Joseph

If you don't have the original fairings, its a good occasion to fit yoshi replica fairings for slabside GSXR Simple and only required reason : They look awesome

I would say it's the clock CPU that deals with translating the sprocket sensor. Check if the part number for the sprocket bit are the same between the 6 and the 12 and you'll probably get the answer you need

I really can't see what they can legally do with that unless they actually catch you doing it. I'm guessing nothing

Nope it won't correct mate, thats one of the forbidden words on here ahaha Re the swingarm its all down to what style you're looking for, i do like the katana arm as i said the design is really nice for a stock arm. But beefier stuff is available although i've read the bandit isnt exactly super stiff

Yes thats the one

But indeed if you're staying with twin shocks as @Swiss Tonisaid the best option is the alloy Katana swingarm. Looks nicer than the bandit one too and does has room for slightly larger wheels

Not the kind of part you want to see out of it's sealed package anyway, i mean, potential crud between the layers doesn't sound ideal ?

Nah, that'll be the '93 black purple pink haha

Nope. Well, not on the bike yet. It has been adapted to the spare cylinder head but i'm strapped for cash at the moment so this bike will have to wait a bit

Yeah i would just need to get all the crud off it to be able yo trace it Alloy sheet screen ? You definitely wouldnt want to front end that bike, it would have your head off

I think i've got an old one that would probably polish up well

The restricted watercooled 750 for the french market has the following specific to limit HP - ECU - Exhaust header - camshafts German market wasn't restricted as far as i'm aware ? But if yours is lowered to 104 HP those are the main points that will probably need looking at

750W swingarm is 530mm 1100W swingarm is 585 mm From spindle to spindle

Or it might not

Petrol dabbed on using a new paintbrush ?

Looks like its time to remove and check and grease ?

Hey there. Thanks for your extra tips. I've been laid off work recently so this Ill not be able to happen in extensively big ways, i will build it in base form 7/9 and take it from there

What model exactly ?

Yeah just take it all off and lay down a used harness on which you can tape whats what and go from there. The wiring on these is minimal. Mostly just power to lightbulbs

Brand new wiring loom is around 300 bucks at the stealership. That would definitely be a hassle free solution A clean one should be landed for less than that. I wouldn't bother messing around wkth the one thats currently on the bike Other than that it doesn't look like it needs much work

I have the following : Intake min. 35mm Exhaust min. 37.8mm Free length when off the engine

I would stay with a RWU fork on a subtle build like this

Ok I will check both, i did give the bearings a bit of a tighten this weekend, it did improve but still a bit there so maybe the rest is the brakes as you describe @MeanBean49

Hello The deal : K7 fork on '91 11R frame. I'm in the teething process of test rides to make sure it's all good. Obviously i fitted new taper roller bearings during the rebuild I have tightened it all up to what i believe is correct I still however have a clunky loose feel on the front end when i push the bike and brake ?