

TonyGee
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Everything posted by TonyGee
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its difficult to diagnose problems over the net, pic's might help. if I was close to you I would gladly help. where are you ?
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Hi Fia, it sounds like you don't know much about bikes and how they work !!! im not knocking you for having a go but it might be best to take it to someone who knows what they are doing, and you can learn form them. if you make a mistake on a bike it can danger your life.
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try dropping the needles slightly.
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just take your time and make sure the rings are in place, the thin oil control ring can pop out and get trapped between the piston and the bore, let gravity help with gentle taps with your hand on the top of the cylinders.
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as wraith says, its the way ive always done it. put 2 blocks of wood under the middle 2 pistons and then carefully slid the cylinders over. im the same never got on with the ring clamps so an old blunt screwdriver works for me with plenty of oil round the cylinder taper.
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it'll be a keeper then
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glad its sorted but that dealer in the video should be shot for trying to sell a bike with that noise !!!! is he deaf
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mental !!!!! ive got a 1400 but never thought they need a turbo with all the torque they have
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yeah you have to pull the barrel out first, once out put the key in all the way then you can see which if any of the sliding plates stick out from the edge of the barrel if a plate is sticking out it will need to be filed back till its flush, sometimes you can swap em about, but be careful of the very tiny springs as they can drop out and easily be lost
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fiddley but doable, once the barrel is out and the key is in you will see which sliding plates need filing down or swapping about.
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water cooled, whats that ????? leave it oil cooled and convert it to F.I.
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has it got a PRI position on the tap ? if so the fuel should flow free to the carbs.
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That gives me the heebie-jeebies
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my GSX11 was doing the same thing wraith, I weakened the mixture on the screws half a turn and its almost gone, doesn't effect the ride and rev's right through with no issues. I could mess with the jets or needles but it doesn't bother me. just a tad rich.
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try vacuum balancing
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then it should be entered into the dictionary
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the first cam chain I replaced waaaaay back in the 80's on an XS250 came with only a split link !!!!!!
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I wouldn't like to say for definite if it should be plugged or not !!! but when the cover is on it will act like a blanking plug.
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ive seen a few crankcases on the bay and everyone has no blanking plug, if they are a tighish fit then they wouldn't normally fall out, but if they are loose then yeah they could just slide out, nothing in the parts diagram ??? did they maybe do away with them and rely on the cover to blank them off ?
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not quite but we are all made from the same stuff as one
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if I remember right I think its Brown !!!!
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yes Hyvo's are fun !!!!! I have a little splitter for them which has a small pin. the fun bit is putting the very small plates in when you are working on the head, the big danger is to drop a plate down the cam chain tunnel !!!!!! use a shit load of rags in every hole just in case