Oilyspanner

You need to press down on the back of the plastic assembly (like it would with bowl fitted) to get an accurate measurement - it'll alter the gap for the better. If the spring loaded pin can be pressed in and it springs back out, it should be okay.

Nice bikes - the red/black Tiger Stripe always looked good, the loder brother to mine ! 1992 about the only year where (in my eyes) the blue/white wasn't as good as the other options - the blue needed to be stronger , still nice though .... 1100s always needed help to handle and a diet - they can rock though and with fewer gear changes More Slingies - I know there's loads out there - 750M was a great finale for the 750 . . . .

A couple of my bike, a mate of mine had the w/c 750 in this colour and I always thought it looked really smart - so years later when this one came up, I bought it - have loved it ever since.

I found Jonny1Bump's thread in the Forum - OSS member projects, It's a great read -24 years of ownership and evolution. I know most people on this board look in there anyway, but anyone who drops by, or hasn't been there - have a look at the accounts of many member's projects, loads of different types of build, all great in their own way. Makes my bits fabricating aluminium brackets, altering parts etc look junior ! I found loads of late K 1000 rear wheels and not so many 600/750 5.5 inch rims _ I think pretty much everyone runs 5.5 ones, I knew Jonny ragged his bike I removed the tag I added initially 'how to make a Slingshot handle' - cos it misleading, I've managed to get my 1100 to handle unrecognisably better - should've put 'finishing touches', but anyone who has the modding bug knows - it's never fully finished !

I expect the pilot jets are a size too small, normally need 42.5 when not using airbox and either individual or pod filters. The needle taper might be wrong for the filters/exhaust set-up - try lifting the needle up a notch or two. As long as the ignitor box is from the same generation 750 it's fine - just don't rev it to 750 levels, the std rev counter over reads, so 11500 revs would be safe - would be around 10700 true revs.

Thanks J1B and dupersunc - I knew you both appreciated good handling and have tried allsorts .so thanks gents - often good to ask what others have done and what has worked for them - saves time/sweat/tears etc ! Yep, the engine is a heavy lump, full of torque and character, but built for strength really - a chunk lighter than the air cooled GSXs though...

I thought you were pretty handy superdunc ! - thanks for your comments, good to know you didn't notice any s.arm flex on track (more possible twist than on the road), I think the arm is pretty light, so that's good. I've not been on track with my 1100, I think it would be good fun though. I love this bike, I've had loads of others but this one will stay until my teeth fall out and my middle leg stays permanently shrivelled !! I've got my rear raised 30mm with a longer Nitron shock, tried shorter tie rods to lift it more and didn't like it, up until now I had fitted uprated fork springs, thinner oil and alu spacers to the forks - worked pretty well. Have to agree with the EBC HH pads, work a treat, I fitted a Nissin radial m/cylinder from recent GSXR - really good mod, almost a shame to be swapping to the radial calipers. I'll be getting close to 100lbs saved with the 750K8 forks and wheels fitted. So many bits on the Slingshots are made of steel, when Alu could've been used, or bits could've been simplified - that's what I did mostly and getting rid of the very heavy std headlight for a modified fireblade one(under half the weight). I had the later straight spoke wheels fitted, with alu spacers 'n' stuff - saved 5lb over the heavy twisted spoke originals. The current 750 type wheels will save pretty much the same again, the majority from the rear hub/sprocket carrier. The front wheel weighs 9lb, the Slingy front 11lb 10oz (bearing and spacer fitted) and I got my slightly altered straight spoke down to 10lb. The modern discs save over a pound too - so there's pretty much 4lb saved by fitting the current front wheel, will be very obvious - the straight spoke made a good change too. I think Daytona 675 wheels are about as light as oem get, I found a figure of 8lb 4oz for them - but I'm not sure if that's with bearings. CBR600RR fonts are 8lb9oz. Trouble with other makes of wheels I couldn't find hub widths etc to mate up with my forks.

I didn't want to hijack another thread , so started this one. I've spent a fair bit of time and money shifting weight and on suspension/chassis on my 1100N, but I've got the modding bug , I know you've done a lot over the years and have tried all sorts. I should look up some of your old posts for more info on your many mods, but as you're around at the moment I thought I'd ask directly . Did you find the original swing-arm flexed, or perhaps just at the track ? I see you have a braced arm it looks shorter than the 1100's. What size rims do you run ? and differences felt - I'm about to buy some recent GSXR600/750 wheels, to fit in the 750K8 front end I've got - I'm a fairly 'keen' rider and so far the 5.5 inch rear rim/tyre seems fine and the 180/55 tyre helps turn in. Where did you get the carbon panels ? I seem to remember you got them commissioned somewhere. Slingshot panels are thick and heavy, something to change in the future perhaps. An ally tank would be nice too.... 5 or 6 lbs knocked off from high up...... it'll have to wait a while as I've got to finish off the new front end and wheels stuff, plus some more engine work is scheduled for the winter..money , money and more money, but worth every penny. Ta Oily

Hey Jon, there's at least 2 unused degrees unused there !

Should be very safe with an extra 4 inches of wheelbase, touring bike territory ! I think Johnny1Bump has a damper, but his bike is set-up pretty extreme, has 170hp and is setup for track work (and for his style). I bought a cheap damper from Taiwan when I was setting my bike up and seeing what happened when I got increasingly enthusiastic - I don't think anything happened (just the odd waggle) as the other chaps have said.

Like above, I wouldn't swap your head for any other if you're going to freshen her up anyway - the B12 head is much the same as the K/L too and with cams and flowing produces really good figures when combined with a capacity/compression hike. I just wanted to make the point that if someone had a shim head it wouldn't really be worth getting rid of it - unless you wanted high lift cams, the slightly higher port lead in to the valve did a bit to help cylinder filling as standard and the 40mm carbs helped too - but as soon as you have whatever head flowed nicely you'll far out strip a standard port's flow rate. I've got a really good write-up by a 90's racer (had a shop too I think) who lists all the HP increases he got with each stage of engine development - unfortunately it's on pdf format and my frickin windows 10 doesn't convert files like windows 7 and I haven't found a suitable app yet. I'll find the link for you, as it's really useful and a good read : Post 9 in this thread - I found this really good info. http://www.say what now!?.com/forums/15-oil-cooled-gixxers/217463-horsepower-questions.html

I spent a few years trying to find someone who had a shim fly lose from an M/N (I wanted to know cos I've got one), I couldn't find anyone first hand. I'm pretty sure a number of racers who fitted lumpy cams back in the day did have problems - which gets echoed about. There's a guy who has a 955cc shim head ultra trick 750M based bike and he's not had a problem in 2 decades, a lower revving 1100, well serviced bike will be fine. 1100 M/N has best head and will develop best power std (even in the U.S. which kept them on 36mm carbs)and with external bolt-ons . Of course as soon as you start porting, upping valve sizes, changing cams the head you started with doesn't make much odds, any well built head will far out strip any stock head - dot, shim head etc. The further you move from the standard head spec the longer you'll need to spend setting it up - ignition timing, cam phasing, jetting. It's easy to end up with a more powerful but peakier engine - at least our oil cooled engines can go out to 1340cc+ to regain mid-range ! Everyone has their opinion on fitting more radical cams, always seems a good idea, but can be a pain in the ass to get it running really well, you need to run stiffer springs, which absorb some of the extra power made. Ported , larger valves, 3 angle valve seat jobby, dial in the cams and with the bigger carbs (and 1216) you'll have loads more power everywhere - dead easy to use, wheelies from down low (nice !). I sp-nked away loads of cash on my bikes before I got married .... enjoyed every minute of it ! - do what you like Buddy, but have a clear idea what you want to achieve, it will save some dosh/time. Gone off track a bit there - as SuperDunc says, the shim head cams can only be used in shim head errr - heads and have 16 cam lobes with 16 followers , unlike the other engines.

If you do want to swap to stick coils this winter : The stick coils from the 1000/750/600 early K (750 Y-K5, 600 K1-K5, 1000K1-K6) family have the correct rating and decent length, earlier SRAD coils don't have enough resistance on primary/secondary for our ignitions - late K onwards seemed to change too. I remember the same reservations about pointless ignition when it started to replace points/steam locomotives etc !! - just kidding, the old coil units are dependable units and provide good sparks - I just like the space created, which helps at service time/playing about with stuff !

Mind you, Suzuki did call a 50cc scooter 'Katana', the 750/1100F was blasphemy enough - the scooter was taking the raging p-ss !!! - oh yes, welcome and as above !

That Harris sounds good, any photos ? - Slingshots lost their way with weight, my 1100N being the worse (like the M) - but there's many areas that can lose weight, I spent a year making ally braces, brackets, spacers, fitting lighter headlight, lithium battery, lighter clip-ons etc etc - along with the already fitted lighter wheels, Nitron shock, Akra, ally rear sprocket I managed to drop 82 3/4 lbs (weighed bits taken off and what I fitted). To back up what's been said the bike feels utterly different, the better suspension and set-up had made a big difference, the missing weight has made the bike feel a class size smaller. It's a really confidence inspiring bike now and you can load the suspension up in the bends, steer in on the brakes, but unlike modern sports bikes (and it's man sized), the smooth, torquey engine is very happy to lazily travel along too - suits me ! As G1460 says you won't pick up any extra ponies with stick coils over a normal properly sorted system, but it frees up space and was 10oz lighter than std coils/leads/spacer/screws and about a ton lighter than the big 3 ohm dynacoils !

Fula - what did you do to the dot head to get 147hp ? A std dot head normally nets a handful of horses on 1100R, a lot more on B12s with cams as well. The only way I've ever managed to get BIG gains is with flowing work, often pretty subtle looking work. I'm guessing you had some head work ......147 is a good figure with standard capacity....nice ! The high entry on dot heads eases the short turn radius and helps open up the front of the valve/port - the floor at this point is eased to help this when you get a head flowed. There's a slight help with gravity too, but not like true downdraft heads.

Good idea to use those rubber velocity stacks CRD, should help with flow and smoothness.... all helps !

One way to check whether different pistons are fitted without removing chunks of engine, is to remove a plug and shine a bright torch into the combustion chamber (when piston is near tdc). Std pistons have a direction arrow near the piston crown, if it's not there it has an after market piston and probably a big bore. I did this to mine, as the engine was oddly fit, turned out to have std pistons, but the inlet ports had been lightly cleaned up and the engine is just a healthy one.

As far as I know my JMT (LiFePO4) - is lithium iron phosphate - a long time since my A levels though !

Have 2 JMT batteries on 2 of my bikes - brilliant addition, smaller and feel like an empty plastic box compared with lead acid !

BSD in Peterborough have the know how to deal with carbs. It's sad that the majority of dyno operators don't really know how to set-up carbs, or if they do don't want to deal with them because it's harder work. Working on an injected bike with a power commander is very easy and you don't get your hands dirty !

Smart looking bike Dazzler, those exhausts are pretty rare now too ! The standard airbox can supply over 150hp worth of air with the right filter in it (feeding 90-100hp isn't going to be a problem), the short stroke motors like the a.box and it shields a lot of the heat from the engine entering the filter - the cool air duct from the front helps too. The rubbers from the carbs to a.box act as velocity stacks too . . . the standard set-up with jet kit and filter will net the best overall power - it just seems a bit boring, it works well though !

Nice starting point, the world's your oyster ! - looking good

If your needle jets/emulsion tubes are oval, Allen's performance are great - I bought a set for £53/55 about 3 years ago. Jonny1bump - sometimes on here, came up with a great solution, some shaped needle spacers that keep the needles vertical - as standard they are held at an angle, which over time wears the brass needle jet. I made a simplified version of the spacers, a 'D' shape that stops the step at the bottom of the slide from holding the spacer at an angle (the needle is meant to be perfectly vertical, a Suzuki oversight).

My experience with drop in air filters - on a 1100N (fairly std) - full Akra, ign advancer and light head work.. I swapped a K and N filter for a PiperCross - I wanted to see what another filter was like. The PiperX filter is a bigger filter and has a 3 inch aperture (K n N has 2 inch), it made all my carb settings too lean - I bought a FactoryPro config 3.0 jet kit, with some fiddling I got it perfect. I'm very happy with the filter, as it seems to flow very similar to dual pod filters, but has the advantages of keeping the rubber velocity stacks and airbox - ie better/smoother bottom end and mid-range - 40mm carbs are next to impossible to get right without the airbox. Maybe a K n N would be better in your case, the PiperX needed a jet kit to get the carburation right (although on an 1100) and the K n N would still flow better than std.