Joseph

On W bikes in standard form the "carb pipe" exits just around the intake boot of the airbox

Indeed a gsx1100 could be an option. But basically, if you can afford to pay and stock it, it's worth squirrelling it away. You already know that if you pass on it, next month there will be an 1135 engine 2 towns away from you that is going to be listed on eGay or something

Indeed @Crassi would side with you on that theory. On my 1216 bike (semi faired, these air tubes not fitted), i have a sump oil temp sender and a cylinder head temp sender and there is around 10°C difference between the 2. I could try fitting the head cooling tube maybe that could help, it could give an answer as to it's efficiency. I think general consensus is that if the factory deemed that the technical need justified the extra cost, it is of use on the bike

Yeah the guy was stuck for space turns out he needed to clear out the space last minute A bunch of parts i need but never got round to looking for are in the stack and the rest will come in at some point.

Went to pick up a swingarm to replace the one on the bike, but got a bit more than expected Will filter through all this but the frames have paperwork

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/12552-1200-bandit-wiring-diagram/

Yes !

Something like Loctite MR5972 probably Theres another one i didn't bookmark, i know they use it to seal the half cases of Porsche or other split case engines. It's main trick, is that it is the contact between metals that polymerises the substance, otherwise it is oil soluble. The idea being that if any extra seeps out on the internal side of the engine, dry gummy stuff won't risk falling off and blocking an oilway or such

You could go GSXR 1000 K1 header and work from there on the link pipe and can It's a "titanium" header and has been sucessfully adapted to oil cooled GSXR, someone with more expertise may be able to advise on that subject

Have you checked the parts microfiches ?

OK well these have such a nice design overall, it's best to focus on "chassis" mods when customising them. @TonyGeeshows a good example

Well the usual trick is to bin the small covers under the seat, cut the end off, shorten it accordingly and weld the end to move the tail unit so it joins the side panels directly. Thats quite straightforward and looks good Other than that it's going to be a full build of a subframe. Do you have any ideas to go from ?

I think it is always a 2 pin flasher for oil cooled bikes The wires that go from the tiny bulb holder should be black and light green, those tap into the same colour wires that go to feed the left and right side indicators on the bike. Maybe the wire that links to the right indicators (the green one i think) has a problem ?

On these, the dashboard indicator light bulb is wired to each of 12v feeds of the actual indicator bulbs, unlike the other warning lights of the dash who all have a common earth connection. I would check the earths again as suggested by Tony, because a bad earth is know to play with the flashing ability, and check continuity of the wires of the dash bulb to the wires of the indicators either side

Well what kind of deal is that ? Just find the engine you are going to use in the bike, and do the same job to it

553mm from spindle to spindle for the swingarm I'm sure some "expert" will come along soon and tell you that any triple will fit if you have sandpaper

Well other than taking the head off to measure the cylinders ? Oil capacity on the clutch cover is nothing to go by since they are easily swapped over Whats the loan for ? Use ? Mock up in frame ?

Looks like it's not. RS34 : 40mm = BST34 and their rubbers RS36-RS38 : 42mm = BST36 and their rubbers Still don't get why you're measuring rubbers to figure out what you need rather than measuring BST carb stubs, some of which are identical in OD as the RS and using the relevant rubbers ? And also why incorrect info is published in your "final" guide ?

If it's 34 and 36 RS you are mentioning, it's the RS36 and RS38 that both have 42mm stub OD, the RS34 have a 40mm stub OD (As per www.mikunioz.com who sell the whole range and provide all the fitting dimensions)

Well get ready to spend then

We won't hold that against you

They are indeed very good for the money and massive improvement over the 6 pot

Makes no difference i think, just you need to buy shit when valves need doing on a shim head. V713 is the '91/M engine that started using shims

Good score

You will never really get with powdercoat the effect of the anodized alloy the frame originally has. Bear that in mind to not be too disappointed I had mine done in a colour that my PC guy had called "nickel" and had a satin lacquer over it. It's OK, but the bike would be so much cooler with the real finish (if you're being picky) So indeed best bet is to ask them what they've got, they should have sample postcard size plates with all their colours, mine had an array of "metal effects" i could choose from