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1109 makes for a sweet engine size on the 1052. You'll miss out on the 12:1 compression ratio of a big bore piston kit - a cheap half way house- you'll get gains but not as good as a BB kit and used pistons can be hit or miss. Would really need to re-ring the pistons too. If you got an engineering firm to skim the head and get the head flowed, you could gain much more.

Those can-o-tunas are growing on me, I'm getting old ! - comfy seat and bars, torquey engine . . . . might have to get one, 1216 kit too . . .hmmm !!

It really is bad, items that cost pence to make . . . bet the genuine Suzuki air to fill the crankcase void costs a fortune ! The poor quality finish on some of the fixings always costs extra too, I was forced to slum it and buy some cheaper Ti stuff the other week !!

And the good thing about Europe is no extra VAT etc - sounds good, still bloody steep . . . . .

'Kin hell FBOB - sounds like we're getting the 'bend over sir, this might hurt a bit' treatment. As TedM has said, look abroad and often even with VAT added to everything it can save a goodly bit. I bought my new valve springs from the US, even with the import VAT it worked out £40 cheaper.

Yep, £8 is stupid for a 50p spring - but the length and strength are an unknown - just ordered one up myself ! I've got a fair bit invested in my 1100N now, so £8 is a cheap insurance, still feel like I've been robbed as you rightly say . . . . .

I've only heard fiend of a friend of a friend type rumours of any on the road and the only real examples from drag racers - for £8 Nick, I'd just replace them any way, all springs lose strength over time/use and they're not a strong spring to start off with - should renew mine too, thanks for the reminder !

You can put injector cleaner in the petrol and see if that helps - I've normally ended up stripping the carbs though, once you know they're clean and well set, any other problems will be somewhere else . . . . lacquer in the small orifices can be tough to clear and the pilot fuel screw adjuster seals can perish too.

I reckon it's always a good idea to clean out the carbs of a bike that's stood up for a while - especially one that's been garaged for 15 years. The pilot jet passageways don't take much to get blocked, or partly blocked. The small holes in front of the carb butterfly are very good at getting gunked up !

Rare condition - very nice . .

Sorry FBOB, scan read it - should've realised that the 7mm width was on the narrow side for a wheel bearing !!

I think 6204 bearings are 20 x 47 x 14mm - I fitted some to my rear wheel a few months ago. The hub bearing is 25 x 62 x 17mm(I just looked it up). FBOB does have some fancy wheels and stuff, he's spot on with the bearing numbers, but I think the bearing dimensions are from one of his specials ! http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsxr1100-1992-n_model13596/partslist/FIG-53.html#results This is what I used to check the hub bearing size - a good site for checking stuff.

Are you going with liners and big pistons - 884/907 ? - they're good motors when done well.

Welcome aboard ! I would give the old girl a good going through before starting - oil, filter, plugs, valve clearances and check the carbs' small orifices are clear and give them a good clean. It sounds like the bike has pod filters fitted if the last owner said it might need a kit - that or the carbs were just playing misbehaving ! Like the guys have said, the GSX1100F motor is a lovely unit and the world's your mollusc as far as enhancements go.

The later 750F used the long stroke motor, so any downpipes/ collectors from GSXR 750 '85 - '87 and '90/'91 should be okay. 1100 systems will fit, but will hang low, some owners have fitted them, different makes fitting better than others. Some models have different shaped sumps though, I can't remember what design the dear old 750F has. Port spacing is the same on Oilers, which was kind of Suzuki !

Good stuff Buddy ! the bike looks like it could've run the race again, I dare say the race took a bit more out of you though - thanks for the photos of the true GSXR spirit. Hope you find it again.

Nice bit of art Vizman ! Venom me old Buddy, you've been at the end of some leg pulling, some good inventive stuff too ! The boring bit : Our dear old bikes don't know what gear they're in (no gear position sensor), unlike some end of the 90s and beyond bikes - they produce the same power in every gear - hence the mythical status thing. I've read about a wheelie wire in the past, you can work right through your loom, there's no such thing . Later fuel injected bikes are another matter, but it was never about anti wheelie even then - as has been said, more about noise. Another myth is early Hayabusa 'full power', you see it in adverts- speed cap in sixth, yes, power cap no - if anything later bikes are smoother and more powerful . . . . another one is that 1100K had better cams - it made more power because the silencers on later ones had an extra baffle (more restrictive). A lighter note : I did see a Unicorn once, it was when I use to worship the Goddess 'Stella' and after a long night of worshipping I'm sure I saw a Unicorn, just before passing out into a righteous slumber ! - I didn't see a pink wire though, but an extra 1/2 hour of worship would've allowed me to see it and the Pixies of course . . . and ultimately A and E

All the short stroke 750 motors have the slightly raised entry to the inlet valves, so their rubbers would allow for this entry point (just my guess, haven't done this myself). Perhaps 1100f rubbers, or any of the smaller carb, long stroke 750 variants would be better ? You're very right about not wanting 'walls' in the way for the intake charge, a good way to lose power and muck up the carburation. . .

The long stroke 750 heads have smaller valves than the 1100s, so aren't better. The 750J/K has the larger valves like the 1100 motor and when fitted to an 1052/1127/1156 engine produces a decent gain in power, most of the gain is due to the smaller combustion chamber/higher compression. The 1127 and 1156 heads aren't bad, with equal compression these heads would be very close to the short stroke head. I don't think you can fit the short stroke head to the long stroke 750 barrels due to valves and proximity to liners. As you will fit different liners for the 907 engine you probably could - I haven't done this on an oil cooled motor. What I did have was a water cooled GSXR907 WR SP - JE pistons and carried out by Performoto, this was in 1995. The SP version of the WR had 40mm TMR carbs, close ratio gearbox among other things, the close ratio gearbox wasn't necessary on the 907 engine. I had a full race Termignoni exhaust system and was jetted by the mechanic that set-up Paul Denning's 884cc version. When first run in it was brilliant, even with the largest gearbox sprocket fitted it revved out in top and ate ZZR1100s. Revving out as easily as the 750 engine made it break gudgeon pins after a couple thousand miles or so. The compression was gradually reduced and the engine not so eager to rip through the upper mid range. The bike made close to 140 hp - Paul Dennings' , with some head work ,made around 150hp. I sold it after a year and a couple of g.pin failures. The conversion utterly changed the power delivery, if the bike didn't rev to 13500 so easily it would've lasted longer. Even the carbs worked really well, it was so much quicker than my mates' near standard 750WR it was embarrassing (for him !).

They should click, hopefully they're not broken off inside. Wind them in until they're fully seated (won't screw in further), don't force them they're not strong, then turn them out 2 turns - use this as your standard setting. As has been said, you won't see any difference, but you should feel the difference going over a bump. Anti-clockwise is softer and clockwise firmer, as yours don't click, make adjustments of 1/4 turn on each and see how they feel. The damping adjusters trim the action of the spring - compression slows the compression of the spring/fork and rebound how quickly the spring/fork recovers after being compressed. Set your sag first, get a mate to help - measure bottom yoke clamp to dust seal length with all weight taken off of the forks - then measure the distance again with the bike upright, you normally look for a difference of about 35mm (conventional forks might be 5mm more). With you on it the measurement should drop another 10mm or so. The distances can be altered by winding in or out the pre-load adjusters at the top of the forks (17mm hex drive I think, the screw adjuster right at the top is the re-bound adjuster).

I took the height measurement from the mid point, it was 20cm at the reinforced ends - guess I should've counted the rows !

My 1100s' cooler is 40 x 18cm - the 40 is measuring it straight though and of course it's curved, it'll be the same width as the 750 though.

Haven't got the manual for the B12 - but it's almost certainly the middle groove of the 5 - it is on the Rs' carbs anyway . . . .

You sometimes see them advertised around, getting rare though.

I'm sure there will be other dog bones of the length needed - I've never seen a list of lengths though. May be we could compile a list on here ?