Oilyspanner

Sounds like the battery is low on charge too, the solenoid clicking means there's not enough charge to engage starter. Low octane fuel can cause pre-detonation and excess heat. 11:1 comp. ratio isn't a problem - there's 1000's of oil cooled engines running well with 11:1 and 12:1, but you do need to put half decent fuel in your tank.. It takes a lot to kill one of our engines.

With you on this CW79, only a small difference between 1100 and 750 L/M frames (which were very decent handling), the 750s had Showa suspension though, not Kayaba, which helps, plus lower bars which alters the riding position and weight distribution - a modern twin spar frame that drops the fuel load etc etc would be better - but !!! hell it's not as good looking, working around problems has always been a part of the fun.

Probably stuff you already know Steve, but just from my experience and info gathered. The suspension set-up and quality of suspension will have a much greater bearing on the handling than just which Slingshot frame is used. That said, if the same suspension was used on each frame the slightly smaller and lighter 750 frames would turn quicker - shorter wheel base mostly, using lighter wheels with better suspension is very noticeable too. Exactly which 750 frame to use will vary according to who you ask, many like the lightest framed 1988/89 frames, which were made for the short stroke 750s - this also means that adjusting the valve clearances can only be done by lowering the engine to get the cam cover out of the way. I was going to make a 7/11, so spent loads of time gathering info, but in the end I was so happy with my lightened 1100 with up- rated suspension I didn't bother ! - still might make one though, whilst parts are still plentiful enough.

I think Dale Walker used to use 10.5 :1 pistons as well as 12:1, as the guys have said , 12:1 should be no problem on half decent fuel - the 10.5:1 lets you use pretty much anything and you could still use an ignition advancer. You could do a dry build and measure the piston to head gap with solder - not a lumpy piston though, big difference between 73mm and 81mm bore, so a mismatch with the head is possible.

The compression shouldn't be a problem, 1100Rs are 10:1 std for example and are fine with the dot head, the shape of the piston crown and the 750's shape of chamber might well be though. What make of piston are the 1216s ? someone might have some experience with them. . . . .

Bandits are a good basis for serious work, if you do as the guys have said with the clutch. You might gather that I'm fond of the 'shim head' engines, which have the best 1100 ports as standard and the inlets to inlet rubbers are shaped for the big 40mm carbs, so are very good for mild/moderate tuning. If you've got a shim head, the inlet rubbers will have 41c on them, the code of the last oil cooled 1100s with the 40mm cv carbs. If you want to shift the torque curve further to the top end with big cams don't use the shim head, well you could swap all the valve gear from a screw and locknut head . . a bit much work though. Just my thoughts - some of the chaps on here have done s-ite loads of work to their oilers over the years (eg. G1460), how wild do you want to go will decide which route to take engine wise.

The 1100 M/N engines have small shims that sit in the top of the retainers, it's possible with enough valve float for them to jump ship, this is just before the valve says 'hello' to Mr Piston though ! If the valve springs aren't saggy, clearances correctly set you are very unlikely to have problems, you need a good 4mm of float - the shim head 750 M revved to 13,000 - the 1100 only revs to a true 10,800 revs before the rev limiter cuts in (about 11,500 on the original clock). I use my 1100N pretty enthusiastically and it's been fine - the fact that there's still a lot of shim head engines out there after years of abuse tells you the head is fine with std cams. I wouldn't put higher lift cams in mine though, that's the main difference between shim heads and screw and locknut heads. The 1100 M/N has an extra output shaft bearing , like the B12, that allows for the slightly longer shaft for the 180 tyres, earlier models only had up to 160 width as standard. With a big bore 1186/1216, good porting (attention to detail, not loads of material off), good ex. system and carb set-up, you can get into the mid 150 hp bracket with standard cams /valves - this gives a really nice spread of power too and over 90 lb/ft of torque. If you're going for BIG power, screw and locknut is the way to go - for big valves/big cams / big block etc If anyone has a neglected shim head engine lying about , I'll have it !!

The only batteries that are smaller and more than man enough are Li batteries, they can be mounted anywhere, plus they're a fraction of the weight. Mine saved 7lb 14oz over the heavy duty Yuasa original - cost £89., not so much more than a good standard battery.

On the tuning theme/cams etc, I stumbled on Dale Walker's site again- I really like the work he did on his Bandit engines. http://www.holeshot.com/old/Bandit/bndt_12project.html

The W carbs from WP - WS can be made to fit by using a different combination of inlet rubbers, I haven't done this, but the info is out there. As JD says, you can't use the shim head cams, different set-up, twice the lobes etc. You can get good gains even from just using an 1100 inlet cam (not M/N though), or 750J/K. The 1988 - 1997 GSX750F head is very similar to the R750 J/K, so might be worth a shot, would give higher compression, with same size valves, they should be cheap. Those early teapots only made about 5hp less than the Rs, due to less aggressive cams, but even those cams are hairier than the Bandits' - just for possibilities . . .

R705 is the early 750 engine, so an 1100 crank couldn't be used without line boring the mains out to fit the 1100 sizes (32mm v 36mm). More likely an 1100 block has been used for oversized liners ? and height reduced for 750 stroke. You'll probably need to have a look inside to make sure. https://sites.google.com/site/suzukitechnical/suzuki/sacs-enginecodes The short stroke 750s , J/K, have the same size mains as the 1100s ,so in theory an 1100 crank should drop straight in, I don't know about primary drive/clutch arrangement. The GSX750F engine to 1997 shared the short stroke engine too

She's a beauty ! - top work

I'm for keeping the hugger, they look pretty good and do a fantastic job of keeping the crud from the battery box/shock/linkages area. If the Akra is close to the price of your bike, I'll give you a grand like yesterday !! I've got an Akra system (had a different end can), fitted now with a Quill carbon can - I picked the system up 2nd hand for £250 and the suitable can was £50, so not bad.

Have time on my hands, so just checked the inlet valve part numbers, they're different, it was worth a look though for my own info.

This might be useful : I think the late model GSX750F, which used the long stroke motor, was based on the L motor - so would probably use the same valves - a bit of research should confirm this. Oily

The short stroke 750 valves are the same size as the 1100 and wouldn't fit the long stroke 750 head - you can't use the 750M valves either, the shim head valves are a different length.

750M had 38mm carbs std I think, so might make it difficult to buy over the counter jet kit. Certainly with 1100s, if you fit pods (or Pipercross replacement box filter) , you'll need different needles , because you can't enrich this area enough with std needles. The mj sizing goes up by 25/30. 750s should be along the same lines.

Nice !

Looks lovely FBOB ! I find mine more comfy than the Busas I've had. Keep it, add an Akrapovic and get the suspension working - lovely !!

Just my findings. The different rubbers for the 40mm carbs require the inlets to be matched to rubbers - else you get a step that disturbs flow - you probably did this, but a mate didn't and it definitely affected how the carbs worked. I love the carbs on my N, took longer to set up after letting the motor 'breathe' though(comp. with 36s). The ports were altered a little on the M/N too, as well as the inlets matching the rubbers. The 40s work well with big bore/ flowing and remain very civilised. 38s work well, but I don't have experience with them.

Sounds like it was slightly rich for cooler conditions, it would be very rich for warmer conditions. Were the jets changed from standard ? If you whip one of the plugs out , I expect it'll be sooty.

Yep CRD, the dot head tried to get a bit of down-draft effect and the intake ports are angled differently. The only problem with the 1100/1200 engine in the short stroke R frame is having to lower the engine down to adjust the valve clearances - Capt will say if there's a special knack to help with this . . .

Check your oil level too, you could have petrol in it, from when the tap and float needles weren't working properly.

I must've missed the post, what mods have you done to your engine Foz ? - sounds pretty good though (apart from the clutch !).

Just had a look at mine, with the flat at the bottom it'll be on prime.