Oilyspanner

Hi - the two types of 750 engine have different sized big ends and small ends, so you can't swap cranks/rods/pistons. The short stroke heads fits 1052/1127/1157 block, but cam chain tunnel is wrong for the long stroke 750. Perhaps with machining, specially made rods etc you can put the parts together, but as standard they won't match up. Maybe someone has done the alterations and will see your post, I haven't heard anything though - good luck though.

Just wondering, what project you got on the go Jon ? I don't think this is for your 1246 ? I love my Nitron shock, real quality damping, best quality shock for the money - Had looked at a GSXR750 K6-L0 shock, which fits, working stroke is about the same and has high /low speed comp. damping (my forks have this and it works well)- but to get the same level of fade free damping I'd need to spend a wedge on a re-working of valving, plus get a spring to suit. I bought a Faulkner's spring for £34.99 delivered and Nitron works superbly again (bike's lost 100lb and spring too stiff, the reason I looked around for options)- still want their top of the range unit though.... next year.

Interesting points about the location, does pay to check - I did measure the clearance, the sensor sits 6mm+ above the point where the shock would be bottomed out. Akrapovic obviously do their homework, the rear pipe work is just out of harms way at full compression, the down pipes have touched down though... but I have mucked around with stance. If I had to go up over a high kerb I'd have to go careful - I live out in the sticks, so no speed bumps and the fairing/exhaust have to ground down 5mm before reaching the sensor - have touched the lower fairing down when in a corner being silly, but the centre point of sump would've been well out of the way.

I've got a sensor in a sump plug adaptor, it gives a cool temperature reading there (close to oil cooler return) - mid 60's- 70's when out riding generally, goes up quickly in town, but drops quickly when you get moving again. I know that if the oil gets hot in the sump the engine is damn hot, but if you keep moving the temp is pretty well controlled. You can put an adaptor in the oil galley plug down by the bottom frame rail. Anywhere close to the head will give you a high reading - but I just find around the sump area convenient.

Both those bikes mentioned have cartridge forks - Suzuki were the first to fit cartridge forks on a mainstream bike with the 1988 GSXR750J and the first with usd forks in 1990 (750/1100L) - Suzuki were advanced thinking ! The Slabbies had damper rod forks . The Showa 750 usd forks were a nicer fork than the1100's Kayaba, but the 1100 forks were impressively strong and can take loads of abuse.

The only sure way of calculating valve lift is with a dial gauge FJD - there's tolerances/slop between the cam and valve, this would make any lobe and follower ratio type calculation inaccurate. I don't know which cams you've got, but the inlet lobes especially are very low, the GSXR's are all 33.5 to 33.9mm range ?? (even GSX-F are much bigger) The inlet lobes should be larger than the exhaust's. They could be Japanese market cams, or some low power market ones, but the inlets should still be larger than the exhaust lobes..... I expect someone on here has come across something similar - I wouldn't want to fit those into one of my motors though Bud ! - maybe in 30 years..... ps - the cams aren't the normal colour either are they, very silver looking.

If you're going to use filters the 38's will be better - the 40's need an airbox to work well, you get dips in the delivery without the airbox, I tried for a while with the Factory kit. The 40's work really well with the airbox and free flowing filter, then jetted to suit. The 38's work well with or without an airbox, still need to put a bit of work in to make them work nicely, but it's far easier.

It's a power jet as Jaydee says, they're a press fit, they had a blind jet (#0) over here and you need an airbox for them to work properly - can't see a car having use for them … easy enough to get the carbs working and 38's are good - need to get rid of the metal tee's on the fuel feeds Rick, they'll heat up the fuel going into the float bowls - been there and done that !

Good point, the US and A 1990 750/1100 models kept to rwu forks, unlike every other market - cost advantage ? I have spotted a few spring rates that were a bit off, but most are right I think, it's useful though.

According to the Race Tech site the spring length and diameter are the same. 1100 engines always need slightly firmer springs, the engine doesn't weigh too much more, but combined with greater weight transfer on the over-run and acceleration, weight transfer is greater - but everyone rides differently and has different expectations.

I'm full of semi useless info and facts..... I can sort of see how Clive arrived at his thinking , the F was more powerful than std 1052s- plus : The 1100f didn't have any restrictions unlike the GSXR1100L/M/N, but if you fitted a full system (or non restricted silencers)to all of them, the 1100f would produce less peak power. In unrestricted form, the M and N were the most powerful oc bikes with their 40mm carbs and slightly altered head - the 1100K/L were the gruntiest GSXRs - all would in their natural state produce more peak torque and hp compared with the 1100f - the 1100F always produced a lovely curve though. The early 90's restrictions were a waste of time/fuel and laughable given the 200hp techno things you can buy now ! The 1100K didn't have restricted silencers when they came out and it's why most remember it being the most powerful oiler - the silencers have different part numbers. The restricted silencers got an extra baffle plate which cocked up the power delivery. I remember that the 1100K's silencers were 40c0 and 1 (I think), the 1100L went to 40c4 silencers - there are probably restorers rebuilding a lovely GSXR1100L, look up to see what silencers they should have and hamstring the bike with the 40c4 jobbies - better with the K's 40c0s. The 1100M/N have 41c0/1 silencers - when I originally got my 1100N it had one correct silencer and one from an 1100L, the bike was shite with them - fitted a race system, what a huge difference, these bikes love a decent exhaust. I'm off to light my pipe and pop on my tartan slippers now !

? ? ? GSXR front end onto a Bandit, or Bandit front end onto a GSXR, or GSXR onto Bandit and what fits onto the GSXR in it's place ? Not sure what you're asking speedy89 - perhaps I need more beer . . . . !

The GSX1100F motors are good units, the cams may not be quite the same as the GSXR ones, but they give a good combination of bottom end and top end. The helical primary gear isn't an issue for a non turbo bike. Besides the engine is ripe for transplanting !

Does look like a Gs650GT tank, they hold about 3 gallons, 13/14 litres, the cap is off centre like yours. Your fuel consumption is poor, could be running rich after fitting the pod filters and jetting - you're getting about 33 mpg (or less !). You should be getting closer to 120 miles from that tank if all is running well. Your filters might need a clean ?

Really nice 1100J, good day to be out and about yesterday - Loomies isn't far from my in-laws, will have to drop in one day (Loomies that is, I see my in-laws fairly often !)

Unfortunately G1460 has this right FJD - a good head always costs. A ported head on a big block will have torque from very low and make a lot of it, but it will peak early, which will cut the peak hp - depends what you want/are happy with. It'll be Christmas in a couple of months, have you got an rich relatives !

Good question FJD - have had a look at valve specs before, but couldn't see any 5mm shank valves of the right length - early Hayabusas' valves have 5mm stems (like ours), but are 33.5 mm standard on the inlets and I don't know their length, or retainer to tip length..... had a look at a valve manufacturers catalogue and didn't see any valves with the same product code, so I don't think there is a straight swap. Even Hayabusa pistons are only a fit, not ideal for a N/A motor, without some work to up compression and the valve angles are different between the motors, so you have to keep checking valve to piston clearance - but like all things, most things can be made to work ! p.s. - a lot of the litre sports bike valves use thinner valve stems - 4.5 and even 4mm, so it limits possible swaps. There's some ingenious people on here, so there might be some ideas - it does look like special purchase for the valves though.

What are you going to do with the head FJD ? - have you got something spicy already ? - a good porting job, big valves and lumpy cams make the big engines work well - will need an extra cooler.

The 2006 B650 was a one year only, before the w/c model replaced it. You might need to check some of these things yourself, I can't remember what else was changed from the previous model, that engine was used in the 600 teapot, so quite a few will know that engine - but how much was changed on the B650 ?? The 750M revved very high, so if the B650 igniter is compatible it'll be fine. The 650 engine was a slightly larger bored 600, with the later styling - like the last year o/c B1200 - there's a thought - fit the big engine in it, same sized cases. The rest of it as Mr Wraith has said !

Have you fitted /will fit fresh valve springs Crow ?

I had a Veypor display (a Canadian gauge) and it couldn't use the original tacho's signal wire, so I linked it to one of the coil signal wires - here's a picture a year or two ago - all worked well, although it needed stick coils to get a clean rpm signal, the old HT leads interfered with the signal. I recently played with the dyno function it had, if you enter the overall weight it had enough other data to work out how much power would be required to accelerate the bike at a known rate (it gives an idea, it's different though as wind resistance comes into it for instance). I'd done a few runs over the last couple of years, so I thought I'd upload the graphs onto my laptop …. unfortunately the auxiliary power supply fried a circuit ! I couldn't fix the burnt bit of circuit board track, so I bought a Koso DB 03r - basically the right money and told me the info I needed. This unit could use the original tacho signal lead, so I got it all working and took the bike out - the bike has gained some more low rev drive - seems with my previous tapping into the coil signal wire had affected the pair of stick coils, they obviously like a good, clean supply. I had to fiddle around a lot with carb settings to get a decent, smooth low end drive I remember - so if anyone has a problem with their stick coil conversion and has a similar rpm link, it might pay to check this. My bike has a big bore with fairly high compression, so asks a little more from it's ignition - it's now very noticeably harder pulling sub 4k - feels like a B12 down low now (not that I've ridden many you understand !) and combines very nicely with a very strong 4k+ that has been there since sorting my carburation after b.b. etc. Happy days …. see if I can get out again as the sun's out.

Stiffer springs will be required with a cam giving .396 lift (9.9mm) standard is .346 (8.8mm), else you'll get valve float at high revs - Yes, stiffer springs will lose you power - in tuning you use the softest springs that still control the valves at high revs - plus you need to check all the things already said above .... A good flow job, raising the compression and good carbs is a sure way to get good solid power gains. Big cams don't always give you good power - best done as a part of whole top-end project to make them work well. 1109cc isn't very big for these motors, GSXR1100 cams or GSXR750 K/J cams give good power for the 5 speed box. Depends what you want to achieve ? there's a lot of experience on this board to help you.

Have a look with a torch, you can normally see where the c.chain is bunched, you should be able to free the chain by supporting it (pulling it slightly) and rocking the crank at the starter clutch, or ignition pick up end - don't force anything though. I think the B1200 engine has a hyvo c.chain, which might make this more difficult - but should still work with everything cleared out of the way. The other guys have already said about the unlikely even of bending anything, it'll just be the chain by the crank .chain drive.... not enough of this possibility is said in various manuals. I'm sure it'll free sk - just don't put too much force to free it, the chains are pretty strong though.

When this happens I remove the cams, the front cam chain guide and manually move the cam chain , it should come free with the front guide/blade removed. The chain bunches up sometimes and gets caught - always best not to move anything when finishing it off, everyone does at some point though !

Using Busa pistons will allow you to use any grade of fuel though ! Good for a turbo motor, CR is about 8.5:1 I think.