Arttu

Nope. The regulator works by bleeding excess fuel to the return so everything between the pump and regulator stays at regulated pressure. Even if there are multiple pressure ports on pressure side of the regulator there are no specific inputs or outputs. All of them are just ports to the pressure side of the regulator. In some cases there might be minor differences in resulting pressure depending how you route the lines, through the regulator or from T before it. That's because of pressure drop in the lines. But usually that difference is neglible.

Interesting. It's possible that this long tooth requires some special electronics to work properly with a VR sensor. Nice that they have some support for that stock wheel. Although it's another question if it's easier to change the sensor or change the wheel to something that works with stock sensor. I'm going to try a MaxxECU on a Bandit with stock sensor and 24-2 wheel soon(ish). Interesting to see how that goes but I'm pretty confident it will work fine.

Both versions should work the same. If a regulator has multiple pressure side connections they usually are going into the same space inside the regulator. So effectively the same than a T before the regulator.

Haven't tried it specifically with MaxxECU but with some other ECUs 12-1 has been kind of borderline case for reliable starting. Works on some and gives troubles on others. I'm currenlty using 24-2 as default option and it has been trouble free by this far. Stock VR sensor should be fine. Of course it's possible that it just doesn't give strong enough signal at low rpm. You can try to eliminate this by adjusting the sensor closer to the wheel or playing with arming voltage and other trigger settings on the MaxxECU. But my guess is that the crank speed just varies too much between the teeth and the ECU can't always detect the missing tooth.

Well, few things that I have learned from EFI conversion projects: Crank triggering issues. Most common reason for difficult starting is slow or erractic crank position decoding. So I would try to analyze the logs and see how quickly you get the correct rpm and if there are any rpm errors during cranking. Slightly related, it's worth of checking if the ignition timing matches to what you are trying to command during cranking. And naturally commanded timing should at right ballpark, 0-10 degrees usually work fine. Also make sure that you are using correct dwell settings and you get proper sparks. After the basics above are in order it's mostly about correct amount of fuel. There one key thing is to use the right settings for right part of the starting process. Cranking fuel affects mainly for cranking and the few very first firing cycles. Once it picks up the rpm it's mainly after start enrichment combined with warmup enrichment. Warmup handles the part after the idle has somewhat stabilized. Usually it's better to start with lower values to avoid flooding the engine and increase fuel slowly as needed. Sequential or batch injection shouldn't matter much. Or let's say it other way around: sequential injection with correct timing may improve starting but there shouldn't be any problem to get good starting with batch injection. Some fast idle or opening the throttle is usually needed to get it started from cold. Quite often it will fire up with closed throttle but it won't stay running without extra air. Relating to this, if the engine hasn't started after few seconds of cranking usually it has already got too much fuel and then opening the throttle often helps.

I don't think you can have too big intercooler. There isn't any logical reason why a bigger one would flow or cool worse than a smaller one. One could argue that bigger volume increases lag or makes throttle response worse but I don't buy even that. If we are talking about any reasonable sized cooler (not like a fridge) the volume is pretty small compared to air flow that goes through it per second. Basically an intercooler has two important performance parameters: cooling capacity and flow restriction / pressure drop. These are interchangeable to some degree meaning that for the same size you can have better cooling at cost of increased restriction or other way around. From cooling standpoint anything is better than nothing. So even a small cooler helps but only if it doesn't cause too much pressure drop. As real life example here is one cooler setup that I have some data about. This one dropped air temps roughly from 100°C to 50°C at 1 bar boost and 200hp power level. Unfortunately pressure drop wasn't measured.

Turbo sizing goes by power not engine displacement. So the GSX750 probably likes about something that would work well on 1600-2000cc car engine. And on bike engines it's usually better to err slightly on large side than opposite. The trigger wheel would cost 80€ + shipping. If I recall correctly shipping to the US is between 10-30€ depending on service.

Correct. No such thing as a 2001 Katana 750. RTFR Ok, let's get a bit more serious. Yes, a 24-2 trigger is a good choice with the Microsquirt and most of the other ECUs. I can deliver a bolt-on trigger wheel if needed. The main question for turbo choice is how much power you want? But if we assume it's about 200hp then some suitable examples could be Garrett GT2560R, GBC20-300 and Mitsubishi TD04-11/13. Just to name few.

The engine (and bike) is the same here, 1135cc. But the name here is GSX1100EF/EFE, not GS1150 like in the US.

Sublimation heat of dry ice seems to be 571 kJ/kg so it's more effective per weight compared to liquid nitrogen. But using it effectively might be more tricky. Sublimation should happen inside the intercooler, otherwise you loose the main part of cooling capacity. So you would need some different style cooler which you could fill with the dry ice pellets. Or alternatively you could have an air-to-liquid cooler core, use alcohol as coolant and chill it with dry ice.

Just out of curiosity I did some brief feasibility calculations. Let's assume we have a 300hp engine setup and we want to cool intake charge from 100°C down to 0°C. For 300hp the air mass flow would be about 0.25kg/s. Thermal capacity of air is 1 kJ/(K*kg) So cooling that by 100°C releases 25kJ of energy per second. Liquid nitrogen boils at -196°C and it's evaporation heat is about 200 kJ/kg. Thermal capacity is pretty much the same than for air, 1 kJ/(K*kg). So boiling 1 kg of liquid nitrogen and heating it up to 0°C takes about 400kJ of energy. When we put all this together we find out that cooling the intake air will consume 25kJ / 400kJ/kg = 0.0625kg of liquid nitrogen per second. So 1kg would last about 16 seconds. Pretty much what I expected, not very practical for street use. But could work for drag racing or some other short duration use.

Yes, should work. But if you are going to see the effort to have a bottle of liquid gas on the bike I think N2O would be more efficient.

If I recall correctly you need to change the head studs too. Otherwise it should be just bolt-on. 1150 intake valves are 1mm bigger but I think that should be still ok with reliefs on the 1100 pistons. To be clear, I have never done exactly this swap but I have played quite a bit with both engines and don't see any problem there. And I know it has been quite popular mod back in the days.

The cooling effect is definitely real but even that can be easily over estimated. If you have a temp sensor downstream the injection nozzle it will get cooled by water mist and therefore show lower readings than actual air temp. I guess in-cylinder cooling reduces cylinder pressure during power stroke which then more or less cancels benefits of improved intake air density. Like you said water vapor also replaces some air in intake charge but I think that has quite minor effect in the end. Actually having enough water on board isn't that big problem in street use. If you use mainly water and keep injection flow reasonble the water consumption is pretty low. I have about 1.5 liter tank and it lasts for several hundreds of kilometers even when riding moderately hard. On cricuit track it was enough for about an hour of track time if I recall correctly. But I still have some fail safe mechanisms in my system so if I run out of water or the nozzle gets blocked the boost control gets disabled and boost drops to base spring pressure.

Pretty good video and matches quite well to my experiences too. Although difference between the fluids was surprisingly big, I would guess there was some factor in play that wasn't properly tuned around. Also I was expecting that kind engine setup showing some power gain with properly set up water injection. But again confirms the point that water injection is more about increasing safety than getting more power. Naturally it can allow you to rise the boost and get more power that way.

I have some experience, mostly with straight water or about 20% water/ethanol mix. To summarize it shortly it seems to be good for increasing safety margin but not that great power adder. I can see nice drop in intake air and exhaust temps but getting any power increase requires just correct amount of water. At best I have seen about 5% power increase with gasoline but with E85 it has been pretty much 0 by this far. Although I haven't spent too much time trying to find optimal combination of water flow and ignition timing. Using methanol at 50/50 or even higher ratio would probably give better results for power. But then you may need to tune fueling to compensate added methanol which increases risks if you run out of water/methanol.

I don't think I have ever seen engine coolant used for intercooling. With typical water-air cooler setup outcoming air can be 20-50°C above coolant temp. So if you start from 80°C coolant the result won't be too good. Yes, maybe better than nothing if you are running high enough boost but still hardly worth of effort.

At lower boost the turbine needs to do less work so more exhaust gases are going through the wastegate. This results lower exhaust pressure.

Less boost means easier life for many parts. Intake air temp will be lower which means smaller risk for detonation. Also exhaust temp and pressure are lower which also helps with detonation and exhaust valves will live longer too. For the bottom end it probably doesn't make much difference since the cylinder pressures should be roughly the same. Maybe a little bit better for smaller boost because there is less work to do on exhaust stroke.

In other units the cam cap bolts should be tightened to 8-12Nm And since those aren't original bolts I would check they are at least 10.9 strength. Edit: Almost missed this was oilcooled section. Numbers are for the EFE engine which seems to be in the picture if I'm not mistaken...

Can't remember exact details since it's pretty long time since I have played with the stock ignition system. But I remember for sure that sometimes either of the coils was staying energized while key was on and engine not running. I'm not sure but I think sometimes both of the coils may stay off depending on how the crank has turned. Any way, the coils will get pretty hot if they stay energized for several minutes. I don't know how easy it is to burn the coils this way but I would try to avoid long key on / engine off periods just to be safe.

Yes, sounds like faulty ignitor. But to be sure you can still try to crank the engine few revolutions while everything is connected and see if that changes the results. If I recall correctly the ignitor may keep one coil constantly on like that if the crank stops at some specific position.

I guess the 1mm thick one is a shim and it should go under the thick grooved washer. I think there are some variations in this area between year models so probably that's the reason why your parts diagram doesn't show the shim. Here is a snip from an EFE manual but I think the setup was the same also on '83 E model.

Yep, there seems to be huge variation in quality with those halogen replacement LED bulbs. The best ones are pretty good but there is plenty of utter crap too. Here is a pretty good site for comparing the LED bulbs. Contains actual measurement results and even detailed reviews for some bulbs. https://bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/

While you are checking the plates make sure that the steels are straight and flat. Warped plates can cause all kind issues from slipping to dragging. As far as I know the stack height shouldn't be very critical for stock clutch. As long as it's at right ball park so that the release mechanism can work and you still get enough pressure it should work. Meaning that if you have correct amount of plates and the plates are even remotely within thickness spec it should be good.