pick-up cover. I'm with Weeman, the 4 pot Nissins are good calipers and the correct type of vintage too. Check how well the pistons move when you use two thumbs on them, old calipers tend to not move very well - do this before going for the m/cylinder.
  5. If there's enough HT cable, snip 6/7mm off the end and the plug cap should screw on again - there's normally enough cable to comfortably do this. The ignition advancer does just that, it advances the spark by 3 - 5 degrees compared with the crank position, it makes the pick up a bit perkier and adds 1 or 2 hp in the mid-range. Nissin calipers were used on the Slingshots, not Tokico ...so don't know. Check that the brake line fittings aren't aluminium, they look like anodised items - they do fail, unlike stainless ones. I like to save weight on my favourite bike, but I won't fit ally fittings on my brakes, they were all the rage in the 90's, but they break easily - you don't want your brakes to break...….Ti is good, stainless is good. A little oil is normal in the ignition cover, there's a vent to the crank - you can see it if you crouch down, it's not big.
  6. Length is 330mm Bud - mine's on my bike, but by putting a barbeque skewer through the middle and measuring that was easy enough ! obviously width is as Wraith says.
  7. 2 x fuel lines, 2 x vents (1 between carb 1 and 2 and the other between 3 and 4), the other line on the inlet rubber is the vacuum source for the fuel tap.
  8. Read up how to dial in the cams too, you'll need to buy adjustable cam sprockets, or slot the originals - you can just use the standard markings to set the cams, but a couple of degrees on the inlet cam can alter the power curve. As the chaps have said, know what you'll need to do, perhaps make a list of the steps. Take your time, don't remove very much material, the ports just need cleaning up and slight reshaping. Cancel this - George 1100 has just posted a good long reply. Take your time When using more radical cams you have to check piston to valve clearance and they hammer the valve train more as per G1100
  9. You can Zinc plate pretty easily at home, have done a few bits recently - plenty of 'how to' videos on youtube, zinc heals chips in itself too......wish I'd been doing coatings when I had my engine apart, I rust treat my tubes, under coated and did a top coat on mine - still look good.
  10. Loving the build Could you do me a big favour, I've been trying to find out the piston weight of the Wossner pistons for almost a year, but have had no success. Their pistons are a slightly different design to the American pistons which are 10 % heavier than stock. I believe they also taper bore the gudgeon pins as well, like the stock pins - the American ones aren't and are 10 % heavier !! I'm hoping the W. pistons are lighter, if so I'll use some on a future project. 80,81 and 82mm pistons normally weigh much the same. Wiseco pistons weighed 237.5g and the g.pins were 78g average. You might've buttoned it all up now of course ! Cheers
  11. The last time I put the engine back in I put the engine on a wooden frame, sat that on a platform Jack and that sat on a skateboard ... it worked a treat, the skateboard allowed me to move the engine around to line up the mounts - the lower rear mount with the spacer can be a pig.
  12. https://sites.google.com/site/suzukitechnical/suzuki/valvesizes Further cam details below the valve sizes/ lift details on the left margin. There's a stack of good stuff in the vault section - for tuning, mods etc tap on the OldSkool Suzuki info at the top of the page , the vault section is on the lower right margin.
  13. As Dezza says, that's a big m.c., standard's a 14mm I think, shouldn't make much odds though. Check the slave cylinder, could be corroded or have a leaky seal.
  14. Good stuff FBOB - even the 750l/m forks are a decent saving on the 740mm (axle centre to cap top)1100 L/M/N forks, mine weighed just over 5.1 kg. The 750 K8/L0 forks I added are 734mm long and weigh 3.75 kg , the 1kilo springs were spot-on for my lightened bike and svelte 90kg self. Hope the missus has forgiven you for the oil spillages, it could be worse . . . . mine wasn't happy with the oil in the dish washer/parts washer !
  15. Hello - need more details, is the bike std., what's been altered etc really hard to know if ignitor box is fine, sometimes you only know because the bike runs fine with a different unit. The photo would also help to see what might be at fault.
  16. That's a lovely looking N ! - just saying …...
  17. On the bolts etc - if it's highly stressed I've left them as steel, otherwise Ti, if lightly stressed - ally and even nylon on some (nylon bolts don't vibrate out either and weigh next to nothing). Ti works out expensive, but over a few years I've changed over most of my bolts outside of the engine internals with Ti, Al and nylon, but I doubt I've saved more than a kilo or so - my Lithium battery and ally holder saved slightly over 4 kg alone, for a cost of £90, you've got to make sure your charging system is in spec. with a Li battery. You can run the bike total loss on the track and refit the alternator for the road, worth a couple of hp and saves some weight.
  18. The lithium battery and ally holder are very easy and not that costly (easy to make an aluminium holder using pop rivets/low temp welding rods). All the things that have been said, plus reduce all revolving mass you can, ally sprocket, smaller chain, lighter discs and make sure the inner wheel bearing spacers are aluminium to drop a bit of weight - plus use lightweight construction tyres.
  19. The lack of fins/surface area will cause very hot running, the fins do a lot of the cooling - oil is reluctant to release it's heat, although the big oil cooler helps a lot, you'd need one 4 to 5 times larger than a w/c radiator to cool an engine without fins.
  20. She's a looker, hopefully you'll use it more this coming year ?
  21. You can barely see it Mr B, but it's down below the positive terminal, fairly snug and secured to the plastic shroud/cover/surround.
  22. I shifted mine to the inside left of the plastic outer shroud around the battery tray/box - although I made a light ally battery box for the Li battery, so don't know if there's room beside the standard box/tray/holder/thing ! I'll see if I can take a photo later.
  23. Our engines are limited by the head, if you increase the capacity and not do head-work you won't gain that much power, it'll develop more torque at lower revs and have more peak torque, but power will drop sharply after peak torque. Fitting a turbo will force the air into the engine getting around head design, larger valves and careful flow work will yield far more power than stroker crank or huge bore. The old high output engines did have large capacity, but they had very special heads too - along with machining to lower pumping losses and venting etc. A 1340 engine with little or no head-work will put out in the 140s hp , it'll make a load of bottom-end and mid-range power though (they feel very grunty) - it depends what you want. Some engines have heads that can easily feed a larger engine and you get big gains with less than a 100cc extra displacement - ours don't, the heads need some work to give big gains. If you want a really grunty motor just increase the capacity, the more the better. If you want a really impressive motor spend most of your time on the head (and money !) ,plus a high comp. big bore - if you want to blow your socks off, fit a turbo …….it's a long winter, so the plenty of time to get work done.
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