Arttu

Do you happen to have any numbers how big the power increase was? Yes, adding a cooler isn't too big or expensive effort IF you have space. But usually finding the space is the main challenge, at least for me. Of course it depends heavily on what kind compromises you can do to arrange space.

Here is an another thread slightly relating to this topic: On general level cooling the charge air always helps. It reduces risk of detonation and increases air density which means more power. In practice results will vary a lot. Main factor there is boost pressure, more pressure means hotter air so effect of cooling gets bigger. On low boost it might be challenging to achieve significant improvements. The cooler must be pretty optimal to gain substantial temperature drop on relatively cool air. Then on high boost level air temp gets way higher than ambient temp so even less optimal cooler can produce significant temp drop. Also detonation sensitivity and air density loss increase quickly with boost pressure and temp rise so it makes sense to cool air somehow when using high boost. So how much is low or high boost then? That's a bit relative question. Based on my experience 0.5 bar is definitely low boost, no point to bother with intercooling unless you are doing an ultimate "no costs or efforts saved" build. 1 bar is somewhere borderline, some cooling will definitely help there but you can still get pretty good results without it if everything else is well designed. Over 1 bar it definitely makes sense to use some charge cooling, intercooler or water injection. Unfortunately it's quite difficult to find good "apples to apples" comparisons on this topic. Only case that I have been involved with is my friend's drag bike that got intercooler in the middle of season without any other changes. At ~2 bar boost intake temps went down from 160C to 90C and as expected terminal speeds on quarter mile got higher with less boost

Yep. The gear that's on pump's shaft and mating gear behind the clutch basket. You need GS750 gears or aftermarket "high volume gears" for GSX1100. Actually as far as I know also the aftermarket gears are genuine Suzuki parts for GS750...

I run that setup for several years and maybe 20000km without problems. I also measured the pressure from the engine main oil gallery, that feeds the crank bearings, after all these modifications and it was about the same than on stock engine. Now I'm using a ball bearing turbo that probably would work on lower pressure. But I'm still feeding about 2-3 bar for it to ensure sufficient cooling for the bearings.

Normal procedure goes pretty much like Slingy explained. So first thing is to change the pump gears to 750 ones to get about 30% more oil flow. As far as I know there aren't any other gear options commercially available. This flow increase alone doesn't help pressure much. With cool oil it may increase pressure significantly but once oil is in normal operating temp pressure usually drops below 0.5 bar which is way too little for plain bearing turbos (except Rajays). So next step is to add some restriction to the main oil supply route from the filter and take oil to the turbo before restriction. When done right this will give about 2-4 bar for the turbo and still enough oil for rest of the engine. Easiest way to do this is make a take-off plug in place of the oil pressure light switch. In practice this seem to work well enough but there are still some drawbacks. Oil pressure will be low at low rpm and pressure will vary quite lot depending on oil viscosity and temp. A bit more sophisticated solution would be some kind spring loaded relief valve in place of the restrictor. That should guarantee pretty constant pressure for turbo. Unfortunately making such system would be a bit more complicated. Here are a couple of pics how I did this take-off years ago.

Sounds like a plan I wouldn't bother with the GPZ injectors. They are quite primitive compared to modern ones and over 30 years old now. Many car injectors fit directly on GPZ TBs though you need to make a new fuel rail. For example these should fit: http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=01D034x&eq=&Tp For GSX1400 injectors you probably will need all kind adapter things to make them fit. I'm using 24-2 trigger wheel on my GSX now. Seems to work quite nicely. I have also sold few of these sets to others and haven't got any bad feedback by this far. 12 teeth trigger might be slightly risky for starting, depending on your compression ratio, ECU algorithms and many other factors, BTDT

Yes, that's quite a lot. Maybe ok for tuning phase if actual fuel table isn't completely finalized. Usually when I start tuning the fuel table from scratch I first turn lambda correction completely off. Once the table start getting the shape so that engine is driveable I may turn it on and allow 15-20% maximum correction. This helps to keep the engine running smoothly while doing test rides and taking data logs. When analyzing the logs it's easy to determine required adjustments from correction and AFR values. When I'm happy with the fuel table I reduce lambda correction to 5-10% or turn it completely off.

Thanks for experimenting and reporting results! It seems that MS wheel decoder has progressed quite a lot from MS1. Back in days I tried several trigger combinations and 12-1 was lowest missing tooth wheel that was giving somewhat reliable starting. But it's good to keep in mind that results may vary a lot depending engine compression ratio, crank/flywheel weight and many other details. So if possible I would recommend to play safe and use a bit more teeth on trigger.

Like already suggested try first cranking without plugs. That makes cranking speed more stable so the ECU can detect the missing tooth easier. If that helps then you can start playing with missing tooth timing to get it working with plugs in. Even though many guys have got 50mm 36-1 wheel working with STD pickup I think it's getting quite small for that big tooth number. So I wouldn't be surprised if it wouldn't work with some individual pickup. Btw, have you already updated the MS2-extra firmware to the Microsquirt? If not, I would recommend doing it right now. That may not help with the trigger issue (though it may help too) but anyways it will make your life much easier later on.

So, is this GSX1100 or GS1000 clutch and primary gears? On GSX1100 the stock helical primary gears are ok for maybe 200hp in street use (no hard launches with sticky tire). Probably it won't explode immediately even with higher power but more torque you have more side loading there will be for the clutch and crank. So it depends on power, use, budget and so on... But for over 200hp I would seriously consider straight cut gears if budget isn't too limited.

I wouldn't bother with cam sensor just for sequential ignition. Most likely benefits are minimal and it takes some serious effort get a sensor properly installed. Wasted spark with proper coils works just fine in most of the cases. Custom wheel with stock VR sensor should be fine too. I would suggest 24-2 pattern if you are going to get the wheel done for your specs. It seems to provide enough resolution and you get larger tooth size than for example with 36-1 pattern.

I'm not expert on oil cooled engines but I have understood that properly prepped diaghpram clutch can hold some serious power too. I think typical solution is to use two springs and it should be good for maybe +250hp and still be quite ok for fingers. For the EFI both Microsquirt and GSX-R600 TBs are good choices. Injector selection dpends on your power target. For 250-300hp I would use something from 500-700cc range. One important choice is ignition, if you are going to control it with the ECU or not. If you are going to use the Microsquirt for ignition too then some extra stuff is needed for crank triggering and coils.

Hi, That's a nice looking GS! As far as I know the 493 rods should be really strong. I know that they are used on even funny bikes and other extreme engines producing 400-600hp. Some people claim they are stronger than any aftermarket rods. Does Carillo rods for roller bearing cranks? I thought they have only two piece rods for plain bearing cranks...

Well, if it's going to be a draw through then you need carbon sealing. Can't say from top of my head if T3/T4 will be too big for your engine. But as general note, if it's a drag bike you can probably use relative large turbo without too much problems.

By this far I haven't found any good way to calculate turbine sizing. For compressor it's much easier. For turbine side there are more unknown or hard to get variables like total exhaust gas flow, flow through wastegate etc. And turbine flow data for different turbos is quite scarce too. So I think you would first need data from some turbine option on your engine (or something similar), how quickly it spools, what is the exhaust pressure or whatever you can get. Then you can try to estimate if you want to go bigger or smaller. Bigger will result less exhaust back pressure and therefore more power at same boost, especially at top end. As downside it will build boost later and slower. Smaller one would be opposite, naturally.

On the other hand you probably will have hard time finding rebuilt or new carbon sealed turbo for less money. But yes, definitely a good idea to investigate a bit further if the sizing is suitable for your application. No point to pay for something that doesn't do what you want.

Just let me know if you need help with troubleshooting. If you have a multimeter and you can use it I can provide instructions what to measure to figure out what is going on there.

All right, then there is something wrong. With wiring, the Dyna, Microsquirt or settings. Is the Microsquirt new or used one? So should it be ok or is there a change that it might be faulty? The OPTOIN circuit in the Microsquirt is slightly poorly designed and it can get burned quite easily. At first I would suggest connecting the OPTOIN- to ground and then manually tapping the OPTOIN+ to some +12V point, like battery positive terminal. That should produce some random rpm reading on the tuning software (TunerStudio?) if the settings and Microsquirt are ok. If you like you can send your settings file to me for review. Btw, what firmware you are using, original Microsquirt or MS2-extra? If original I would recommend upgrading to MS2-extra right away to save headaches later on. Any modern (2000 onwards) stock bike injectors are most likely high impedance.

Usually they do just fine on bikes. There the turbo gets plenty of cooling air and you don't run them continuously on boost to get the exhaust side glowing red. Unlike on cars.

It can be done, no problems. Connect OPTOIN+ to Dyna tach wire and OPTOIN- to ground. That should work. This was from top of my head so names might be wrong etc. Just let me know if you can't get it working. We can then walk through it in details.

Reminds me a case when we did similar test ride with a friend. He had a big bore Kat, about 140hp, I had the first turbo revision of my 1100E, maybe 180hp that time. First we swapped bikes, agreed to ride about 20km and then swap back. Once we got in the turning point he was smiling from ear to ear and asked if he could ride it back too

This might help: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1IIrxmjyvwgXI-tWVbi4f0P5GhcMPC7CxXQCZ6dYVad0/edit#gid=1 According that the length is 337mm.

How much power you are looking for? 1464cc comp bike sounds like quite high hp. Any ways, if it will be a draw through then you will need a turbo with carbon seal. Choices are then quite limited, either get some old Rajay that has carbon seal from factory or get some other turbo modified by a turbo specialist.

Agree. If choke (whatever it does in this case) affects to the problem then probably it isn't crank trigger related.

Actually it isn't always that simple. It's quite common problem that crank pick up starts reading noise when boost goes up. Logic behind this is that ignition needs more voltage to break a spark when pressure in the cylinder increases. This also increases electrical interference generated by ignition system and quite often the crank pick up is the first thing that get offended.