Arttu

Like said above not very basic questions... I'm having a knock sensor on my own bike connected to the ECU with all appropriate bells and whistles like signal band pass filtering and timing windowing. And for dyno tuning all random bikes I have an earphone setup with mic on alligator clip that can be clamped on some part of the engine. By this far I haven't detected knock any single time by either of these. On the other hand I haven't had any clear knock case which I had missed when using these tools. That's mainly because I always try to avoid knock as well as I can... With the sensor I can see that signal from the sensor gets higher when I push more boost in but still I have no idea how much higher it would read in case of knock. So I can't really do any knock control by that. I guess one main problem is my sensor placement which is probably almost worst possible, at cam chain tensioner on air cooled cylinder block. Since the sensor has been kind of secondary addition in my setup I haven't bothered to make a proper mounting point for it. But I guess even with better sensor placement it wouldn't be too straightforward to interpret the readings. Earphone setup works usually quite well from low to mid rpm. You can hear pretty clearly what is going on in the engine, valvetrain and all. So I think knock would be quite clearly noticeable. But at high rpm and full power it gets more fuzzy. Mechanical noise through the earphones gets so high that it's difficult to detect anything in the middle of that. And ambient noise from the dyno room doesn't make it any easier. So I'm not too confident that I could really spot knocking at full power...

I mostly agree with this. You can get pretty impressive results relatively cheaply if you know what you are doing. And on the other hand all the most expensive stuff won't help if you don't. Many stock parts on our bikes are actually incredibly good and strong compared to aftermarket stuff so if you plan your build wisely you can get really far without using too many expensive go-fast parts. Also in many cases you can do a trade between spending money or your own time and work. So if you are ready to spend more your time you can save significant amounts of money. Again assuming you know what you are doing... But it's good to remember that there is also a flip side of this. There is always a limit on how far you can push this cost saving game without penalty. Some things just have to be done properly or they will bite your ass sooner than later. And that will cost some money in any case.

A turbo Bandit that I tuned some time ago made a bit over 260hp and the clutch was holding fine with 2 HD springs and one stock. The plates were old but I blasted the steels with glass beads which improves the grip quite nicely. So I think the clutch should be able to handle pretty good power with those springs if the plates and everything else are in good shape.

Good to hear you got some progress! Just keep in mind that AFRs around and under 11 start to be at territory where you may get rich misfires. And detecting that can be tricky since unburnt mixture makes the lambda meter to read leaner than reality. So for example if you see 11.5 on the gauge you may really have that and engine running happily. Or you can be actually much richer and the engine is misfiring 20-30% of cycles.

Increased compression shouldn't affect on jetting. But water-methanol injection can affect. Methanol is fuel so it makes the mixture richer which can then cause misfiring. And even if it doesn't get too rich added water makes it harder to ignite the mixture. So you may need stronger ignition system or you can try smaller plug gap as first aid, like you planned. And if your tune is on rich side you may need to lean it to make it work with water injection. Also increased compression needs more voltage from the coils to make sparks. So if your ignition system has been on the limit it may start misfiring now just because of higher compression. Again reducing the plug gap is a good first step for troubleshooting. Even if it doesn't cure the problem completely it should make some difference and give you a hint if the problem is there.

EFE engine (1135cc) has always 20mm wrist pins.

Yes, like @Maggotbreathsaid the check valve needs certain pressure to open. And siphon effect can't create that much pressure so flow will stop when the oil pump stops.

I think the loop on the feed line may not be enough to stop leaking through the feed pump. When the line is full draining oil will suck oil from the pump even over the loop since air can't get into the line. Adding a check valve on the feed line should prevent this.

I used a GSX sight class but I guess the Bandit/GSX-R one is very similar if not the same.

Mine came without sight glass hole so I drilled it by myself. Or actually a friend of mine drilled. So yes, it can be machined.

I think your numbers are at right ball park. For reference you can check prices of ProBoost turbo kits: https://www.proboost.fi/motorcycle-turbo-kits A Bandit kit there contains basically all that you need for 200-250hp goal. For sure you can make it for cheaper if you make parts by yourself and use second hand parts smartly. On the other hand it's easy to spend way more if you want something "little better" or more bling.

That looks like good basic info package. There isn't much that I can't agree with. Although the focus seems to be on relatively basic turbo installations on carbed bikes. Not really a fault but good to keep in mind when weighing the advice. This link should work: http://www.spartgsxrspecials.com/turbo do and dont.htm

Well, it isn't something that the gasket manufacturers assume you to do. So you won't find reconditioning kits for your gasket The rivets aren't that critical since they are needed only for holding the sandwich together while you assemble the engine. When I have done this I have been able to re-use old rivets that I have drilled open. Alternatively you can get creative and use pop rivets, suitable copper wire or something like that. For sealing I have used Permatex copper spray.

Based on my experience a pump would be helpful still. But it doesn't need to be very big or powerful. For example one that DME sells has been working just fine keeping temp rise during a quarter mile pull minimal. And it isn't especially powerful pump. You can get similarly performing ones at fraction of cost as generic car part. I guess natural circulation would be too slow to prevent boiling at hot spots. A radiator isn't necessary, at least if you don't plan to run it back from end of the track. A couple liter water tank should be fine.

Are you going to have an electric pump?

Looking good! Although I guess you will have troubles with that plenum lid... Close-up photos from exhaust routing would be interesting.

Ok, let's take a closer look on that. "Boost is only measure of restriction" Well, sort of true. Boost pressure is result of air flow produced by the turbo and restriction of caused by engine. But while it's true it isn't actually telling anything, just stating the obvious. Also it's true that the air mass flow is what dictates the power that the engine can produce. But the catch is that you can't increase the air flow indefinitely without adding pressure. The engine shifts roughly its displacement of air volume at every cycle. Sure you can improve that by tuning cams, ports and so on, but even at the best case you will hit the limit somewhere around 110% of displacement. So if you want more air mass flow through the engine you have to increase the pressure. And the engine doesn't care how the pressure at intake has been generated. It just gasps in that volume of air at given pressure. So it doesn't really matter if the turbo producing the air pressure is capable of flowing 300cfm or 600cfm or whatever. As long as the engine demand doesn't exceed capacity of the turbo. Ok, in reality size of the turbo has some effect on the air flow. A bigger turbo MAY have better efficiency at required pressure / flow point which then results lower intake air temp exhaust back pressure. And those help to get more air flow through the engine at the same boost pressure. But even that can get you only so far. Eventually you just have to increase the pressure to get more flow and power.

Here goes a pair of very common opposite statements or beliefs: Boost equals power - more boost always means more power. Boost is only measure of restriction - air flow is what makes the power and these have no connection to boost pressure. While both have good amount of thruth in them they are usually used as overly simplified statements which makes them quite misleading.

That's some bad luck with that plug! Did you get any power readings before it let go? What kind springs you have in the clutch? You may still need quite stiff springs to make the clutch hold at lower rpms where the boost starts to come in. I guess you know it will be quite challenging to get consistent launches with that kind lock-up clutch?

I think this depends heavily on your turbo setup. If you have an efficient setup that has low exhaust back pressure, 1:1 with boost or lower, then the cams probably work pretty much like on NA engine. But if the exhaust pressure is high then short duration / overlap cams might give better results. As far as I know blowing fresh mixture through during overlap isn't usually a problem. When you are at operating rpm range for the cams there isn't enough time for that. But pushing the exhaust gases back to inlet can be a real problem if the exhaust pressure is significantly higher than boost.

Like @johnrsaid there are some differences but overall they are very similar and required mods should be fairly small. For that swap you probably need to open up the crankcase mouths for cylinder sleeves and use a 1100 output shaft bearing. That's all what I can recall from top of my head.

As far as I know biggest risk for the clutch are "energy conserving" additives used in modern car oils. Bike oils shouldn't have these. So if you just stay away from synthetic car oils you should be on quite safe ground.

Personally I haven't noticed any problems with fully synthetic bike oils. Regarding the temps. I think for oil 80-100°C is pretty much ideal operating range and below 120°C is still ok. If you are constantly getting over that I would start getting worried. For short periods even higher temps shouldn't be a big problem. I haven't checked much the engine surface temperatures but the cylinder block seems to follow oil temp quite closely. I assume that exhaust side of the head will get significantly hotter. But in any case the engine at normal running temp is too hot to touch.

Well, a turbo is probably one of most cost effective ways to tune these Yes, it costs quite a lot money to fit one but $$$/hp will be hard to beat. For low cost tuning options I guess the first one is fitting some good exhaust, maybe more free flowing air filter and tuning the carbs to suit. No idea how big improvements these will give on an EFE but I guess it should be something noticeable. Beyond that it starts to get expensive. Bigger pistons with big block, head porting with bigger valves, hotter cams, bigger carbs and so on. At some point the bottom end start to need attention too if you want it to be reliable. Clutch basket needs reinforcement pretty soon although this is more like a maintenance job since it will get loose at some point even with stock engine. Crank rebuild is highly recommended if you want to rev it higher or get big power otherwise. That's fairly expensive specialist job and the specialists are rare these days.

Yep, wastegate routing can be tricky with big and efficient turbos. And having well flowing exhaust manifold makes it even harder. But I think it's also very important in your case. Most likely you need to be able to control boost accurately down to 7 psi range to get good consistent launches. One good option is place the wastegate exit on the turbine housing. That seems to work very well usually.