Oilyspanner

I would make sure the float heights are 14.7mmand leave them Carl - it's pretty much the standard for the R carbs, it's normally pretty spot on. It affects top and bottom, so makes it a mind fook more often than not. If you haven't got a copy here's the best info on carb set-up ever printed. http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html

Looks more like a J shape than a K ! GSXR clutch mounts don't have screw-in mirrors point on them, B ones do.

That's one box ticked FBOB ! I love the photo of the sump - tappet adjuster found and you can see the pattern from the underside of the piston !! What's the plan ? - check trueness of crank, replace conrod ,piston and fit dot head ? and FBOB's your Uncle !

I'm trying to be positive - hmmm, the other cylinders seem to have been running okay

I converted mine a while back using the Practical Sportsbikes article Dead pleased with the results, loads more space and good sparks. http://www.say what now!?.com/forums/15-oil-cooled-gixxers/637961-just-converted-stick-coils.html

On 1100N I fitted the longer stand from 750 WT/V , used a modded Slingshot bracket - again, I had to lose the s.stand switch, but no hardship. Along with some Ti bolts have saved almost half a pound and another 3 ounces with the switch (all part of 82 lbs lost). The stand was fine even with fairly radical dog bones, I've since made some near stock length links and the stand is still fine. The standard stand quickly gets dodgy with a longer shock and shorter s. links.

1992 GSXR600 ?? - no 600 in Europe until 1997. No Oil Cooled GSXR600. I think the U.S. had shrunken engined GSXR750WN in 1992 - if that's the case, the water-cooled bikes had bolt on sub frames, so the world's your mollusc !

It's got std carbs I think: so If the carbs are balanced, the throttle butterflies are adjusted - the slides work on vacuum only and aren't mechanically operated like Rs / FCR/TMR carbs. The air filter and plugs need to be in good working order before balancing, is all okay ? Checking the pilot mixture screws is a good idea once the filter/plugs/ht leads and plug caps are checked. If it was spluttering off idle before and it's even worse when balanced, then there could be another problem causing richness (at least it sounds like it) - such as worn needle jets, they can cause rough running even at low revs. Check all the normal serviceable stuff first though.

That's them

A larger front sprocket is always best for chains, less abrupt changes of direction is easier on links - also a larger front s. reduces force acting on swing arm, more related to track set-upthan road though.

Tuned B12 motors need a modded a.box, so it's going to struggle with the higher revving, air hungry 1127 engine. Dual pod filters would be easiest option, then you would need a jet kit to suit ie one for 1100K/L, with 36mm carbs - it's easy to get the main jet and pilot jet size about right, but the needle is very difficult and best left to factorypro/dynojet, who've done all the hard work for you. You can spend weeks/months trying different needles etc to get your altered bike's carburation sorted, always ends up easier to buy a kit - it normally saves time, money, marriages, mental health and a variety of other health issues !

I'm sure it's the case TD - TTS used to do various big bores for b6, 750, 884 , you didn't need to change the head, unless you wanted the better breathing provided by bigger valves and cams. It completely changes the character of the engine, from limp and revvy to torquey, with max torque and power achieved at lower revs. I've just got out P.Bikes mag from Jan. 1996, it has a feature about just this and it states that even the 884cc conversion can use the b6 head - as the late great John Robinson says - big bores effectively lower the state of tune, shifting the peak lower in the rev range. When I got into O/C bikes I put all the mags with useful articles alongside workshop manuals in my ' library' - sad but true ! - comes in handy when doing things though - my wife keeps cluttering the shelves with random books though . . .

Ah, forgot that Captn ! With JB weld (or similar) add some over the surrounding solid parts of the carb - add some grooves too, to help the repair bond to the carb body ,heap it up too, you can always pretty it up later. Make sure the surface is clean from any grease/oil etc and let the repair cure for 24 hours - given a chance it can make really strong repairs.

Hi OSZ - any Slingshot 1100/750 36 or 38mm carbs would fit - some flatslide carbs would work well on your tricked up Bandit. You could probably fix your carbs using JB weld or similar (incorporate a washer for extra strength), it looks like the sealing surface is still good, so maybe not the end of the world for your old carbs.

I think the amount of silicon can alter the rate of expansion to suit use. I remember that Cosworth pistons needed more clearance because they expanded at quite a different rate than the cast liners, because of their compostition. I think Wiseco alloy doesn't expand as much, much closer to the liner's rate, so clearance could be tighter - so... I was thinking that our engines will run a little hotter than the better temperature controlled w/c unit and wondered what alloy differences would be - there would only be fractions in it , but it made me wonder. I just found a magazine article P.B. April 1994 - higher silicon content means lower expansion and Japanese pistons tend to use high silicon content alloys - that means both liner and piston should expand at similar rates, so even if the temp. is higher on O/C engine there shouldn't be a problem......thanks P.B. for answering my curiosity !

Jonny1bump came up with a good solution to keep the needles perpendicular ,normally they're at an angle and wear the needle jets oval. I had the diagram of the special spacer that keeps the needle perfectly upright - unfortunately it's on my old kn*ckered computer - I expect it's in the archive somewhere ? I made a version of them and it works a treat, next to no wear. The special spacers use the 'ledge' at the bottom of the slide to hold things straight, normal spacers are pushed to one side by that ledge, causing the needle jets to wear after not many miles.

Just wondering : What sort of clearance is required for the pistons ? Our bikes are essentially air cooled, with some help , using water-cooled pistons that are designed for expansion of liners with a water jacket , I guess some sort of allowance has to be made ? I know piston manufacturers use several alloys, which need different clearance.

Main jet doesn't have much affect at pilot jet type level. Normally 1 size increase on the pilot should do the trick with pods, so 37.5 to 40, I've heard of some needing 2 sizes up, but it's rare I think. FactoryPro go up just one size in their stage 3 kit, that's good enough for me ! If the pilot jets were a long way out, the bike would kangaroo a bit a lower revs/slow cruise/small throttle opening and revs would be slow to drop to tick-over. Fuel level will affect all circuits of the carb, top and bottom the most though.

Good news ! I wonder if you have 40mm or 36mm carbs ? - I'm curious what jetting has been used, because it looks like you have the B12 airbox fitted - could be extra power to be had . . always good !

Link didn't work ? Discs that fit : GSXR1100 - K - WT GSXR750 J - WS I think RF discs are the same as B12 ones, so offset not right. There's probably a few other models around the time that used similar discs, someone else might know.

Std gearing on 1100m/n is 15/48, better to use that gearing than the B12 - 14/48 would give you 150mph ish top gear and up the force t the wheel in each gear.

The 1100 M/N and B12 have the wider bearing and longer output shaft, I haven't heard one is stronger than the other though ? didn't know the spacers were different..

I found this from the old site, the second post has some of the info required - unfortunately the conventional forks seem to have been measured differently to the usd ones. If you measure the length of yours from centre of spindle to fork cap, you can compare with the other lengths etc http://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/612/fork-conversion-chart

I've got that chart saved on the laptop Solcambs ! - really useful one it is too, but it starts with late 90's bikes - I did have one that had all of our bikes on it..

Slabby forks have damper rods (older style forks), the 750 J/K and 1100K onwards have the more advanced cartridge forks, with proper rebound and compression adjusters - so would be a good upgrade BD. I tried to find a fork specs chart, but couldn't find it ! sorry did try . . . !