Arttu

Here you go:

I don't know if there are any bolt on options easily available. I'm using GSX-R W rearsets on mine but they naturally needed custom mounting plates. I can provide CAD drawings of the mounting plates if you are interested to go that route.

Fuel pump would be my guess.

I haven't personally used Ignitech products but I know several people using them. Generally they have been happy with them and it seems that they mostly work as promised. I say "mostly" since have heard stories that some more rare engine configurations may not work perfectly even they are on list of supported engines and so on. Also their customer support might be quite slow and reluctant sometimes. But I guess you shouldn't have much problems as GSX-R support is most likely very thoroughly tested over the years. Personally I wouldn't even consider Dyna option (2000 I presume?). It's way too expensive for what it does.

My GSX1100 with EFE engine: -1230cc Wiseco pistons, dished tops with ceramic coating, 9.1:1 compression -1mm oversize exhaust valves, mildly ported head -IHI VF34 turbo -blow through EFI -water injection charge cooling Makes about 300hp at wheel with 1.1 bar boost. Intake temps around 75°C with water injection and 90°C without it. Another oil cooled GSX-R1100 that I tuned a year ago: -some forged pistons, maybe around 1170cc, compression unknown. -Mitsu TD04-16 turbo -blow through EFI -air-to-air intercooler Produced about 190hp with 0.5 bar boost. Intake temps around 50°C. So yes, I agree that yours should be able to do better. Intake temps sound pretty normal for that boost to me so I don't think that's the problem.

17/45 on my EFE engined GSX1100E.

I would recommend some modern MosFet regulator. I think most of them are made by Shindengen and they are used on various bikes and ATVs. I have been using one on my GSX for few years now and it has been working perfectly. There are few different models available and unfortunately I don't remember which ones were preferred from top of my head. Quick googling resulted this page that gives some clues: http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm#SH847_SERIES_RR_KITS_ARE_NOW_AVAILABLE_ You can probably save some money by searching second hand ones from Eblag. If you like I can check the model number that I'm using now.

I'm using fully programmable ECU Joking aside, for 0.5 bar and tight budget I would say that nothing is probably just fine. Or reduce static advance by a couple of degrees. Or drop compression a bit. But if you want a bit more sophisticated solution the Ignitech products might be worth of checking. For example SPARKER TCIP4 seems to support MAP sensor and mapping ignition based on load and RPM. http://ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/tcip/tcip.htm And it is quite much cheaper than Dyna 2000.

Understood. I was just providing some reference data, what kind results you can expect with that kind cooler. I guess that if you place IC on side of the engine it won't be facing air stream at square angle? In that case the efficiency will be somewhat lower but I don't have any idea how much.

Here is one example. Not my bike but one that I tuned some time ago. In dyno intake air temps were around 50-60°C at 1 bar boost. There wasn't temp measurement before the cooler but probably pre-cooler temps were around 100°C. So not a bad result but not extremely good either.

Generally yes but there is some variation between models. For example gen 1 Busa coils seem to be quite good and enough for over 1 bar boost while gen 2 coils are clearly weaker. You will probably need also an ignition amplifier with those unless the ECU has built in high current drivers.

GT15 is definitely too small for a B12. How that thing is supposed to attach on exhaust? On stock headers I guess? That doesn't look like optimal solution. Long exhaust before the turbo will slow down spooling and reduce efficiency. Is there any evidence the kit has been actually working? I'm wondering that since there isn't any mention about pitot tube and I can't notice one in the photo. And that is pretty essential in blow through systems. Like Clive mentioned there are fuel system parts missing, fuel pump and pressure regulator. Scavenge pump isn't necessary if the turbo is located above oil level.

Yes, very much possible it will never cause any trouble. But if the ignition box at some point starts thinking that it has the TPS in closed throttle position it can cause serious damage. That can happen for example if there is water and dirt in the unplugged connector. So personally I wouldn't like to take a risk.

I wouldn't be that confident. I don't know exactly what it does on teapot or bandit but once I measured how it affects on ignition timing on SV650. It added quite much advance at low throttle openings, over 10 degrees at some rpms if I recall correctly. Of course it's yet another question what happens if you leave it unplugged. It may read one or another end (throttle open or closed), it may drift randomly between those or it may even go to some fail safe mode. However, I wouldn't like to risk. 45 deg. advance instead of 35 at full throttle can cause some real trouble. The safe option would be faking full throttle situation. Either leave the tps connected and glue it to full throttle position. Or add a jumper wire between the signal wire and 5V wire.

I guess you have already checked the pinned EFI thread in this section? I guess you can use the GSX1400 TBs but probably they aren't the best choice. If I recall correctly the spacing isn't correct for older oil boilers and they are slightly on small side at 34mm. Though size isn't that critical on turbo engine unless you are trying squeeze every possible hp out. I can also recommend those early (2001-2003) GSX-R600 throttle bodies but there are many other possible choices too. For budget I would say that about 1000 euros is quite good rule of thumb for realistic minimum for injection and ignition control. This is perfectly doable but requires some attention for parts selection and sourcing. You can make it cheaper but that will require some patience or luck in sourcing and choices will get limited. Naturally there isn't upper limit if you want something fancy and special. Some of the parts included to this sum are required also for carb turbo build so actual cost difference will be somewhat smaller.

Welcome back! The first version of your turbo GS was giving me a lot of inspiration when I started my own turbo journey

One thing to consider while the engine is open is to get the crank checked and welded. Unless that is done already. 81 cranks aren't welded at factory and I have understood they can twist quite easily when ridden hard. Like said above you shouldn't need external oil lines unless you are using HD head studs or very agressive cams with stiff springs. And stock head studs should be completely fine with your mods.

On general level there can be easily up to 10% variation between different dynos even when they are set up correctly. In addition some operators like to print out "engine power" readings while other prefer raw wheel power readings. And often they don't even state which one has been used in the dyno sheet. Difference between these two is typically 10-15%. Then boosted engines bring in yet another dimension of inaccuracy. If the boost pressure isn't logged and printed in the dyno graph you can't really know what it was for that pull. Usually the owner or dyno operator just states that boost was let's say "15 psi". That can mean the boost varied between 13-17 psi over the pull, for example. Typical glycerine filled gauges also react a bit slowly and tend to "cut out" maximum values. So if the boost peaks at peak power point it can easily get missed if boost is monitored only from the gauge. So that "15 psi" can easily be 18 psi in reality. That makes substantial difference to power figures too. So in reality you can't make too detailed analysis from some random dyno graphs on the net.

Sounds like a plan And feel free to ask if you face any problems. I have been playing with these engines for some time and done quite a lot investigations on different aspects relating to turbo use. So there is a good change that I can give some answers right away. I'm not sure if stock pistons can stand 300hp but it's possible. My previous engine had stock internals except the clutch and it run without problems for quite long time at 0.8 bar boost and about 200hp. Very likely true since carb and exhaust port spacings are the same. Of course there might be some smaller issues but probably nothing critical.

Whaat? What Proboost kit you exactly got, do they have a kit for EFE? Any way, no need to gamble with oil pressure. For journal bearing turbo you need to make a take off plug that goes in place of the oil light switch. The idea is that the plug takes all the oil flow coming from the filter, bleeds oil to the engine through a restriction hole and feeds the turbo before the restriction. This increases pressure high enough for the turbo. I can dig up dimensions for the plug a bit later on. Or you can ask from Proboost, they should know. Who's engine it is, Rampe's? Well, based on my experience you newer should suppose anything when it comes to second hand engines It can quickly get expensive with turbos. But of course you can always take a risk and see what happens, your call. You have been warned

Even with the GS750 gears the oil pressure will be too low for journal bearing turbos (except old Rajays). However, there are some tricks to make more pressure for the turbo. So either use a ball bearing turbo or pay some special attention on oil system. 200hp should be pretty easy. Stock EFE pistons are forged so they should stand some reasonable boost without problems. If you don't know the compression ratio I recommend checking it first. I would aim to around 8.5-9:1. If you can keep proper AFR and ignition timing you should be able to use over 1 bar boost with that which should produce over 200hp easily.

Crank builders? Here in Finland is a guy who has been doing GSX cranks for over 20 years or something like that. Last time I spoke with him he was building maybe 20-30 cranks per year for drag racing, normal street use and whatever. I have got only one crank built by him but that was splendid work. And I have never heard any complaints about his cranks.

Compression ratio sounds a bit high in my opinion. What kind boost level you are planning for?

And then another example. Not my bike but I updated the engine management and tuned the engine for it earlier this year. GSX-R1100 "slingy", don't know exact year. 1168cc, compression unknown, TD04-16 turbo, intercooler. Engine Management: Megasquirt 2 based, my own "bike edition". Ignition: wasted spark, controlled by the ECU. Throttle bodies: GSX-R1000, don't know which year. Secondary butterflies removed, spacing modified. Injectors: GSX-R1000, 310cc/min at increased fuel pressure, probably 280cc/min at standard 3 bar pressure. Ignition coils: Audi stick coils with integrated drivers. Fuel system: Some external Walbro pump, Malpassi regulator, base pressure 4 bar (increased to get more flow from the injectors). Here is a dyno graph on 0.5 bar boost. That was maximum what the injectors were capable for.

Thanks! It's pretty nice indeed. However, the turbo and engine should be capable fore some more, let's see if I bother to crank up the boost and dyno it again at some point