Oilyspanner

There's several types of Nitron, the ntr1 doesn't have a remote res. It works really well, I had that one first. I've since bought their fancy race one, that has a fixed reservoir - it came up second-hand , it had been on a race gsxr600L4 - I had to swap the bottom link to the clevis type link - this is why I know about the 600/750 shocks _ the spring rate is suitable too. The 1000k5 is very long as I remember, 330mm or more I think, I'm sure there's a swaps thread in the vault maybe ? You can make shocks fit with different length linkage rods/dog bones, but if you go too far the main linkage angle changes, so the shock doesn't work as well. Anything works better than a shock with no damping though.

Something I did to quickly work out true speed in each gear _ this is for gsxr1100 k-n and b1200 Quick calculation helper numbers. 1st gear 0.25381 2nd gear 0.37099 3rd gear 0.4841 4th gear 0.58182 5th gear 0.66275 Then measure rear wheel circumference in inches - you multiply with this number. work out final gear ratio, you divide the number by this. This give mph per 1000 rpm. Often used final gears and ratios 14 : 48 = 3.43 15 : 48 = 3.2 15 : 47 = 3.1333 15 : 46 = 3.0667 15 : 45 = 3 Here's 4th gear speed for my bike for example. 0.58182 ÷ 3.0667 × 79.5 inches = 15.08 mph per 1000 revs For 5th 0.66275 ÷ 3.0667 × 79.5 = 17.18 mph per 1000 rpm All I did was work out most of the calculation minus final drive and tyre circumference , I just like working things out .... hopefully someone will find it useful too.

I bought a Nitron shock for my 1100n, best thing I did early in my ownership of my bike - any decent shock will make a big difference. The standard shock is only 312mm eye to eye, a bit longer is good - the gsxr600/750k6/7 shock is 320mm long , has good spring weight and the correct fitting at the bottom, the later shocks have an eye at the bottom link.

The angle of your swingarm looks greater than mine. I've got an 1100N, with gsxr750 k9 forks, 750L2 wheels and a Nitron race shock - I kept the std swingarm and linkage, so a few similar things. I've 12mm of static sag on the rear - the amount the shock compresses due to the bike's weight, if you have next to no static sag, ie the shock is near topped out all the time. Lift the rear of the bike at rest and there should be some movement until the shock is topped out. The shock has a 475lb spring on it now, the 500lb/inch spring only worked when I was really tramping on. The forks still have the std springs in them and have 30mm of sag, I think the 750k7 had .95kg springs in them, the 1100's were around .75kg, so plenty firm enough. My bike is 96lb lighter than it was and handles really well, feedback is great front and rear, they can handle really well. I expect it's just in the set-up

You'll have a power delivery full of holes, that was my experience trying to make my 40mm carbs work without the airbox - I used the std velocity stacks with ramair filters squeezed over the ends, I even had a factorypro kit for this conversion …. factorypro made the kit to work with k and N dual filters - still think the airbox is needed, or some sort of airbox to make the 40s work well. I like a challenge and thought the weight saving doing away with the airbox would be a good idea … I failed. The bike needed 155 or 157.5 main jets to pull well up top - still not as good at any point as the airbox, pipercross filter, 145 mains, special needles and 40 pilots I have now - sorry sfc, it won't be easy. Flatslides are pretty easy to set-up for many altered filter/no filter stuff. Oily

She looks mighty fine Dezza ! Such a good looking frame, lovely quality - unfortunately Captain's magnum is probably the closest I'll get !!

Main benefit is as already said - makes space under the tank, weigh less and it's easy to 'clear the decks' when you do valve clearances. Did mine quite a few years ago, zero problems.

Welcome to the site. Just 4900 miles ? Probably a typo. Have you looked at the plugs - a low speed running problem will show on the plugs, normally sooty. You say you replaced all jets, does this include the needle jets ? Check your plugs to narrow down the problem, then you can move in the right direction.

Got to add some fairly recent findings on this subject. I had my spacers shaped like minipower's (and variants of) before I bought Jon's spacers. I thought my needle jets were fine and initially my low/mid-range was rich with the new ally spacers - I milled .8mm off the spacers and got a good set-up ….. but this year whilst working on my needle tapers etc, it was obvious something wasn't right - turns out that 2 of the needle jets were pretty worn and the other 2 weren't in great shape. It's very easy to not notice the wear, they look fairly round, but they don't meter the fuel very well - especially if you increase inlet velocity with a big bore and flow work. Now with in spec needle jets, my own needles and Jon's spacers I have massive mid-range and perfect manners at idle and cruise. With standard spacers or modified ones, the needle jets will wear - I reckon my must've taken a few thousand miles before causing problems. The standard set-up is shite ! the needle either leans against the leading edge or wobbles about. Looking back I should checked the needle jets more thoroughly - I wasted so much time chasing my tail !

Ah, that'll be the turboed ones ! Maybe one day

A lovely bike and probably the best colour slingy, hmmm, need to get one !

Glad you did the install right ie. fit the retracted mechanism first and then fit the spring and bolt last - else the plunger can over extend whilst fitting it, once too tight that's it, it can't go back ! I changed my spring 2 or 3 years ago too, it was shorter as well - the spring costs very little, so good thing to do.

It may be the clutch, but the purging of the fluid is a quick and easy thing to do - CliveGTO's - gunked up inside the cover is another good one to check, nice and easy to resolve - if one of those works then happy days ! …… if not it will be time to open the clutch case and taking the clutch apart - even that's not too bad, just the clutch basket holding tool and the centre nut are tricky, the rest is easy enough - if it is the clutch, then at least the actuation side has been serviced !

The 1100F has a hydraulic clutch I think, it's worth bleeding some new dot 4/4.1 fluid through the system to remove any air/water in the fluid - the slave cylinder doesn't move the clutch rod that far, so anything that reduces the movement can cause the clutch not to disengage. Clutches tend to get grabby when hot to make things worse. Worth flushing the old fluid through before you go any further.

If the other electrics work that are negatively linked to the engine/frame, then all should be good. I've had a couple of problems in the past that were caused by the low tension wires at the coil flag terminals fracturing - sometimes the spark was good and other times I had no spark when the wire moved, the plastic sheathing hid the break in the copper wires underneath - it might not be this, but worth a check. The wire on the flag terminals that attaches to the coils get twisted a lot when putting them on and off, causing fatigue/fracture. I checked for continuity by disconnecting the ignitor connector, linking each end with the multi tester and wiggling the wire - continuity kept disappearing - the break was just before the crimp. Hope you find the fault.

That's a proper super naked - nice work

I'd check what jets you've got SFC, 148 would be a dynojet size, not mikuni, it might have d.jet kit fitted - you can only use their jets with their needle jet and needle, they flow differently to the mikuni jets.Mixing d.j. and mikuni is a nightmare, a real arse ache ! Most running is on pilot and needles - does it run okay at tick-over, low speed cruise and moderate throttle opening and revs ? Check what jets are in the carbs because that changes any settings given. Mikuni jets have the square in a square logo on them, jets go up in 2.5 sizes (ml per minute) - I think dynojet normally have dj plus numbers on them and sizes go up in twos (based on measured diameters and not flow).

Fitting is no problem as dimension wise they're the same. As I remember the headers and collectors are the same, the 1100 m/n (41c model) had altered silencers internally, maybe to work with the big 40mm cv carbs. When I first got my 1100n it had one 40c silencer and one 41c, the performance was fairly smooth but it can't have made more than 110hp - at the time there were rumours that 40c silencers didn't work well with the 41c bike, this may be inaccurate - but certainly my bike wasn't very impressive with a mix of cans - also I don't know how the 40c (k/l) performs with 41c cans, or a mix of. One thing I do know is that when I fitted an after market system it felt 50% more powerful and a lot lighter - I liked the look of the twin cans to start with, but I prefer what the bike offers with a decent system. The uk bikes had restrictive silencers and when new made 116 to 118 rwhp - with unrestricted market silencers the k and l made 6 to 10hp more and the m/n more than that - performance bikes put some usa silencers on an 1100n in 1992 and it made a little over 130 hp and 83 ft/lb of torque - this was a good example, they vary.

There isn't a paint code for the R 's engine, there's a number of close colours, if you do a search there's been a load of threads. I bought an exact match from RS motorbike paint - it cost a lot, I was feeling flush so bought it - is it much better than a few other rattle cans, it's very good but I could've easily lived with a pretty close match at 1/5 the price.

Once the engine isn't running you'll only have the small amount of oil run out, the oil will return to the sump, away from the ignition pick-up cover. I'm with Weeman, the 4 pot Nissins are good calipers and the correct type of vintage too. Check how well the pistons move when you use two thumbs on them, old calipers tend to not move very well - do this before going for the m/cylinder.

If there's enough HT cable, snip 6/7mm off the end and the plug cap should screw on again - there's normally enough cable to comfortably do this. The ignition advancer does just that, it advances the spark by 3 - 5 degrees compared with the crank position, it makes the pick up a bit perkier and adds 1 or 2 hp in the mid-range. Nissin calipers were used on the Slingshots, not Tokico ...so don't know. Check that the brake line fittings aren't aluminium, they look like anodised items - they do fail, unlike stainless ones. I like to save weight on my favourite bike, but I won't fit ally fittings on my brakes, they were all the rage in the 90's, but they break easily - you don't want your brakes to break...….Ti is good, stainless is good. A little oil is normal in the ignition cover, there's a vent to the crank - you can see it if you crouch down, it's not big.

Length is 330mm Bud - mine's on my bike, but by putting a barbeque skewer through the middle and measuring that was easy enough ! obviously width is as Wraith says.

2 x fuel lines, 2 x vents (1 between carb 1 and 2 and the other between 3 and 4), the other line on the inlet rubber is the vacuum source for the fuel tap.

Nice bit of bling mister

Read up how to dial in the cams too, you'll need to buy adjustable cam sprockets, or slot the originals - you can just use the standard markings to set the cams, but a couple of degrees on the inlet cam can alter the power curve. As the chaps have said, know what you'll need to do, perhaps make a list of the steps. Take your time, don't remove very much material, the ports just need cleaning up and slight reshaping. Cancel this - George 1100 has just posted a good long reply. Take your time When using more radical cams you have to check piston to valve clearance and they hammer the valve train more as per G1100