Gixer1460

Could be Hazards then? Unlikely but possible?

Anti wheelie device LOL!

Re : Earlier question about the turbo - it could be a T2 or a T25, they also had 5 / 6 bolt outlet flanges - well my T2 did. Do you know the power output as my T2 had everything max'd out for flow and made 210rwhp max @ 10psi - wouldn't make any more but it was still internally gated so it probably didn't help.

Yeah - good call, or shite in the switch?

Put anything in the firing line of road shite and water and it'll fail - electrics moreso! It's an unnecessary complication that can be simplified with a fuse instead and easier to protect. They maybe not very expensive but when failed beside the road - that doesn't help!

Oil boilers do not have a reputation for low oil pressure and as most switches trigger at stupidly low pressure it is a sign of a problem ....... they usually have an excess of pressure and flow so have to bleed excess off. No oil changes and bodgy meckniks don't bode well i'm afraid! The best place to test is main galley plug on the RH side of the crankcase where a gauge could be fitted and get an accurate reading.

Anyone know what happened to Ian King's bike - I did ask him years ago but he said it went to fund racing and not sure of its whereabouts at that time? There are so many great specials that seem to have faded from existence - where are they all?

Make sure to use a fully weather protected one or at least get it out of the shite firing line - that's what does the 'clicky breakers' in

Had a look and it's no 'Box' - just a plain endurance special and a Yam at that! And feckin' expensive! I think my m8 picked his 'box up for 2 or 3 grand about 10 odd years ago.............oh the times are a changin!

Eggzackery!

That's what most of us have done or replace it with a 30A fuse and a spare!

Got a link? Wouldn't mind a gander! PM me if the nazis get shirty!

Ian's one was a work of art - so many bits that were just plain desirable! Re : HarriBox engines - I know of one built for water filled Kwak motors - a ZZR1100 currently is in residence........ it's a great fat porker of a bike though!

Can someone explain the last 5 or 6 posts to me cos it doesn't make any sense whatsoever! Unless you have a Hemi, pretty much every engine combustion chamber will extend to near the bore diameter in some direction whilst being inset in others - this is usually matched by the piston crown. Where the inset is placed, is where the most 'squish' effect occurs and is designed to induce a turbulent mixture and squeeze it toward the plug to be ignited. A 750 matches an 1100 chamber shape but shallower which increases the CR. Throwing an 1216 kit at an 1100 increases squish (as the head chamber profile hasn't changed so the piston has more 'real estate' to work against) Adding a DOT head may increase that effect a bit more.

Query - are you bracket racing ie. 10.5 break out or ET dial in racing - different animals and different approaches? I actually believe that ET Dial In, Heads up racing is the hardest class to do well in - good luck!

Actually 29.5 degrees - see attached map.

Difficult to suggest figures but yours are about where mine ended up - but mine runs to 2 bar boost, is injected and has compensations so not a direct comparison - you could add 1 deg to whole map from 3000 / 150kpa up if you know fuelling is good.

Very safe i'd say! Does the ecu that you use have additional compensation maps for IAT and CT - these can be of more assistance by allowing a more 'generous' main map and then trimming the extremes at elevated temps.

'Spose no chain is endless until it's joined LOL!

You guys aren't looking at the application! It seems to me an ET bike needs to leave reliably and quick enough to get sufficient lead advantage to be able to back off to not break out and still finish first? A turbo is all back half rush so playing catch up - may cross the line first but lose on a break-out!

Any chain will wear through use - nothing can stop that. But resistance to stretch or deformation is the prerequisite for a HD chain - and a Hyvo chain qualifies.

Nitrous engines are incredibly detonation prone, they build heat extremely quickly and pound the hell out of bearings. Turbos are big softies in comparison!

Std rods are critical after 250hp in a Nitrous motor, and pushing the limit around 300hp in a turbo - that's with a non det. prone tune. Busa rods may be a little stronger but Carillo's (or any H beam rod) are sooooo much more resilient, it pays to use them rather than find the limits with lesser items. If it was me - H beam rods anytime over 240-250+ hp! Build a bullet proof bottom end and you can fit ANYTHING to the top end!

And oil delivery failure probably killed the rest! Falicon's are particularly susceptible to this from what i've seen!

Used Tsubaki and DID - std and HD and couldn't tell the difference - only broke a chain once and that was a std, and probably at 'end of life' anyway! Personally unless going mega on cams and rpm's i'd stick with std from either of the above. If you've got a Blandit crank to use, then the Hyvo chain is stronger!