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Need more info Dude. What air filter/filters, are the float heights accurately set ? It sounds like it's running very rich - are plugs sooty ?. Are the main jets Dynojet ? - they are different to Mikuni. Before you go to the dyno, make sure the float heights are set correctly - when the fuel level is wrong it will muck up most of the carb circuits and give you endless problems to get the bike running well.

Glad you found out why the pistons met the valves first time round VJ. For more torque and better bottom end go for smaller numbers and for top end go for more retarded settings - larger numbers. Standard cams are better when they are close to recommended figures - I had a little play with settings recently and going more than a degree or two away from std wasn't great, too retarded was worse than advanced, at least with advanced you have loads of drive in the first half of delivery.

Has to be rubbish on valve seat or worn needle, really takes very little..... damn annoying, at least you know it's on #3 carb - good luck !

Unless your fuelling is off, you won't gain a great deal with a jetting kit - you've got a nice smooth curve, so it's not far off. If you want power and torque, fit a big bore kit and fit GSXR cams, 1100 cams will work well - this isn't hard on the engine as it's a detuned GSXR1100 engine to start off with, with loads of scope for reliable power gains. With these mods you'll need to alter the jetting , but you'll have a much more potent motor at the end of it , from low down to high up the rev range. If you do these mods you'll be very pleased with the results - Mr Viz the moderator/judge/executioner/cartoonist extraordinaire will be happier too !

One thing I did find about the weight figures between the 750 and 1100 L models and M models is that Suzuki seemed to have changed their claimed figures (more truthful). The only heavier bits of note on either are the glassed in headlights, all the main bits are very much the same - a few years ago I looked up the real weights from magazines that actually weigh their test bikes, not use claimed figures (10/11kg difference in claimed figures) - both 'M' bikes are within 2kg of the 'L' and if you weigh the headlight bracket and headlights of both, the difference is almost all their. The worse thing about the glassed in heavy headlights of the late 750 and 1100's is that is a bad place to add extra weight, it's a long way from the centre of mass and high up, so has a greater effect - add 2kg just above the engine and you won't notice it, put it at either end and high up - you certainly will ! I made an aluminium headlight bracket and made a 'foxeye' fireplace headlight fit, it saved just over 6lbs, nearly 3kgs, it made the bike feel like it was running with an empty fuel tank in comparison. Sorry for going off the subject a little, thought it was interesting though - the pretty faired in lights of the last 750/1100 bikes weren't great for handling.

Looks like the fork sliders are corroded, the other bits can be done along the way - the great thing about the 750 L/M's is that you can slot in more recent forks, 50mm and 54mm at the clamps - big choice compared with 1100's. Old alarms and immobilisers are a complete pain, extra stuff to go wrong.... always seem to corrode at the joins and terminals - well and truly immobilised !

Don't break it MartynGSXR, I'll buy it and get it working properly - I've always liked those colours, as long as the engine isn't seized...... move it on and make a bob ?

You're right Capt - plus the M/N mirrors mount in an upright position, not nearly horizontal like K/L 1100's

Hy-vo type ?

Looks slightly thicker than std spacer, so lifts needle - so a bit richer. Looks like a spacer that keeps the needle upright and prevents needle jet wear - where did you get them Blue ? - made a set up myself, don't look pro like that one though !

I bought adjustable sprockets on mine in a moment of feeling flush/stupid ! - would be easy to elongate the mounting holes a few mm either way with a tungsten burr. You could check the cams for safety's sake, just to see where they're at - some bikes are inaccurate as standard, most are a bit out, but not enough to worry about. The cam chain guide/ idler needs some care when fitting, as it's easy to move the cams. I know plenty have fitted dot heads to 1052 / 1127 / 1156 engines using just cam markings and rotor tdc position, with the different sized c. chamber there's less room for error though a tooth out probably wouldn't be good.... sounds like you could've been close with the piston/valve clearance first time round and this disappeared with some revs. Good luck with the 750f head.

I used the m12 engine mount bolt for a positive piston stop VJ - I had the engine out, was going to make a pos.piston stop and I then saw the engine bolt ..... just get #1 & 4 very close to tdc and screw the bolt in against the piston. Dial gauges are cheap, or borrow one - make sure it's securely mounted, else you get all manner of readings. I normally check cam centres a bunch of times, once the same numbers keep appearing there's no chance of error. I set both exh and inlet at 105 degrees - seems to be good for std GSXR cams. Go steady as the piston approaches the pos. piston stop, else you'll mark up the piston crown, or worse I guess ! Dialling in the cams isn't actually that difficult, just something that adds time to the job - it's essential really, especially if cams or head are different - get a better running engine too. Better luck with this one

Pretty sure the 400 and 250 four cylinder engines were water cooled - the engine on the B4 looked like it was o/c, but wasn't. I'm sure one that came into the shop once (thrown a rod) was w/c - as E G has said, the basic design is different.

I used a seal company on the bidding site - just nitrile o rings, not had a problem, you can get loads as spares for the price of one Suzuki one. On my carbs the bowl gasket has always been fine, I just wipe some rubber grease on it (after quick clean) - I've changed the pilot screw seals, float valve seals and the emulsion tube one too. I bought some emulsion tubes/ needle jets from Allen's performance a few years back (originals look pretty good though) - apart from jetting changes for changes I made to the bike, that's it. The original seals are nitrile, I think Viton is better for higher temperatures, nitrile is fine with fuel and oil. Here's something I saved from the internet that was helpful. Carb seal sizes Idle Mixture Screw o-ring 3 x 1mm or 2.5 x 1mm I saw in a previous posting that the idle mixture screw uses a 3mm x 1mm. That's the same size I measured too, though Ohffs used a 2.5 x 1mm which sounds like a good idea to ensure a snug fit. Diaphragm o-ring (air seal at the top cap) 4 x 1mm inner diameter = 4.0386mm cross section = 1mm These next ones I'm really not sure about, I don't want any gas leaking past of course... Small o-ring on floats 5.5 x 1.5mm or 6 x 1.5mm ??? inner diameter = 5.8928mm The part of the float it fits on was measured at 5.8928mm. Should I go 5.5 or 6mm here? cross section = 1.27mm - 1.3208mm (seems to have flattened out a bit). I'm guessing this should be 1.5mm?? Large o-ring on floats 7.5 x 1.5mm ??? inner diameter = 7.493mm part of the float it fits on is 7.6708mm cross section = 1.4732mm Slide guide o-ring near emulsion tube 10 x 1.5mm or 10.5 x 1.5mm ??? inner diameter = 10.668mm part of the guide it fits on was 10.4394mm cross section = 1.2192mm - 1.4732mm (was flattened a bit)

Looking nice and neat YYT

I had to allow for the head gasket thickness too, which on mine was .8mm when torqued down - easiest to measure old one. I wish I'd used a burette to measure the chamber volume, it's the most accurate.... even better - could've given the engine to Ray Debben, he's only down the road ! nah, working on these bikes is good fun and besides my spanners wouldn't be oily !

On relatively low tune bikes (big margins in many areas to exploit) a 4 or 5 degree advancer will improve part throttle response, at full throttle on the dyno it looks like you only gain 1 - 2 hp in the mid-range. but they do work - only don't expect big gains . I took my advancer off when I fitted my big bore kit, which is close to a true 12 : 1 compression ratio, more advance does mean more heat, on top of the extra heat from the compression and tuning. The ideal scenario would be to fit a programmable ignitor unit and spend a day on the dyno finding the minimum advance for maximum torque through the rev range. A big bore gives you loads of extra pick-up anyway, so any extra crispness isn't needed. More modern bikes don't really benefit from any more advance.

Nice write up Cgto - even the Australian pages ! Lee's good at explaining the subject - took me many reads of info before I got my head round it - the 'what's happening' and 'why' did finally sink in, then be confident enough to tackle the job.

I forgot about the Webb cams write up, it's closer to the one Ray had on his old site - you don't degree the cams very often, well I don't ! so it's good to remind yourself before you start - you can feel the difference if they're out - the crank / cam position can be out from new. http://www.webcamshafts.com/index_blank.html?pages/degreeing.html

Pretty sure all the 1100F cams are the same, I don't think they ever claimed any changes.

They need some work Dude, some nasty wear on the journals close to the sprockets - I would pass. Maybe someone on here has a spare set ?

Have you changed the cams Steve ? I just wondered, as I think the Inazuma had B12 type cams/or similar cams and big old 40mm flatties will flow far more air than the engine/cams can use ... you probably have and big bored/ported etc too ..... of course if you haven't, I've got a set of lovely 36mm cv carbs that would work a treat on a standard Inazuma and a 1186 ported GSXR that would love the TMRs ...... !! Well it was worth a shot . . . .

Slingies rock too ! As much as I like Slabbies I don't like the riding position and with a bit of work they can be very good - as with all the O/C bikes, the world's the limit on mods. I meant to write 'fairly quick', not 'fairly quite' in my previous post - being a careless knoblet there !

Swapped the original system for a Muller system (remember them) - worked well, bike was transformed from lumbering fairly quite thing, into a lighter, properly rapid bike Then bought a used Akrapovic system . Initially fitted a Quill silencer, nice looking but being round was close to the swingarm. So I bought an oval Akra can - job done ...