Oilyspanner

Yep, the short strokers have a 20mm small end/pin diameter. The B also has a 4mm longer stroke, so a spacer would need to be used to lift the block. The 600 motor is based on the long stroke 750s with 70mm bore, the 73mm bore and wider liners of the short stroke may mean the cases need to be opened up to fit them in - not done this so someone might confirm this.

Could be failing side stand switch, or the connectors for it - they're just behind the battery box, a green lead (on a single black connector block) and a black/white wire (with bullet connector).

I don't think there was any change to the cams during the life of the 1100F, so all will give a good boost. The plug issue came up last year , Fatblokeonbandit and other multiple dot head converters, said that B12 plugs worked fine.

The cams of the 750F aren't too bad, in Performance Bikes 1995 (I think) their bike made 90 hp at the rear wheel - which is a gnats todger away from the short stroke GSXR. I believe the later 748cc F motors did have slightly better cams than the early ones, or at least I seem to remember reading it in the press blurb. The 1100F cams are a fair bit better than the B12 cams and the 750F won't be too far off.

I take it the plugs on 1 and 2 are sooty/wet ? and the carbs balanced, 1 and 2 are a pair....just trying to think !

Could still be blocked pilot passages on 1 and 2, leaking pilot screw seals on those carbs or float heights wrong on them. You seem to have checked other likely possibles. You probably aren't far away from having it running properly, but most likely you'll need to take the carbs off again and go through the carbs really carefully - it doesn't take much to muck things up. Is the bike fairly standard, or running pods etc ?

Can't beat a bit of hot oily action ! - but that's another story . . . 15 seconds off - imagine with light wheels, fancy suspension, better brakes, close ratio box - that has to be worth another 5 seconds ? Hmmm

I was watching a few Peter Smith videos on youtube and thought others might enjoy them too. Here's the link for one of them, you can get the others from there - he posted quite a few - he's a good rider and his bike doesn't hang about ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8n125FgW6k

Nice ! she's one to be proud of Mack

I think the 1400 has different bore centres, definitely a much longer stroke and the exhaust system is double walled to stop 'bluing' - so it's damn heavy, heavier than the duel silencer 1100's, which is heavy itself ! Use d.pipes from the related engines - GSXR 750/1100 or GSX750/1100F, they'll all need a little work, but the basic dimensions are all similar - the 1400 is a separate engine to the other oil cooled ones. I accidentally pressed the italic button, so the letters are on the slant ! Fixed that for you - CC

I had a thought Matt , if you have the 'worse case scenario' - you could fit the B12 pistons / barrels and then fit a dot head to restore compression (could use GSXF750 head, as is cheaper). If you use the 40mm carbs, you could use the M's rubbers, match the intakes to these with a dremel and you'll have a fit engine again.

If it's not too much it wouldn't be a bad bike to have in the garage, some people are asking too much, mainly because of the link with 1127 GSXRs - they are comfy though.

The head volumes of bandits and 1100s are the same, but B12 pistons are flatter, not much of a crown - it's the lack of a crown that lowers comp. even though the bore is a mm larger - could have the head milled down to bump it up again ? You're doing the right thing Matt, check valve clearances so you can narrow down what's at fault. Would be good to go a leak down test too - a friendly mechanic ?

Well remembered ! I'd forgotten about them, I just have a strong memory of the white star on Reg's helmet coming out the gloom on the deep howl of the big Suzook - and the wet !

Yep, lovely pics Bud ! Skoal Bandit is the Heron Suzuki bike - I remember seeing Roger M. riding it at a wet Thruxton, it ate up and spat out the other bikes

On a lot of the frames you'll find an 'E' sticker - mines got E2 on it, E2 being UK market, E1 is world wide non restricted. This is useful for bikes with no stickers, using engine codes https://sites.google.com/site/suzukitechnical/suzuki/sacs-enginecodes as is this is the list of markets and codes https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/suzuki-parts/suzuki-country-codes-identification.aspx It's not so hard to find the origins, finding what was used to restrict them can be more troublesome. It's also true a race tune or turbo ensures unrestricted performance . . . .

RF900/gsxr1100 1990-1998, gsxr750 1990-1995 - all have 20mm axle /same hub width and many others fit with a little work. The straight spoke wheels of the bikes mentioned are direct fit, the slingshot wheels might need the rhs spacing altered a tad. I've got RF900 wheels on my 1100N and they just needed an RF rear caliper mount to line up. B12 take their speed from the gearbox sprocket, the other bikes use the front wheel .

I guess riding around on a standard B12 isn't going to win many kudos points !! BUT : I say thank fook Suzuki made the Bandit, helped convert riders to Suzuki/SACS , plus it gave us a long production run of great motors. I rather see a cosmetically modded Bandit than many of the mutilated 'I'll cut the rear sub frame off me GSXR and wing it' offerings out there. For every great altered GSXR there's several munters Those modified B12s above do look good though Viz/CC

Yep - the 1988 cams are the better of the two, the 1989 exhaust cam isn't quite as radical - although 1100 cams are pretty much the same as the 1988 750J cams, very hard to measure any difference. Any of the 3 would wake up a B12 motor.

Rare bike Swirl, I don't know anyone who spiced one up, but : The 1100G had soft cams, the softest of the 1127 engines, so the dot cams would add to the second half of the rev range. I couldn't remember what c.ratio they had so looked it up, they had 10:1, so the dot head will add some more compression - which is always good ! I suppose the dot head might make the carbs close to frame/tank, it can on some bikes. you've got 2 lots of cam sprockets, so in any event you'll be okay whatever the cam chain. Here's the link to the spec I looked up, nice article from Bike magazine at the bottom - I didn't know the 1100G had a balance shaft either. http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/suzu/suzuki_gsx1100g 91.htm

Yep, do the deal Mack - how many times have all of us wished we'd bought something when we had the chance ? - this is one of those chances ! In the words of CC - buy buy buy !!

There's quite a few differences between the K/L and the M/N , better off with a K or L obviously. Your K looks to be in pretty good condition, any donor parts are likely to be in a worse state than yours. As has been mentioned, you could buy the M for the next project, especially if it's the right sort of price ? ! Parts for our bikes are pretty plentiful, so any parts you do need can be bought either new or as very good used parts as and when needed. It's your call, but that's what I'd do . .

Good advice from G1460 - check the condition of the front tyre, some tyres feel awful when worn, they wear in the half/ 2 thirds from middle (which wears slowly). This causes a 'falling' feeling when starting to lean, as you go from one profile to another. A slack front tyre just feels 'kin' terrible as it moves on the carcass , it tends to slow down steering input though - check it's got 36 psi in it - less than 30 psi makes the feel crappy.

Here's a link that shows items in the kit from Dynojet, you'll need to click on downloads and it'll show list of contents http://dynojet.co.uk/djs-3336-jet-kit-stage-3

Well serviced Nissin calipers, a set of hoses and EBC HH pads work really well for me too - feel really strong now, the master cylinder has been over - hauled too - the EBC HH pads made the most of the other work when I fitted them. Michelin Pilot Power tyres work really well on my bike btw .