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Oilyspanner

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Everything posted by Oilyspanner

  1. The feed comes from the oil line on the upper case, behind the cylinder block/ barrel assembly - this single line branches into a dual line to the back of the cam cover. A head cooler takes the oil from the upper case feed to an additional cooler and then a line with a dual branch returns the oil to the rear of the cam cover - the oil will be lower in temperature when it circulates around the top of the head, so will keep the head temperature down. This diagram shows it really well - it's the one fitted to the GSXR750RK https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/suzuki-gsxr750r-1989-k-e01-e02-e04-e22-sub-oil-cooler_bigsue0067fig-17_fbc2.gif
  2. GSXR1100 m/n and bandit 1200 should be the same, both have the larger output shaft bearing too.
  3. Are you sure it's starved of fuel ? - check the fuel is being released by removing tank, attach a pipe to vac and suck - petrol should pour out of the 2 outlets - probably best you sit the tank over a big bowl, or fit pipe to the outlets and run them into a container... The plugs will tell you if the motor is cutting out due to starvation or by too much fuel. I've often thought I've had a lean condition and it's turned out to be rich, the plugs have told me that the motor is running rich - sooty ceramic. Obviously, check the other things mentioned.
  4. Many bits have been mentioned already. You didn't mention it, but this is just a 750 heads question ? The USA was the only country to get o/c GSXR750s in 1992, it was the same as the 1991 M anyway - they were both shim adjusted valve heads, nothing but colour schemes changed. You can only fit long stroke 750 heads to long stroke bottom ends (okay with a huge amount of work anything is possible) - the 1990 R 750L was liked because it was easier/safer to fit lumpy, race cams to it compared with the shim heads and had the same sized valves. The shim heads did have slightly better inlet ports though, slightly raised floor and the divider were different. You can get any head to work much better with some flowing. It is possible to fit the valve train from 750L to replace the 750M (N)'s - the shim on top of valve retainer had the potential to lose a shim during valve float, more likely in a race motor. The short stroke heads have larger valves than the long stroke 750's, same size as 1100's - head volume not smaller than other 750's, but smaller than 1100's, which is why they are often fitted to 1100/1200s (they give higher compression). The short stroke 750 engines R and GSX-F models all have similar heads/valve sizes/volumes etc and have the 'dot' cast on them. These heads can be fitted to the 1100/1200 engines but not long stroke 750's, the casting is different, cam chain tunnel is different. Like Wraith I've not looked at the R 750 J/K head compared with a GSX-F dot head, but some say the inlet port floor isn't as raised on the F ?... maybe someone who has checked can add to the thread. The cams are the big difference between the dot head R's and F's. There are head casting details on the underside of the intake runners - eg my 1100N has 41C amongst the markings, this tells you it's for a 41C model - GSXR1127 M/N. Unfortunately I don't know the 750 markings - anyone ?
  5. Good to see all the bits compared together, never had them all together. The 80mm bore with the 58mm stroke of the 1052 bottom end will give a displacement of 1166cc.
  6. Received mine last might, really well made, nicely finished off - I'll swap the spacers over later, measuring the needle protrusion from bottom of slide and replicating it with my shiny new ones cheers Jon, makes my previous spacers look very Heath Robinson !
  7. Well it is Christmas soon Clive, a few well chosen hints should do the trick …. making the garage stink of petrol, leaving the laptop on the Pingel dual outlet tap page, saying loudly 'I must get a new fuel tap for the big Suzuki and all will be good' ! Ho Ho Ho....
  8. I have to admit I was thinking of getting a Pingle if I had delivery problems - damn expensive for what they are - much cheaper than rebuilding the engine though ! Only took 20 minutes to test, so I could test periodically, just for peace of mind - shame there aren't many options.
  9. I was going to post a question about the output per minute of the standard fuel tap - but I decided I was being lazy ! Mikuni jets are rated in ml/cc per minute, so my jet sizes mean I would need a minimum of 750 ml per minute to feed the carbs at WOT. I took the tank off, fitted some tubing to the fuel outlets and vacuum link. I timed 15 seconds of flow into a measuring jug (not so easy when you're sucking on the vacuum pipe) - the jug had just over 300 ml in the 15 seconds, so over 1200 ml in a minute. So a healthy Slingshot dual outlet tap can supply more than 50 % over and above my carb requirements at maximum throttle/revs. I was worried that the tap maybe couldn't flow enough, so for now at least the standard tap stays - the membrane and mechanism of the standard tap can be problematic with time and crappy fuel residue, but all seems good. I'm glad I checked though, in the last year or so I've spent a lot of time and money on the engine, I didn't want fuel starvation to wipe out the fruits of my labours, just because I didn't check fuel flow. Just a shame the weather's gone tits up until next year
  10. Seem to remember the std m/c being 1/2 inch, which is about 13mm. 16mm is plenty big enough, you might find that you don't need to move the lever very far to disengage the clutch, so would bite pretty late too. I fitted a TL1000R m/c when I altered my controls - that was marked the same as the std m/c You're right about the increased pressure required for a larger bore m/c, I swapped between a 17mm and 19mm brake m/c several times when I changed the front-end. The 17mm m/c was lighter in action, but there was more lever movement, but it was powerful - the 19mm needed less lever movement, was firmer at the lever and wasn't really any more powerful. The smaller m/c also gave more feel, because of the greater movement needed I guess … bigger isn't always best with master cylinders … plus the clutch doesn't need as much fluid movement as two brake calipers.
  11. Hi - the two types of 750 engine have different sized big ends and small ends, so you can't swap cranks/rods/pistons. The short stroke heads fits 1052/1127/1157 block, but cam chain tunnel is wrong for the long stroke 750. Perhaps with machining, specially made rods etc you can put the parts together, but as standard they won't match up. Maybe someone has done the alterations and will see your post, I haven't heard anything though - good luck though.
  12. Just wondering, what project you got on the go Jon ? I don't think this is for your 1246 ? I love my Nitron shock, real quality damping, best quality shock for the money - Had looked at a GSXR750 K6-L0 shock, which fits, working stroke is about the same and has high /low speed comp. damping (my forks have this and it works well)- but to get the same level of fade free damping I'd need to spend a wedge on a re-working of valving, plus get a spring to suit. I bought a Faulkner's spring for £34.99 delivered and Nitron works superbly again (bike's lost 100lb and spring too stiff, the reason I looked around for options)- still want their top of the range unit though.... next year.
  13. Interesting points about the location, does pay to check - I did measure the clearance, the sensor sits 6mm+ above the point where the shock would be bottomed out. Akrapovic obviously do their homework, the rear pipe work is just out of harms way at full compression, the down pipes have touched down though... but I have mucked around with stance. If I had to go up over a high kerb I'd have to go careful - I live out in the sticks, so no speed bumps and the fairing/exhaust have to ground down 5mm before reaching the sensor - have touched the lower fairing down when in a corner being silly, but the centre point of sump would've been well out of the way.
  14. I've got a sensor in a sump plug adaptor, it gives a cool temperature reading there (close to oil cooler return) - mid 60's- 70's when out riding generally, goes up quickly in town, but drops quickly when you get moving again. I know that if the oil gets hot in the sump the engine is damn hot, but if you keep moving the temp is pretty well controlled. You can put an adaptor in the oil galley plug down by the bottom frame rail. Anywhere close to the head will give you a high reading - but I just find around the sump area convenient.
  15. Both those bikes mentioned have cartridge forks - Suzuki were the first to fit cartridge forks on a mainstream bike with the 1988 GSXR750J and the first with usd forks in 1990 (750/1100L) - Suzuki were advanced thinking ! The Slabbies had damper rod forks . The Showa 750 usd forks were a nicer fork than the1100's Kayaba, but the 1100 forks were impressively strong and can take loads of abuse.
  16. The only sure way of calculating valve lift is with a dial gauge FJD - there's tolerances/slop between the cam and valve, this would make any lobe and follower ratio type calculation inaccurate. I don't know which cams you've got, but the inlet lobes especially are very low, the GSXR's are all 33.5 to 33.9mm range ?? (even GSX-F are much bigger) The inlet lobes should be larger than the exhaust's. They could be Japanese market cams, or some low power market ones, but the inlets should still be larger than the exhaust lobes..... I expect someone on here has come across something similar - I wouldn't want to fit those into one of my motors though Bud ! - maybe in 30 years..... ps - the cams aren't the normal colour either are they, very silver looking.
  17. If you're going to use filters the 38's will be better - the 40's need an airbox to work well, you get dips in the delivery without the airbox, I tried for a while with the Factory kit. The 40's work really well with the airbox and free flowing filter, then jetted to suit. The 38's work well with or without an airbox, still need to put a bit of work in to make them work nicely, but it's far easier.
  18. It's a power jet as Jaydee says, they're a press fit, they had a blind jet (#0) over here and you need an airbox for them to work properly - can't see a car having use for them … easy enough to get the carbs working and 38's are good - need to get rid of the metal tee's on the fuel feeds Rick, they'll heat up the fuel going into the float bowls - been there and done that !
  19. Good point, the US and A 1990 750/1100 models kept to rwu forks, unlike every other market - cost advantage ? I have spotted a few spring rates that were a bit off, but most are right I think, it's useful though.
  20. According to the Race Tech site the spring length and diameter are the same. 1100 engines always need slightly firmer springs, the engine doesn't weigh too much more, but combined with greater weight transfer on the over-run and acceleration, weight transfer is greater - but everyone rides differently and has different expectations.
  21. I'm full of semi useless info and facts..... I can sort of see how Clive arrived at his thinking , the F was more powerful than std 1052s- plus : The 1100f didn't have any restrictions unlike the GSXR1100L/M/N, but if you fitted a full system (or non restricted silencers)to all of them, the 1100f would produce less peak power. In unrestricted form, the M and N were the most powerful oc bikes with their 40mm carbs and slightly altered head - the 1100K/L were the gruntiest GSXRs - all would in their natural state produce more peak torque and hp compared with the 1100f - the 1100F always produced a lovely curve though. The early 90's restrictions were a waste of time/fuel and laughable given the 200hp techno things you can buy now ! The 1100K didn't have restricted silencers when they came out and it's why most remember it being the most powerful oiler - the silencers have different part numbers. The restricted silencers got an extra baffle plate which cocked up the power delivery. I remember that the 1100K's silencers were 40c0 and 1 (I think), the 1100L went to 40c4 silencers - there are probably restorers rebuilding a lovely GSXR1100L, look up to see what silencers they should have and hamstring the bike with the 40c4 jobbies - better with the K's 40c0s. The 1100M/N have 41c0/1 silencers - when I originally got my 1100N it had one correct silencer and one from an 1100L, the bike was shite with them - fitted a race system, what a huge difference, these bikes love a decent exhaust. I'm off to light my pipe and pop on my tartan slippers now !
  22. ? ? ? GSXR front end onto a Bandit, or Bandit front end onto a GSXR, or GSXR onto Bandit and what fits onto the GSXR in it's place ? Not sure what you're asking speedy89 - perhaps I need more beer . . . . !
  23. The GSX1100F motors are good units, the cams may not be quite the same as the GSXR ones, but they give a good combination of bottom end and top end. The helical primary gear isn't an issue for a non turbo bike. Besides the engine is ripe for transplanting !
  24. Does look like a Gs650GT tank, they hold about 3 gallons, 13/14 litres, the cap is off centre like yours. Your fuel consumption is poor, could be running rich after fitting the pod filters and jetting - you're getting about 33 mpg (or less !). You should be getting closer to 120 miles from that tank if all is running well. Your filters might need a clean ?
  25. Really nice 1100J, good day to be out and about yesterday - Loomies isn't far from my in-laws, will have to drop in one day (Loomies that is, I see my in-laws fairly often !)
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