Arttu

So making 20 psi on 10 psi spring without boost controller adding more? Then there is something to fix for you if you want it going down the track in controlled manner

Brakes are black magic, you never know if they get better or worse when you touch them. Ok, that was just joking but actually my experiences are somewhat like that. So I would just bolt on the calipers that you have and see if they work properly. If not, then it's time to start thinking alternative options.

It should go straight in, no differences in mounting points between 1100e and 1150efe.

Good progress! But what this actually means? Dyno was reading 108 but wheel speed should have been 151? Was the wheel speed measured by a sensor or calculated from engine rpm? If from rpm it can be either clutch or tire slipping, if measured from wheel then it must be tire slip.

It should work just fine. At least I know plenty of people using air shifter or foot shifting with quick shifter on carb turbo bikes. If it is working correctly it shouldn't cause any backfiring on intake side. One key thing is to avoid too long kill time. Typically 50-70ms should work fine with air shifter.

Looks quite ok, I think. Just few notes: If you want to start safe I would take out a couple of degrees from 140kPa and above. I would ramp up timing with rpm a bit slower. 2000rpm column around 20° and 1500rpm around 15°. Although I haven't done much experimenting with this area, this is just how it seems to be on stock timing curves. As extra trick you can try to stabilize idle with timing: Move the lowest column just below the idle rpm, like 900rpm. Set the next column at your target idle rpm. Add few degrees on the lowest column. This way the timing advances if the rpm drops below your idle target and that tends to drive rpm back up.

Oil cooled engines that I have tuned have usually liked about 28-30° timing at 1 bar boost. And if the stock N/A timing is around 34-36° then that would be close to degree per 20kPa that you mentioned. 1 degree per psi sounds excessive in any case.

That's quite subjective question and the same goes with any modification that we do on these old bikes. So only you can answer if it's worth of it for you.

There isn't anything especially expensive but plenty of stuff that adds up. Some examples for a low end system from top of my head: ECU - 300-600€ Throttle body set with injectors - 100-200€ Fuel pump - 100€ Pressure regulator 50-100€ Sensors - 50-100€ Wideband lambda sensor - 200€ Bunch of small items that you can't even think about before startting - 100-200€ Like said it's possible to get many of these for cheaper too if you have some luck or patience for searching. On the other hand it can get much more expensive if you have any special requirements.

It can naturally vary a lot depending on what kind system you want, what parts you use and where you source them. But as a ball park figure I would say 1000-2000€. Lower end of the range is pretty tight, means some very low cost ECU and using plenty of used parts, but should be doable. You can make it even cheaper if that's your main goal but that will mean compromises here and there and it will be more difficult.

Forced Induction Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell.

Seems that I don't have notes about my current pistons. But previous 77mm Wisecos were 216g + 75g for the pin. Any ways, I think 10.000 should be ok for you too. Yep, always better to be cautious than throw a rod out of the cases... But like said, I think 10.000 should be pretty safe if you have properly made crank.

If I recall correctly a stock GSX1100 doesn't have a limiter, but I might be wrong. However, I have been using 10.000 as a limit on my turbo GSX, currently 1327cc. And I think that should be pretty safe choice. To get some perspective I think pro stock GSX engines run up to 13.000 and they are around 1700cc, longer stroke and BIG pistons. But lifetime of the crank isn't very long on those.

You might want to check @Blower1project threads. He has an EFE with a M62 blower. Different bike but you might still get some ideas. I was thinking a bit about your routing plan for the chargers. But looks like feeding the blower by the turbos is pretty much only option with those parts. The M62 can't shift enough air for 400hp from ambient pressure so you have to feed it by pressurized air. Also you probably will need around 2 bar boost to reach over 400hp which is quite much for the K04 turbos if you want to keep them at good efficiency range. So sequential charging makes sense, sort of Just remember to fit an intercooler somewhere too...

Yep, there are some practical reasons why most of the drag bikes look the same nowadays...

Looking good! Although I think it would have been even more cool with some RF style fairings

Yeah, I have done some. Here's project thread for my own GSX: https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/8401-arttus-turbo-gsx/ There aren't too much details about basic fuel injection installation but maybe it gives some ideas. Then there is ongoing thread about EFI installation on a Bandit that shows more the basic details: https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/17581-mini-project-efi-for-a-turbo-bandit/ Bruteforce's EFI thread is worth of checking as well. It also shows plenty of details about the installation process: https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/4931-turbogs-is-going-efi/

Actually the o-rings on center head nuts don't have anything to do with pressurized oil. There are deep(ish) bores for the nuts on the head and bottom corners of these bores go through the casting to outside of the head. And o-rings prevent oil leaking past the nuts. So when the o-rings fail oil starts weeping out. It leaks out from next to the middle exhaust ports but it easily looks like it's coming from the head gasket joint. If you clean the mess carefully and check again after a short run you should see where it's actually leaking. Btw, what the heck is 97 GSX1100SZ? Just to make sure we all are talking about the same animal...

492 are standard rods on 1074cc engines, 18mm small ends. First turbo engine that I built had those rods and stock factory welded crank. Welded just like the EFE crank in picture above. It had slightly below 200 whp and run fine for few years and about 20000 km. And like said above the hp figure isn't the only thing that defines stress for the crank. High rpms with big heavy pistons can be really hard even at low power. And hard acceleration and deceleration. And high instaneous torque like dropping clutch from high rpm with sticky rear tire.

I think it depends on usage. On street use (=no hard launches on prepped track) I think it should be fine for way over 200hp. That's assuming it's in good condition, runout within the spec and no pitting on bearings. The biggest problem is that you have no way to know condition of the bearings without disassembling the whole thing. So if you really want to ensure the reliability the only option is to get it checked and rebuilt. Alternatively you can check what's possible without disassembling, throw it in and see how it goes.

Flow at 3 bar is pretty close to my measurements but dead time is quite different. I have got about 270cc @ 3 bar and 0.93ms @ 13V. If we are talking about the same injectors... Good price for testing

You have '01-03 GSX-R600 TBs, right? 100% drop-in replacement injectors are quite rare for these. But if you are ready to use some adapters for top end and electrical connectors and maybe adjusting the fuel rail height then there are plenty of options. If the flow rate of the original injectors is enough for you finding a new set would be a good option too. I might have a spare set floating around. If needed I can test them and sell if they are good.

Sorry if I'm stating obvious but injection pulse length is result of what you enter to fuel settings in the ECU. Fuel pressure, crank sensor or other "external" factors have no direct effect on it. During tuning process you adjust injection pulse length by the fuel table and other variables until you get proper AFR as result. So strictly speaking it doesn't matter what the pulse length is if the engine is running properly. But clearly "wrong" pulse length can be indication of some fundamental problem with your setup and especially if you have difficulties to get the engine running properly it's a good idea to figure out what is going on there. 1ms effective injection time isn't that bad, it should be still within operating window of the injectors. But indeed it sounds shorter than expected for those injectors. For comparison my GSX idles around 2ms effective on the same injectors. If the AFR is showing sensible values I think there might be something wrong with the injectors. Maybe some of them are leaking so the engine is getting more fuel than what is commanded. That could also result poor idling since some of the cylinders are getting too much fuel and others too little while the lambda sensor is showing ok mixture.

Is that effective injection time (without dead time) or total? For total that's way too short, like @Gixer1460said the injectors wouldn't open almost at all. If it's effective injection time it's closer to the reality but probably still on lean side with 240-280cc injectors. Basic settings that affect on injection time are injector size and dead time. Ideally you should set these at correct values and not touch them after that. Third relating setting is injection interval, 360° or 720°. Smaller interval drops effective injection length to a half but if the dead time is set correctly it shouldn't affect on mixture. However, there is a risk that resulting injection time gets too small for accurate fuel metering. But with those injectors this shouldn't be a concern. Once these basic settings are correct it's just a matter of tuning the fuel table correctly. You tune the table to get correct AFR and resulting injection time is what it happens to be.

Yep, it should work ok without intercooling. But there will be some power penalty if you are using any higher boost (>15 psi or so).