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Arttu

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Everything posted by Arttu

  1. Ah, ok. Sorry, no idea about them but I'm pretty sure they are suitable for a B600 engine. You can measure the flow quite easily by yourself. And that's highly recommended any ways when using old injectors in unknown condition.
  2. I haven't personally tested 36-1 on oil cooled Suzukis. But just looking the resulting teeth / gap size I think it's getting a bit too tight for the stock pick-up sensor. I know that some people are using it successfully but also there are some who haven't got it working properly. 24-2 has been pretty trouble free for me. Injectors for N/A 650cc engine? Anything between 200-300cc should be fine (roughly 130-200hp) so basically anything from >600cc EFI bike will work.
  3. It's also good to keep in mind that there can be huge variation in traction on normal road surface. A couple of different examples from the same day, same tire, same setup: Random clean looking smooth piece of road, no burnout - Spins tire right away when trying any harder launch, won't lift the front in any case. Air field, cleaned normal asphalt. No glue but some rubber from other cars and bikes. Short burnout. - No any traction problems, just wheelies when trying to launch too hard.
  4. I think 0.5 bar should get you around there if the setup is done correctly. And that should be still relatively safe with stock compression and pistons if tuned right. The B12 engine is one of those funny examples that really like boost and can even exceed that normal rule of thumb about 100% power increase by 1 bar boost. Also usually a turbo engine will feel way more powerful than a tuned N/A engine with the same peak power. I could tell a couple funny real life examples about this
  5. Yes you can if you keep the boost low enough. I think the limit would be around 0.5-0.7 bar on pump gasoline if tuned properly. Upside would be that it probably makes clearly more power at that boost compared to lower compression build. Some time ago I partially built and tuned a turbo B12 that had completely stock unopened engine. It cranked out quite healthy 260hp at 0.9 bar boost. But this was on E85 fuel. As said, on normal pump gasoline you probably want to keep the boost a bit lower.
  6. There are oil pressure sensors, sure. I don't know what's the thread there so can't say how easy it would be find a sensor that fits. Typical threads on sensors are 1/8" NPT and M10x1. But probably a bigger problem is length of the sensor, most of them are too tall to fit inside the cover. So it's probably better to leave the switch there and install a sensor somewhere else on the oil circuit.
  7. Yes, that could work. But the problem is that you still need to ride the clutch. And then it might be tricky to adjust switching point of the limiter input switch. If it is too early the rpms will shoot up while you are still feeding in the clutch. Too late and it will keep bouncing on the limiter when you should already have full power. But like said, probably worth of trying.
  8. Haven't ever actually checked it but I'm 95% sure it's just a switch. So it will only tell if the pressure is over the switching threshold or not.
  9. I think a launch limiter works best with slider style clutch where you can just throw the lever. But it could help with normal hand clutch too. If you can build some boost on limiter you can probably launch at lower rpm and then you don't need to feed in the clutch that long. I think I will try that next time. Whenever that happens... I have boost by gear control and that helps a lot. Only problem is that the wastegate doesn't allow low enough boost to get on full throttle on 1st and 2nd.
  10. I have personally tried my bike on quarter mile only few times. But here is one "amateur rider on street bike" reference Air cooled turbo GSX, on full road trim so pretty high, slightly under 300hp max with the setup used on the track. Non-prepped air field track. The main problem was wheelying on 1st and 2nd gears so I was able to get on full throttle only at end of 2nd gear and onwards. That shows up on 60ft and 1/8 (200m) times. You really mean your 60ft times were between 3.7-4.0s? Considering that the 1/8 times are pretty good. I think you need to get the 60ft under 2s before you can make much conclusions about further incrementals. Edit: Ah, re-read your post and you probably meant 0-60 mph time, not 60ft? Then it makes more sense
  11. No, there is no pressure relief valve on the roller bearing GS/GSX engines. And don't worry, you won't need it with 750 pump gears. Even with them the oil pressure will be only around 0.5 bar (7 psi) when the oil is hot. With cold oil it may get up to 2 bar or so but even that isn't anything to worry about.
  12. Not sure if it should be called as a wear item but yes, the splines on the hub can wear loose over time. There are two versions of the hub. Earlier is full aluminium and more prone to spline wear. Later one has steel insert in the center so it doesn't wear that easily. But sometimes the insert can get loose which naturally will cause quite significant rattle.
  13. The Kat looks interesting! The coil conversion principles should be pretty much the same for all 4 cylinder Jap bikes that are originally equipped with double coils. Exact details of some weird H or K or whatever bikes are out of scope of this forum
  14. I'm pretty sure that all the used baskets look more or less like that. Unless it's almost unused... I would just blend the worst spots with a dremel or something similar. It shouldn't rattle with new springs.
  15. I haven't ever tested this by myself but I recall estimations around 10mm from other people. So you should have at least that much clearance when the forks are fully compressed.
  16. Usually you pull out the knob and turn it to adjust the pressure. And then push it back to lock it in the position.
  17. I think your boost control is supposed to work in following way: When you don't press the button the wastegate works just normal way. On top of the gate there is just atmospheric pressure and the boost is controlled by the spring alone. When you press the button the solenoid activates and lets part of the boost pressure to top of the gate. Gate top pressure pushes the valve close so effectively it adds up on top of the spring pressure. I assume that "manual on/off solenoid" in the diagram is an adjustable pressure regulator? So with that you can adjust how much pressure will be feed on top of the gate and how much boost will increase with the button. Btw, the electronic solenoid seems to be plumbed wrong way around in the diagram. I assume ports 1 and 2 should be swapped. Now it won't release pressure from top of the gate when you release the button.
  18. I guess that note is because the Dyna-S may keep the coil continuosly powered while ignition is on and the engine isn't running. Depending on what position the engine has stopped. And if I recall correctly the stock Suzuki ignition with mechanical advancer can do the same. So when the coil stays powered for longer period, like several minutes, it can get pretty warm. All the 3 Ohm coils will generate roughly same amount of heat in this situation but since those mini coils are physically smaller they dissipate less heat and get hotter. And apparently they can get too hot and damaged.
  19. I think the generator cover is used just to block the main oil gallery bore in the top case. As far as I recall there isn't any splash feed there. The main gallery supplies the crank bearings and head through head studs. As shown in diagram above.
  20. Ok, now your question starts to make more sense As rule of thumb I would aim for 1.0-1.5mm squish band gap. Below that risk for piston-head contact starts to grow. For sure you can go lower but then you have to do your homework carefully. And above 1.5mm is the area where the squish may not work properly anymore and it may even increase risk for detonation. Like said this is just a rough rule of thumb and there are multiple factors affecting to the result. But in any case your 1.9mm squish doesn't sound optimal. Piston dish doesn't need to be round. It's just the easiest shape to machine. Ideally the dish should follow the shape of the combustion chamber on the head. So if you can get that machined it should be good. Just be careful with the piston crown thickness. There seems to be plenty of variation between different pistons on how much "extra" material there is.
  21. Only piece of info that I can provide is that stock rods and pistons should be good for at least 300hp. There are quite many gen2 turbo builds around that power range using stock engine internals.
  22. I don't think you need to worry about melting the VNT system on bike application. At least mine didn't show any problems after few years in road use. And it probably had pretty high exhaust temps based on how the exhaust valves and ports were looking... Yes, the VNT can provide some benefits but getting the control system working properly may take some effort. And benefits compared to normal turbos might be smaller than you would expect. Mainly because if you try to make the turbo to spool-up early it results high exhaust pressure and typical bike engine really don't like that, especially at low revs.
  23. I have used Cerakote coating on piston tops once. No problems with it but hard to say if it gave any benefit either. Based on what I have studied about this topic I think it's probably case dependent if these combustion chamber coatings do more good than harm. Seems that on professional race engines they are used quite rarely which probably tells something. On road bikes one question is also carbon build-up. I'm having hard time to believe the coating can make much difference once it gets covered by carbon layer...
  24. It isn't that straightforward to tell what power some parts can handle since there are multiple other factors affecting too. For example rpms stress the rods more than just power. Hard launches on prepped track are often main reason for breaking cases and so on. But as far as I know stock GSX rods, 493 Katana rods and EFE ones, are often used on 500-600hp Funny bikes. So they really can handle some serious power. If we are talking about GSX cases I think they are still realtively reliable around 500hp. They can handle even more but at 800hp level this kind views tend to get more common.
  25. Well, the Katana rods can handle over 500hp so no wonder if they look beefier...
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