Oilyspanner

Oil cooled engines exhaust and intake spacings are all the same, water-cooled engines are different. Others have used w/c carbs using a combination of inlet rubbers to re-align the carbs - a search on here should reveal more, it was mentioned on here a while ago. 40mm carbs need either their own size boots, or the 38mm ones from the 750 - you can normally squeeze 2mm larger carbs into the rubbers, 36mm ones will be a step too far. 40mm carbs will really need the inlets to the ports matched to the big carbs, else the ridge will muck up air flow and they never seem to work very well.

The 1100 L - WR had 52/56mm diameter forks at the clamps with 41mm sliders, after that they went to 50/55mm with 43mm sliders. 750s had 50/54mm forks which are around an inch or so shorter.

I think the cases have to be bored out a tad to accommodate the larger liners of 1157on the 1052. Capacity will be 1225cc with 58mm stroke.

1246 is the largest you can go with B12 liners (82mm bore) - and 1216 is the most with 1127 liners. A n 1186 or 1216 with a nicely flowed head will produce more power than a larger motor with a standard or reasonable head - the bottom end would be better on the big engine though. The standard valve sizes work well on engines around 1200cc, the further you move away from this the more you'll require to up the valve sizes and alter the cams to get the most from the big engine (gets costly and hotter). Depends what sort of build you're doing ?? Of course a good big engine will produce a lot hp and torque, but more money has to be spent to suit the big capacity. I settled on 1186 for my bike, would've been a 1216 kit, but the 1186 kit came up at the right money and there's little between them anyway. I did research going big, but the extra costs didn't seem attractive ! Be nice to see a serious engine build though . . .

That's really nicely done CGTO - I would never has thought a Blade rear end would look so at home on a Slabbie frame, I'm seriously impressed and I like more standard type bikes...... Top marks that man !

I had to quote that !! - dead true, a waste of a good 1127 engine - like pulling around an extra 25kg sack of potatoes all the time.

A good header and collector section is a must for good power Charlie and after that a 50/51mm (id) link section / baffle seems to work well. The 1100F wasn't shy on the power front, it wasn't restricted like the GSXR1100L,M,N,(restrictive silencers) but the smaller carbs knocked some hp off the top and with slightly softer cams getting 130+hp isn't easy as on the R's. I'll see if I can look out that article tomorrow - John Robbo enjoyed the 7/1100f

Hmmm - nice toys !

Your bike is only producing standard type power, they should produce more than tat with more compression and freer flowing, calibrated carbs - is the exhaust restrictive ? Yours should be into the 120s and with compression that high torque should be bumped up to over 80 lb/ft. How much of a boost depends on what's keeping the power lower than expected at present - could be just a low reading dyno I suppose. I've seen a few 1100F engines pumping out over 120 with very few mods , P.Bikes had one with 36mm carbs (in GSXR750L)in the mid 90's that put out 124hp and that was with a Motad exhaust , not a high performance one, with no other mods.

I just tested an upload from my laptop, same thing for any photos you've got too. I loved the Formula USA bikes, they used 1186 to 1340cc engines, the big engines got a bit hot, as can be seen from the 3 oil coolers on the undressed bike - bloody gorgeous bikes !! big and brutal, could get around a track pretty quickly too - until the rear tyre turned to mush. They tended to use a fairly long swingarm, but they would've played around with the head angle though. NWS fabrications made some really nice s.arms for the Slabbies, they did a gull arm too as I remember, I've got an article around somewhere - good Brit engineering.

Hi Buddy - very smart looking bikes too - the Slabbie is a Japanese market bike by the look of it, it has the extra gauge (fuel), nice looking in the red and black, it doesn't look like it needs much doing to it ?

I'm guessing you've still got the standard type damper, I couldn't find a way to get mine rebuilt. I bought a cheap Taiwan built unit and it fits, although it's near full extent at full lock either side - so it's fine, cheap and much lighter too. My bike doesn't really need a damper, I've uprated the suspension, modern tyres are way better than they were - but whilst I was seeing how hard I could push the bike after the mods I wanted the safety blanket. On a turbo bike with 240hp a longer wheelbase would make your bike more useable, the shorter 750 arm is normally as short as you want to go, even on a conventionally tuned 1100, else putting the power down is too heavily compromised - any pics of your bike ? it sounds a bit different !

GSXRs were/are the most modded bikes, I love your evolved bike IL - the unnatural bikes are the totally rebuilt standard bikes, they rarely existed at the time. It's nice to see bog stock bikes, but a well modded one will be far better to actually ride. My favourite bikes have been ones I've altered to suit me, the mods always have to make a difference how the bike goes, handles and stops. I like the idea of the lightest ever GSXR frame fitted with the potent 1127 engine - nice

Now that's a true keeper . . . . And still being used properly too ! I can spot a few mods, but what have you done over the years ?

New Akrapovic still on a well known auction site, coming with a variety of cans - just checked. I rate them as having the best overall power and are the best made, very light too - about 11lb with the can.

One other thing you'll notice once the suspension is sorted, is that you can trail brake into corners without the bike standing up and wanting to head in some other direction - my bike did this when I first picked it up, not nice at all - at least it made my mind up to buy a Nitron shock and rework the forks almost straight away. It's worth spending a little money to get things right, our bikes tend to be keepers, my N is as much a part of me now as one of my legs ! I think the K's 1 inch shorter swingarm only makes the bike slightly more wheelie prone, it will steer slightly quicker too - stability is still good, it's not really very short and the modern front ends have much sharper geometry, plus our bikes carry more twitch absorbing weight.

As per DS - reworked forks, decent quality rear shock and front/rear set-up , plus tyres makes a huge difference - you can use the bike genuinely hard with no worries. Losing the heavy standard system makes a big difference too, you really notice the drop in weight, I liked the look of the standard twin silencers, but I'd miss the lack of lard and extra urge if I changed back. A well set-up Slingshot is great fun to ride, still takes more effort to hustle than modern stuff, but I bet you'll have a bigger grin after a ride. Nice bike btw !

Another vote for ceramic grease, first used it when installing an exhaust on a GSXR1000K6 at work - must be 10 years ago then, the bike was new - it's good stuff for hot areas, slide fit systems etc.

Interesting stuff MF !

I've been using Ti allen bolts instead of studs/nuts for a few years, never a problem, just don't over-tighten - I just hate studs breaking off, they tend to be forgotten about until one gets stuck, this way I can clean the threads each time the exhaust comes off. If the threads ever weaken I'll have inserts fitted.

I work it out to be 1156.794cc - closer to 1157cc !

The main world market bikes had 38s - here's the codes for the Suzuki markets. The main world market is 01, UK is 02 https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/suzuki-parts/suzuki-country-codes-identification.aspx Here's the parts list for the 1991 bike. http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsxr750-1991-m-e01-e02-e04-e15-16-17-18-21-22-24-25-34-39-53_model13576/partslist/FIG-12.html#results

GSXR750L and M used 38mm carbs - so use those, in the US they had oil cooled N's too, so they would be the same.

A mini moto is stacks lighter than a standard bike, specialised springs might be your only option.

The width in mm and length in cm are normally given eg on GSXR1100 86-88 page it has FRSP (front spring) S3234 = 32mm od and 340mm/34cm length. The original spring rate might be missing on older bikes though. The same period GSXR750 has a spring rate of .58 kg/mm - so it's likely the 1100 ran a slightly higher rate ( .68 ?) being heavier. Racetech are about the only people to openly print these details, been useful to me a few times.