Gixer1460

Agreed - cv's won't tend to pull through the mid-range if the jetting ain't right. It's unlikely a jet kit will be available, so a Dyno session may be the solution or you'll be forever fiddling with them!

If you connect it all up as std., run it and check the timing with a strobe on #1 lead. Then swap the dyna wires blue & white for each other then swap plug leads 1/4 and 2/3, run again and the strobe 0n #3 will use the 1/4 marks checked first time but will apply to the 2/3 trigger which can now be adjusted to get the line matched. I've never tried this and take no responsibility etc - I just eyeballed settings on mine and never pushed the timing limits to be worried about +/- 2 degrees or so!

They are for the same stroke as GSX1000 Katana, GSX1100 Katana, EFE and GS1100G @ 66mm, so I can't see how they are shorter. But if they were, they would be too long for GS1000 @ 64.8mm and would change the rod / crank angle - but that could be a benefit? And can assure you that pro drag racing engine builders look considerably further than the end of their beaks if there are advantages to give an edge! I've no axe to grind either way - just trying to establish correct information.

Did you fill the new oil filter - not actually necessary on a recently running bike but would present an 'airlock' on one that has been sitting? The GSXR has two independent oil systems driven by a single pump - the one you've disconnected the hoses from is low pressure / high volume oil coolant system. The other is high pressure / lower volume for bearings - crank, rods, cams and gearbox. Easiest access point for this is RHS of engine under the ign. pick-up cover - engine main gallery so will be fairly obvious if now or low oil pressure LOL! PDF's of the Suzuki Workshop manual are around on the net - they are big files -230Mb from memory! You could try backfilling the pump with heavier wt. oil - 20w/50 should be sufficient - fill oil lines and rotate engine backwards via the rotor - one crank turn sufficient.

Why would they be any stronger? And if they were - why aren't the drag racers all over them? Their preference being 493 'Katana' rods for the past near 40 years!

Fookin' hell - I know fek all about watter filled engines - only asking questions!

83mm Gen 1 Hayabusa pistons? Aftermarket? as Gen 1 Busa pistons are 81mm! Couldn't you bore std barrels to take steel liners?

Yep - thats what I use on copper head gaskets - will be fine on barrel base gasket or use a couple of waxed paper gaskets. if you are still running oil up the studs, some form of sealant is recommended.

Funnily enough I mentioned this to Sean @ BigCC yesterday in passing and he whipped out a broken pin that had gone on the dyno! It had multiple pulls and was making 542bhp at failure - it was from a 1000cc bike and 15mm dia! Mentioned 18mm GSX - his words - 'No problem!'

Pins are just not a problem until you reach REALLY high loads ie. 40+psi boost, excessive Nitrous or Nitro fuels - be more concerned about the pistons and rods and the oil system to keep THEM alive!

Stock or whatever comes with the aftermarket piston you use. At that output you won't be stressing the pins!

1 - doesn't a 2mm gasket just put you back to regular compression? 2 - No reason to run much bigger than stock Blandit in either case. 3 - You could provided they are going into fresh bored barrels - if not - replace 4 - The stock ignition advance is ok for off and low boost applications 6-7psi But what you need is a way of retarding it at higher figures, that means smarter ignition system. Could slot the timing plate but that just compromises the timing EVERYWHERE! 5 - Oh Dear ! That rarely works or results in a successful outcome. From past experience - set your budget ......... and double it!

Don't know about the CB13 but Bandit being GSXR based will. Going the other way ie. GSX on to GSXR won't usually! 4-1 bandit exhausts can be ugly suckers though, low hanging and lop sided.

A $9000 Ward Vortex II cylinder head (15 years ago) just to lose 8v's - sounds extreme LOL!

And a source of 100+ octane fuel LOL!

Yeah Yeah - whatever!

Or, as no one else has said it, gearbox output shaft seal !

I am (to save the extra aggro) but stud holes opened up a little to reduce the restriction whilst using HD studs.

Not a very good picture but this was created for my turbo 1460, and it does still get hot but not ridiculous!

Wow - seems my 1186 motor making 144hp wasn't too bad! M head with only port clean up, 36mm CV's, Dynojetted, std cams, Dyna 2000 and a 4-2-1 one off pipe set and V&H Supersport can.

They are really only meant for 1/4 mile use - most won't even get ridden down to the start line or back from the top end due to heat build up! Bimbling around - even slowly off boost - builds heat where it can't be got rid of. IMO - leave solid dry blocks to dragstrip use only!

Result !

Fairly unlikely! If crank has roller bearings it has low pressure / high flow oil system so the pressure switch triggers with just about 1psi pressure whereas a shell bearing crank - 750ET, GSXR or most cars will run with 30+psi pressure but light is triggered as low as 5psi. As the switches do nothing but turn off a light, alternative switches will work but fittings are particular to the oil system!

If you take the stock hoses to a hydraulics place - Pirtek for example - they could make up complete new hoses, they will look 'industrial' but should be cheap enough!

Good pictures but fairly extreme for 'home porting'. All depends on use, ie. the above good for competition but epoxy work and shortened guides IMO really not good idea for a road bike long term. I've cleaned up a few heads - car and bike, and can't give conclusive improvement results as this work was usually done with other improvements not independently! Only advice i'd offer is don't go mad removing metal, just clean off flash and mold lines, blend manifolds / gaskets / ports to each other, semi rough grind finish to inlet port - exhaust can be more polished, watch out for the valve seats as easy to 'kiss' with the stone then they'll need cutting !