Arttu

Yes, the Kat has smaller stator diameter than other GS1100s. I'm not sure if the Kat has both small and big taper versions as well. At least small taper has been used but I don't know if it was changed to big taper on 83' model like on other GSs.

I would try to get the sensor at least 20-30cm away from the turbine exit. And at least same distance from end of the pipe to prevent fresh air getting on the sensor. But if your piping is too short for these figures just place the sensor in the middle. It probably works just fine...

At least it's a good idea to check what the stock timing actually is on your engine. A couple of air cooled engines that I have checked have been about 10 degrees off from factory spec with stock parts...

I have just IHI BB turbo but I know that also Garrets are used without water cooling. Yes, there is some risk for bearing failure as most of the BB turbos use plastic ball holders on bearings. But if you have the turbo on front of the engine or some other place with good air flow and take care of proper oil supply it should be fine. When I was building my current turbo setup I had some plans to route oil cooler flow through water passages of the chra. But plumbing started to look too tricky so I gave up the idea.

Yes, depends on what you are aiming for. From top of my head TD04-13 is good for 230-250hp. So if that is good enough for you then it might be a nice solution, good spool up and response for that power. But if you are aiming for any higher hp figures then it's better to look for something bigger.

Me and my big mouth... It was a bit harder than I anticipated as spare engine buried under the work desk was there wrong way around. It's quite heavy lump even if some heavy parts are missing. Any ways, yes, it's M14x1.5.

From top of my head I would say M14x1.5 but I'm not 100% sure... I can check later if needed.

Well, I would say that 240F (115C) is slightly on warm side but nothing alarming and even quite normal in slow traffic and warm weather. Normal operating range is something like 175-210F (80-100C) but usually it will get higher in slow traffic. You need some air flow to cool the engine no matter how big cooler you have. So only way to prevent temp rise when moving slowly would be an electric fan...

No problem, just let me know when. Though I don't have any reaydy in stock right now but I should make more of them any ways.

Yes, if you are using "normal" coils with separate driver then you can connect the rev counter to negative primary wire of another coil. Just like with stock electronics and it should work fine. If you use a coil with integrated driver it gets a bit trickier as you can't access coil primary connections. Then you can use one of general purpose outputs of the Microsquirt. Those are grounding type so you need some external stuff as well to make rev counter working. In simplest case that would mean just resistor between the rev counter wire and +12V. Most likely the rev counter will work with this but some counters are picky and may need even further tricks. One option could be hooking the counter to injector output. I haven't tried this but it should work as well. Then you just need set number of injections per revolution correctly to get correct reading.

Yes, Microsquirt needs a separate driver to drive coils. And that is just standard practice with it, no problems if done correctly. I think easiest options are either use Dyna or whatever "normal" coils with some driver like this: http://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/bosch-668873.html Or alternatively use a coil pack with integrated drivers, for example this one: http://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/febi-bilstein-1883650.html

Have you tried search already? Microsquirt should be fine. 750 throttle bodies are probably good choice as well but better to check dimensions before buying. 600 ones might be easier to fit in intake boots. Most likely you need to adjust spacing any ways, old GPZ1100 TB's are only ones with correct spacing that I know. For crank trigger it's probably easiest to use original pickup and make new wheel for it. I would recommend 24-2 pattern though 36-1 might be easier to source. For engine temp I would mount sensor on the head or cylinder block. I have been using a generic NTC thermistor from electronics shop glued on 6mm ring terminal and mounted on cam chain tensioner bolt. If it's normally aspirated engine any air temp sensor will do, boosted engines need fast reacting one. (Edit: Just noticed there is a turbo mentioned so you need a fast reacting air temp sensor. Bosch 0 280 130 085 would be my choice.) I'm too lazy to write complete quide here but if you have any specific questions feel free to ask. I might have some suitable base settings for your case somewhere on my hard disk if you need them at some point.

Yes, if you are going to use an external gate then it's better to weld internal one. In theory you can also just clamp it shut but welding is probably simpler and more reliable. But then it's completely another question if you really need to use an external gate. If the internal one is properly sized it will work just fine for most purposes. And usually you can also improve the internal gate by porting the gate for better flow or even changing the gate vale to bigger one. Routing the outlet pipe of an external gate is pretty much personal choice. Just think about what you want to do with those exhaust gases. From functionality point of view a dump pipe to atmosphere is perfectly fine and provides least amount of restriction. As downside it will make some noise when the gate opens and gases may melt or stain something if you don't think about routing.

Some possible reasons: -Many turbos don't have integral waste gate, especially larger ones. -They look cool -Quite often integral gates are too small or otherwise badly flowing. That causes boost creep so boost climbs higher than wastegate pressure at high rpm.

I'm not sure if I got your point here Any way, if you use an EFI pump in carb system at lower pressure it will produce at least as much flow as on EFI system at higher pressure. In practice it will flow more at low pressure. And also fuel heating will be smaller at low pressure as the pump doesn't need to work as hard. So generally I don't see any problem in using EFI pump with carbs and return style pressure regulator. Given that pump sizing is at correct ball park. Maximum pressure capability of the pump doesn't play any role there since the regulator will always keep the pressure lower by bleeding excess fuel back to the tank. Important figure is pump flow at your working pressure. With deadhead regulator it would be completely different situation as the pump would push maximum pressure against the regulator when there is no flow to carbs.

Nope, flow increases if pressure is lower.

Well, yes, either works. But normal practise with EFI is connect it after TBs. Or to be more precise, to the same point where the injectors inject. Idea there is to keep pressure across the injector constant so that injected fuel amount will depend only on injector pulse length. Sure it will work also plenum referenced but then you need to compensate pressure variance with fuel table tuning. Though it probably isn't any significant problem in most of the cases it's one unnecessary variable for tuning. And with large injectors it might make idle tuning more difficult since injector flow will increase on vacuum.

No idea about carbs. But just for curiosity, why he wants to use a TL engine?

1. Fuel pressure regulator - after TBs 2. Wastegate - usually plenum, can be connected also after TBs 3. BOV - after TBs 4. MAP sensor - after TBs (unless the ECU setup is something less typical) 5. Boost gauge - whichever. If the gauge shows only positive pressure connect to plenum. If it shows also vacuum connect after TBs.

About 100 euro. It may vary a bit depending on how much I have to pay for laser cutting and pickup sensor.

Dyna 2000 is designed to work also with 2 Ohm Dyna coils so in that sense it should be able to run COPs at least as well than stock ECU. I guess the benefit would be pretty much the same than when replacing the stock coils. Green Dyna coils are very close to the stock coils in the end. At least you would get rid of the plug leads.

Yes, basically the same than turbo regarding air and fuel arrangements. Getting reliable drive from crank is often the tricky part. Blower1 is definitely knows a thing or two how to make a supercharged bike to work. He has evolved his setup quite a lot over the years. I have had a privilege to test ride his bike few times in different configurations. First one with draw through setup was quite horrible for street use but in current form it behaves really well.

Well, based on my limited experience with superchargers I would make it as blow through system. So charger - plenum - carbs or throttle bodies - engine. Traditionally supercharger setups are often doen as draw through but it can be a bit tricky to get good and predictable throttle response with that, especially if volume between the charger and engine can't be kept minimal. With blow through you definitely need a BOV valve. As usual charger selection depends on your power target, budget etc. If you are trying to keep budget low then the most obvious choice is a second hand unit off from some car. Those are usually roots type Eatons with some odd exceptions. With larger budget you can start thinking if you want a roots charger or centrifugal one or even screw type one. Each one has their own pros and cons.

Yes, there is a risk of frying the coils or ECU or both. Especially if you don't know what you are doing and just wire in some random coils without proper checks and measurements. But on the other hand, with typical bike COP coils there is a good change it will work quite fine. That's a short answer Then a bit longer backround story. There are some fundamental differences between older ignition systems using 3-5 Ohm coils and later ones using COP coils. The older systems usually don't control coil charging time (dwell), they just charge coil most part of the engine revolution. That results varying and relatively long dwell time. For example at 3000rpm dwell might be something like 15-18ms and at 12000 rpm maybe 3-4ms. Coils are then designed to work with that. Coil primary resistance limits the charging current on safe level, 3 Ohm at 12V battery voltage won't exceed 4A current no matter how long you charge the coil. Coils are also designed so that they need quite long dwell time to output full spark power. Downside of this simple system is that spark power will decrease within rpm (after some point) as the dwell time gets shorter. Also even maximum spark power is relatively low since charging current can't be increased much without burning coils or driver electronics. To improve these shortcomings the later systems use coils with lower resistance and shorter charging time. Typical bike COP coil has 1-1.5 Ohm primary resistance and needs only 1-3ms dwell to reach full charge. To keep charging current and coil heating at reasonable level the ECU then must control the dwell time. So coil will get constant dwell time before each spark regardless the rpm. Typical peak charging current values for these coils are 6-10A, so clearly more than with older system. But since charging needs only small portion of the engine revolution the total current draw of ignition system is usually even smaller than with older systems. So what happens when you pair these COP coils with older ECU? If you connect them in series and they happen to have resistance from higher end of the range, like 1.2 to 1.5 Ohms, the total resistance will be at acceptable level. For example two 1.3 Ohm coils will result 2.6 Ohm and 4.6A maximum current at 12V which is still probably fine for ECU that is designed for 3 Ohm coils. For the coils that current is a bit low so you won't get full spark power out of them. Though the spark might be still better than with original coils. On the other hand the coils are now getting charged at much higher percentage of time than they are designed for (like 80-90% vs. 10-30%) which may affect their reliability. Then if you happen to get coils with sub 1 Ohm resistance or if you connect them parallel the charging current can get so high that the ECU will burn immediately. So like said in short answer, the results may vary a lot depending on coils and other parameters. There is a risk to fry ECU or coils immediately or reduce their life expectancy significantly. But with little luck it may work just fine and reliably. Of course you can always replace the luck with some investigations and measurements

Pretty nice improvement indeed.