Joseph

I don't. Wouldn't know where to start to do one either I don't track the bike either so getting it healthily through the gear range would require reaching speeds not well looked at by the plod ? It would be subject to each and everyones interpretation anyway

Just bought two they were delivered nicely wrapped and rapidly https://www.webike.fr/products/21424919.html

I've got an 11 in the shop with the same bandit exhaust as you and it seems like it does fit to the original GSXR hanger

Upper holes are 106 apart Lower holes are 118 apart Upper and lower lines are 80 apart Lower holes are 46 from the bottom of the screen Screen is 285 tall 265 wide at the bottom But frankly, they sell for £20 in Japan so...

Did you passivate the acid action with a dollop of sodium bicarbonate in the last rinse ?

Same acid content in molasses as in white vinegar FYI so the same potential attack eitherway on a same level of dilution

Yeah i get it in 5L tubs at big supermarkets, and actually even my big/pro hardware store sells in in 10L

I guess you want to keep the current paint ? I always do mine with white vinegar. It's the cheapest acid you can buy, it's not toxic and you can get it on you without ending up looking like a bollywood reject Make a steel blanking plate and seal the fuel tap hole with a couple of bits of old inner tube (don't leave the alloy one one, the vinegar will eat through it. Fill the tank up and leave for a week or so depending on the condition. It's a light acid so it takes time, on the other hand it won't eat into the steel. Rinse out with a hose pipe, and use a good amount of sodium bicarbonate in a couple of liters of water to swirl around after a very thourough rinsing. That will neutralise the acidity. But I'm talking tanks that get painted afterwards I have seen several tank sealer kits, and the instructions state at the rust destruction phase, to protect the shit out of the paint finish because the acidity can get to it if not properly protected. A greasy stick thick armored sticky tape should isolate it, you need to lay it down nicely around the filler neck ( part of which is bare steel so leave that in the open, don't let the tape overlap the bare steel/painted steel because you could get seepage into the paint.

All the removable cases on a RF900 are magnesium too.

I sincerely doubt that the 1100 block can weigh as little as a mk1 R1 engine. That is just impossible. But maybe my 90-95 figure is high ? It just feels like a small car engine when you need to shift one

There is 8 kilos difference between a 750 and 1100. I can't remember where i read that but it was a legit source and i have a good memory for figures. The difference is down to heavier crank, clutch, rods, pistons, sleeves, block in the 1100 A 1998-99 Yamaha R1 is probably the smallest most compact liter bike engine. And on top of it's small size is built with lots of magnesium, nikasil alloy sleeves etc. Very nice stuff. That weighs around 72-75 kilos, and i know that because i had one in my Bond Bug and it was around 15 kilos less that the whole Reliant lump and box. Bear in mind, that the oil boiler was built with absolutely no attention to size or weight, with no special alloys or metals whatsoever, and with steel liners, and a massive gearbox. And 90-95 kilos starts to sound realistic, especially when you try to pick one up by yourself But that is also why, contrary to tge aforementioned R1, the oil boiler is bulletproof and good for 200 000 miles of raw abuse

In '91 ? I do doubt that quite very much But i guess the might have published the WN specs on the M page on that website ? But point proven : you can't trust internet spec sheets

And internet spec sheets, well... Taken from the same website, both '91 : 750 : 1100 : hmm...

I seem to remember clearly that there is 8 kilos difference between the 1100 and the 750 engine The 750 frame is lighter, the forks are shorter (i think ?) Different oil capacities etc It all adds up. No way can there be 20 kilos difference just in the engine if you think about it seriously ?

Can't be less than 95 kg i'd say

I daily a fully rebuilt 1216 with cams, head job, RS carbs etc etc and 6 speed box. Done 4500 km so far and not all that conservatively. The gearing of the six speed is super cool compared to the 5 speed. The way it goes through the gear range is good I would say it's worth it, and a street bike doesn't get thrashed like a track bike, so the lifespan of the box shouldn't be too much of a concern.

No, but it's the same as a slingshot, and the axle space between the swingarm legs of a slabside and a slingshot is the same (slingshot rims are plug and play i believe on a slabside ? ) Of course if the engine sprocket positions differ, or if the frame is narrower, i agree that that can affect this kind of project as far as chain run goes. But theoretically centering the rim should be pretty much the same kind of job ?

Frankly you've got me confused. On my 93 which is essentially the same as a slingshot, i centered the rim, which has to be the only starting point to take off from. I had the sprocket carrier shaved all the way down to the bearing edge (7mm) to ensure that the rim could be centered. I put a 5mm spacer behind the front sprocket and flipped the rear sprocket round because the one i bought was stepped so putting it the other way round got it closer to the tyre. Custom made spacers to fill in the gaps and that did the job. Well, i think ? I mean the wheel is centered, the chain is straight ? I think...

But of course it was your bike i seemed to remember having seen the set up on. Trawling through the net i found that the swingarm widths are the same pretty much between slabside and slingshot, but its good to see how you've done it. On my 5.5 inch conversions i took out the studs and bolts and used hex screws, that gave clearance because the studs didn't clear the swingarm with the wheel centered, but i didn't sink the sprocket carrier inside. I did have it shaved down the to outside edge of bearing face (gained 7mm) and used a sealed bearing since the o ring seal recess had been shaved off the carrier in those 7 mm I think i also used a spacer on the front sprocket. Don't know if the slab frame allows that ?

Thanks I think i found the build topic about the bike. Unfortunately it looks like it had K4 600 rims which i am not familiar with regarding hub offset. I do however realise that if this is to be done it needs to be with a 600 rim only since they are 5.5 wide

Hi As described in the title, i seem to think i have seen it done before but can't find any photo evidence due to the blandness of the key words. The K rim has a largely offset hub towards the chain side, hence me wondering if it can be done ? If anyone has photos of that set up or knows the tricks to make it work that would be great Thanks

Stock EFE indeed is literally the size of a postcard

The general thought is that smaller carbs improve low down torque at the expense of HP higher up, whereas large carbs will provide higher RPM HP at the expense of low down torque

Yes that will just be a GSX1100 exh. cam that will have been fitted to your EFE head

I would ask your mate to have it back or sell it and buy the right year part. It's just a standard shock not exactly a race pro Nitron or Ohlins ttx