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Sploofanoofa

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  1. Yes, I have an engine, been sat 22 year and fooked. Going to do the same job but waiting for a piston kit and other bits to arrive. Not been given a date for recieving, hence borrowing an engine to get me about and sorted for what's left of the summer. Not going to bother if its not the motor its meant to be.
  2. Niceone, cheers for the reply folks. Will have a ganders. The deal was if I use it, I have to strip, prep and respray it. I have done many motors and it is very time consuming to achieve long, lasting, show worthy results. So I think you can see where I'm comming from lol. Cheers all.
  3. No problem really, just a query as to interchangeability of parts really as have to swap bits over etc. Will an unknown sump fit off a 600 fit a 1052 motor etc etc...if that is what it essentially is. Trying to allieviate potential ballache time wastage really. I'm more adapted to the air cooled zooks in all honesty.
  4. True, its for use until bits arrive for my engine. Don't know when they'll arrive so have been loaned one. Engine runs nice and strong, but wondering about cross compatability of parts between engines etc. cheers
  5. Yo! Have a bit of a wierd one going on with id'ing a slabside 1100 engine. Been loaned a 1052 motor, however the displacement has been scrubbed off the barrels and the crankcases are stamped beginning with N, which translates as a 600cc engine. The clutch cover casing has 4000ml for the oil capacity, whereas my 1052 motor has 3300ml. The cam cover breather exits to the left on the loan engine and a slabbie on the right of the cam chain tunnel facing rearwards. Sprocket cover looks slabbo, but the sump pan oil cooler ports exit at the front of the sump on this one, not the underside as per 1052. The carbs that came with the engine are 38mm, way to big for a standard slab. assured engine was 1052, but having doubts. Any other info to help ID would be greatly received. Cheers.
  6. Worth a go. might need lifting/lowering/shimming etc. Easy enough. Sounds like your pretty close. Always time consuming ironing out the niggles. Hang in there, you'll get it sorted
  7. ledar also do kits as well that restrict flow in the main air jet. Never been a fan of those however...
  8. Not sure if youve got this sorted yet, but i use 10w , and leave a measurement of 100mm with the spring out and the stanchion compressed into the leg. Level measured from top of stanchion as per usual. If that helps?
  9. Ive had good results using 135 mikuni mains, good quality pod filters and standard needles on third clip. Good, free flowing 4-1 exhaust. This is all dependant on setup as all bikes will differ. What brand are your main jets? Ensure your ignition system is functioning correctly including timing. Nice fat blue spark etc. Most brands of jets don't correspond with each other as with regards to exact sizes. There are good comparison jet charts online that cross reference mikuni, kehin and dynojet etc. Best bet is to get it as close as you can, then pop it on a dyno to be sure everythings happy. Have you carried out a plug chop in the range it gets a bit fluffy? Plug chop is a great indication for a rich or lean condition in a problematic area.
  10. +1 on the 1168 kit. Wakes em up nicely!
  11. GSX 1400? nice and long. Not a massive amount of adjustment, not too fancy either...
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