Joseph

Hi As described in the title, i seem to think i have seen it done before but can't find any photo evidence due to the blandness of the key words. The K rim has a largely offset hub towards the chain side, hence me wondering if it can be done ? If anyone has photos of that set up or knows the tricks to make it work that would be great Thanks

Stock EFE indeed is literally the size of a postcard

The general thought is that smaller carbs improve low down torque at the expense of HP higher up, whereas large carbs will provide higher RPM HP at the expense of low down torque

Yes that will just be a GSX1100 exh. cam that will have been fitted to your EFE head

I would ask your mate to have it back or sell it and buy the right year part. It's just a standard shock not exactly a race pro Nitron or Ohlins ttx

Always will be whatever the swap i think

Oooh i would have loved to land that

It compresses the crap out of the quality though, even on small size files. I host them elsewhere and add the link Anyway, great job on the swingarm

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/16467-fork-identification-help/

https://www.xexpress.fr/marque-suzuki.html You need to open an account. Otherwise, a- you can't order. b- you don't see the discounted price. Then, pick up the suzuki ref of each part you want, put it in the search engine, and add it to the basket. You need to use this format (with the dash) otherwise it won't find the ref you put in : so for the pipe order : 13101-40C00 13102-40C00 13103-40C00 13104-40C00 Total amount VAT included for real original Suzuki parts : Just over £100 It's a company based in the Netherlands so shipping is like flat rate 15€, but compared to the prices everyone on here is stating from "Suzuki friendly" shops in the UK it's worth it. This website is a mild headache to use, and you need to edit the quantities you need once your basket is full of everything you want, it takes a while to complete an order 'cause you have to search and note down all the Suzuki part number from the fiches. I buy all my spares from them when it comes to original parts, it all gets delivered with the real wrapping and suzuki sticker. Worth the effort, but time is money. i did a quote for all the bottom end bearings for a B12 2 days ago. The usual places it was around 375€, with these guys 250€... Sometimes there is backorder on parts, but they are reactive, let you know, and you always end up getting the stuff. If not, it's a no quibble refund

If you buy OE generic stuff from places like suzuki "performance" spares who mark stuff up liberally it's not going to be the cheapest route to take indeed. They are still available each for 25-30€ VAT incl. for OE parts depending on which engine you are looking to equip.

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/2102-the-rf900-from-hack-to-track/?tab=comments#comment-23729

Thats cool first hand info. Confirms that RS 34 should be massive on a B12 then

11 teapot and slabs had 34s so it is simply a question of where you want your torque/power curve ratio, not so much a such and such diameter isn't enough for such and such a size of engine ?

My 1216 with massaged head, cams and RS38 does 48.5 mpg doing fast riding on long distance main road travel with no attention to fuel economy as far as throttle use is concerned. Haven't dynoed it but i'm guessing similar figures can be expected.

Not being equipped with an ultrasonic cleaner and only having basic tools. I attempted what @Swiss Tonisuggests, only to see it get stuck deeper in the bore. I ended up drilling and tapping the alloy piston and managed to pull it out with a long bolt that i screwed into it along with a bit of heat. This was a common rear GSXR MC, so loss wasn't going to be much. Turns out the spiral groove of the piston was caked with sticky residue. Bearing in mind in my case rebuild kits contain all the internals it didn't seem like much of an issue to proceed via destructive measures for the piston, but i'm not a mechanic Classic boiling water with the lid on does sound good though.

On my GSXR i'm running what was initially a race engine 1216 GSXR with 38 mikunis and it is really excellent and rideable in all conditions. In your case I would leave the B12 engine in and fit 34 flatslides to it if you're looking for lowrange power and torque.

Digging day, sorry Price aside, would reanodising in clear provide any finish issue ? I take it that it is only colour anodising that can prove difficult on different grades of alloy and be uneven ?

Sorry a bit late to the party Clear coat as in sprayed on 2K ? Not clear powdercoat ? Do you have any experience on how your finish will hold up ?

I'd say that my "if the tight ass factory spent the money, it is of use" is worthy of any physics explanations

Xjr1300

Bandit swingarm is a bit of a paper clip in terms of strength. You may want to start off with something beefier

They warp like shit. If you plan on bracing it, it will need bracing