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Early GSXR1000/750/600 K series coils all work on Slingshots (GSR600 coils are the same as 600/750k4/5 too - so are fine) , they give correct resistance when wired in series - actually there's many others, like Triumph TT600 etc., but I like keeping to the early/mid K coils - SRAD coils have too low a resistance and I think the redesigned GSXR600/750 K6 onwards engine used different rated coils too. Always check how many ohms you have at the new loom terminals before you fit everything - should be in within spec : 2.4 - 3.2 ohms

I wonder if anyone has a piston to hand they could weigh - I weighed the Wiseco pistons (for balanced pairs), but not the std pistons - just out of interest really.... The Wiseco 1186 pistons weigh 237.8g average. Ta very much Oily

Either would work. If you keep the feeds correct for each pair of coils, which you've done and they're linked in series properly as you show - both would work - the coils aren't pole sensitive. I think I connected mine like the second diagram. Putting labels on the feeds from the ecu/cdi and corresponding 2 wires on the new sub-loom makes it easier once you've covered the new loom with loom tape - it avoids connecting the pairs the wrong way round and getting a loud backfire when you're tired and putting things back together - like I did - I was wide awake very quickly ! It wasn't helped by the fact I used the same wire coding for both pairs of coils, if you use the same coding as the bike's, you wouldn't need to label the loom ends. I love the conversion, it works really well and is so much neater.

Don't do it ! - weighs a ton, has no advantage over dual swinger, hard to get the suspension to work as well as std linkage setup and it's from a H**da........

All the oil cooled engines (not GSX1400) will bolt into your frame, earlier 1052 cc 1100, later 1127cc GSXR and GSX1100F - 1157cc bandit 1200 . The engines are the same size externally, apart from barrel height - this makes a 7/11. You can use your cylinder head on the big capacity engines for a power boost. Welcome to the world of the oil cooled Suzukis - There's more details that can be found on the search facility, owners may add some detail too - it's 4am and my bed's calling me !

I go along with Banoffee - the radial m/cylinder from 1000 K5 - on, 750/600 K6 - on , work very well with the 4 pot Nissins and good HH pads.

Thanks for the video D.sunc ! always like a bit of GSXR action ..... are you on a bike with 1100 engine and a 6 speed box ? - gaps between the gears seem different - could just be getting old and senile though ! The 750 Showa usd forks were brilliant, much better action than the 1100's - team Yoshi raced with the 4 pot Nissins for a few seasons - make sure the pistons move freely and aren't crudded up, the late radial master cylinders work really well with the 4 pots, EBC HH pads work really well and SBS too (for road work)

I was surprised how much effect they made BD - I guess by moving away from standard engine set up means it's worth altering the amount of resistance caused by the vent pipe length/or slight restriction - at least it's quick and cheap to experiment, makes a change !

Just thought I'd share something I did to finally get my 40mm BST carbs' on/off throttle response really smooth. The bike has been freed up on intake and exhaust, plus a bit of porting. I have a Factorypro config 3.0 kit (normally for pods) and had got the carburation pretty good - good tick over, nice pick up on the needle and pulled good and strong on the mains, but there was a hesitation as the butterflies were just cracked open - fine when having fun, but it was always there when pootling round (has to be done sometimes !). Over time I fiddled around with all the normal things to sort it, different pilots, every option of the pilot screws, check/recheck of fuel levels/float heights, carbs balanced several times - even checked electrics..... Anyway - my bike has never had any carb vent hoses fitted and just for the sake of it I fitted some and found they affect carburation - the hoses are meant to be pretty long and fitted over the top of the airbox. I didn't have enough tubing to do both, so experimented with different lengths, 4 inch lengths of 6mm bore with plastic pipe narrowing the ends to 4mm have completely cured the slight hesitation on/off throttle (would've been easier to fit 2 x1foot lengths of hose). The bottom end is stronger, really good smooth urge and the mid/high rev performance is as good as ever - 'kin result.. I think the big cv carbs are sensitive to the vent hoses, especially when the bike starts to be altered from standard, as when it was standard, it was pretty smooth - if heavy and not that powerful. Sorry I didn't take any photos - the vents are the upper ones between 1/2 and 3/4 carbs, they keep the float bowls at atmospheric pressure, I guess the standard hoses cause a slight restriction/damping effect compared with open vents.

All swappable H, the world's your oyster !

Top man Mac ! - your patience and work should pay off with a neat , trouble free conversion.

1127 engine, has small cams which limited rwhp to just under 100hp - heavy beasty, but pulled well from tick over. GSX1100F cams would add a shove but keep the grunty delivery... just thinking ahead !

Could be many things Bud, sounds like a wiring fault - could be a bad earth strap, corroded terminals, damaged loom. It needs a session with a multi-meter to see where the problem is - or if electrics aren't your favourite thing, you'll have to get an auto/motorcycle electrical specialist to check it over - if you have a friendly electrician, they should be able to spot the problem with the help of a wiring diagram etc. It maybe components, but it sounds like a wiring fault. Good luck !

Not too much has happened in oil cooler design since our engines were made - oil still loses heat at the same rate too - you can increase the surface area of the cooler though, eg. the Slingshot GSXRs had a curved oil cooler that had a greater surface area , alterations probably need to be made if you fit a larger cooler. Our bike's oil coolers help with heat control, but most of the cooling will be from the engine fins. Unless you live in a hot part of the world, or your engine is heavily tuned, the original size works okay - fitting a larger cooler isn't going to hurt though, some modded motors have a second cooler fitted. I was just writing a reply and saw the good man, FBOB , had replied - he's done plenty of builds using the trusty OC engines.

Nylon's great - the slides and runners wear a bit - but the needle and spacer are held in place by the spring as you say - nice work.

I reckon that would be the X rated video GSX ! - with Jim Whitham saying ' fooking hell' a lot...!

I've got an Armstrong BKR820 rear disc - it fits Slingshot 750/1100 onward and B12s , plus others - all 240mm od and the bolt spacing is the same, even the GSXR750L2 rear wheel I've got has the same bolt spacing, so I could use the BKR820 disc and original hanger bracket etc - sorted !

That's close Mac - might add a bit more resistance via the loom ..... no worries for a Slingshot, anyone done this to their Slabby ? - would be best to get input from someone who's put some miles on the earlier version . There's scope in everything on our bikes , you'd think that would be okay - someone ? - I have heard of someone fitting a resistor to give a middle reading.

Just watched this, thought a few others might enjoy it too - had been looking around for this video for a while and found a good chap has posted it on youtube. I don't know where they got the weight figures from - the wet weights should be cbr - 457 lbs 1100N - 547lbs - still a massive difference and to be fair the cbr did feel very light back then. I think Keith Huewen quoted the Gurls blouse at pretty much it's claimed dry weight - 185kg or 407lbs. here's the link

She's a looker - the colours suit the bike really well ..... good choice with the housekeeping money, okay you might get a bit hungry, but look at that exhaust !!! worth a grumbling stomach any day. The trouble with food is that it only lasts a short while, whereas the exhaust is the gift that keeps on giving - shitty horrible day outside - no problem, polish the bike and look contentedly at your exhaust....

Got to be careful which coils you buy/how many ohms they'll give you when fitted in series Mac. Slabbies' cdi boxes are made to have coils that have 3 - 5 ohms of resistance, Slingshots are made for 2.4 - 3.2 ohms (there will be a bit of tolerance though). If the coils you've bought don't have enough resistance, you will risk frying your ignitor box. The early GSXR K1 - K5 type stick coils are fine for Slingshots/B12s and are about the right length - the srad stick coils for example have a lower resistance. Make sure you measure the resistance at the terminals of the mini-loom you make for the stick coils, if it's in the ballpark then you're good to go. I did a bit of research and measurements before I did my conversion a few years ago, the new version works well - but be careful which coils are used and measure what you've got before starting your bike. I used the dust covers from the top of the original plug caps, opened them up a bit and fitted them to the stick coils - this keeps the coils from rattling lose. I don't use the screw on cap on my plugs.

Not sure about the tail (can't see much), but is that an ally tank he's got there ? - that's my next project........ hmmm, I like aluminium tanks !

Some very good advice given - has to be intake side, could be air leaking in via seals in intake boots/pilot screw seals (often doesn't show when balancing carbs) - or as been suggested, pilot system/float height etc - what colour are the spark plugs on 3 & 4 ?

Sounds like you have a rich stumble, with it getting worse with increasing temperature.

A very smart machine Blue - what's been done to the engine ?