Gixer1460

If you ain't a millionaire - who is? - then stick to bolt on goodies / easy stuff and leave the skilled stuff to people who can spend the dough! A simple port clean up with 80 / 120 grit emery through a stick as a flap wheel, take the casing marks out of the port and blend to inlet rubbers can be done at home and you could attempt the short turn radius but just blend it - leave the carbide burrs and die grinders alone. Bigger valves will require seat cutting anyway, so 3 angle cut is optimal. Wouldn't touch the chambers.

Usual causes for 'hanging rpm' is an air leak on engine side of the throttles or frayed throttle cable inner catching on the outer!

Why do you automatically assume they need changing? You don't know what size they actually are so why assume they are wrong? Pilots are very rarely touched by dyno guys as stock is usually close enough for anything! If the fault ONLY occurs when braking, it may not be carb related at all ? ? ?

Hmmm! IMO Class is out on valve guides. Personally i've never done it (cut them down) or felt the need to do it but I do like turbo's where valve support / heat transfer is more important. I wouldn't cut exhaust guides down whatever but bullets maybe ok (i've used tapered bronze guides)? No empirical evidence for increased wear with flattened guides but common sense says it can't be better than long guides!

I'm no 'engine builder' ! That's not to say I haven't built engines - the two aren't the same! Only you can answer the how's and where the engine is to be used, what you are prepared to accept and how long you want it to last with how much maintenance - all these things affect how the engine is or should be built! The piston manufacturer doesn't know if the chamber is std or worked on, stock height or decked - I'm guessing they may work backward from using a stock engine figures and change bore size and chamber volume - who knows, as they don't publish that info! As to the squish question - 1.0mm is regarded as a safe minimum for a road bike / light race bike which (if you want to risk it) can be tightened to 0.75 - 0.6mm but carries no guarantees especially if you buzz it!

You have to bear in mind that you don't know what spec the 'engine' was when the piston manufacturer calculated the CR the piston will / should give! I think a std 1127 engine has a chamber vol. of 26cc? so a half or a whole cc can make a difference especially if the eventual build gives a CR closer to 12.5 or 13:1? A dry build to fully cc the chambers and calculate the ACTUAL CR is well recommended. I built a 1186 kit years ago with 12.5 wiseco pistons and run with std chambers / un-decked head and 98 octane 4* leaded fuel that used to pink like a bastard during summer use - so beware. anything is possible.

Unless you have facilities to skim the head, I wouldn't touch the chambers as you will lose CR by doing so. Also if you are using 12:1 pistons the chamber volumes need to be accurately matched - easy to remove metal - tricky to add it back! If you are a 3rd world country what is the quality of your fuel like - not sure 12:1 CR will work too well with piss poor fuel? 30 / 26mm valves can use std. seats. What will the engine be used for as this will affect recommendations as regards porting / guides / valve seats / reliability / longevity / maintenance?

The chassis / engine number will relate to year/month it was built, but it may not have been sold until the next year which is what is noted on the V5! My Daily is on a 52 plate but is actually a 2001 model year.

That doesn't sound very cheap to me! There really isn't much to an anodising process - lots of degreasing / washing / caustic dipping / acid dipping / dyeing / washing etc. Most anodising dyes are 'flat' colours with a satin finish being the most blingy. One thing to note is that you will have to remove EVERY piece / bit of steel from the frame and the arm before as the corrosive chemicals will destroy them!

I read the words which make sense but still doesn't jive with slotting the plate! Having a 'fixed' timing is not unusual - it just infers that it stays at 10 degrees or whatever it's set to and won't be influenced by increased revs, coolant temps or whatever. If it does have a truly fixed timing - what is it ? because if you don't know, you could retard it past TDC! Daft system - supposing the engine idled at 700 rpm - what the hell would it be doing then? Is the system one of these? Just out of interest - http://www.racetechdev.co.uk/products.html - the EMX-01 seems a sophisticated device so the above seems strange!

If you have a mappable ignition . . . . . . . . why are you slotting the pick up plate as that'll change the entire map? Doesn't make sense - just adjust the cells below idle?

That's about right! . . . . . Next!

Never seen a cover like that with a 'bump' to the side - thought all had a central rectangular breather / oil trap with removable cover - learn something new everyday! The Hyvo chain arrangement as only fitted to Blandits? and i'm fairly sure i've swapped GSF 12 covers with GSXR 11 and vice versa so chain shouldn't be a factor or I didn't notice anything and its grinding its way through the cover ! LOL!

Not what you want to hear but the 91 / 92 heads have the best flowing ports as std. Why are you keen to swap?

Still could be a vacuum leak via the inlet rubbers? 4 turns on the mix screws would usually point toward next size required. 7k would be top end of the needle / onto the main jet although if the revs climb then the Mj can't be hugely out but without a wideband its guesswork!

Did the problem switch / follow the coils? If it didn't and you've swapped the ECU then it's either a wire break or a duff 2/3 pick-up!

Not sure where that rumour has come from as pretty much every oil pump using this design, runs steel 'gears' in aluminium housings and they run for years, usually only failing due to 'foreign bodies' going through them. Maybe 'soft' aluminium was used and hence wear occured? I'd be tempted to use HE30 / 6000 series for better machinability?

All this discussed multiple times - use search - read the stuff - then ask your questions ! ! ! Yes i'm a miserable old fucker thats fed up to the back teeth sitting indoors not being able to do anything constructive except read the same questions written by newbies who want instant gratification without doing any research - how do you think people did it 20-25 years ago before the internet? We read books / magazines and just built stuff - sometimes badly and sometimes spectacularly good. The info is out there - just do the research! Rant Over! ps. Use the Blandit engine - life is hard enough, don't make it worse using a GS!

That sequence always seemed odd to me! My sequence (using those numbers) would be, 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 6, 5, 12, 9, 11 & 10. Got nothing against the Suzuki sequence just doesn't seem logical?

I've used std retainers with heavier springs in turbo engines without drama but they aren't high reving. The optional Ti retainers are primarily used in high rpm NA engines where the lightness reduces the chances of valve float IMO. If you are using std. retainers with bigger cams, i'd definitely keep the rpm's under control.

As the OP is a Yankee, it is likely to be '93 so it is neither air cooled nor a Katana !

You guys don't get 'tongue in cheek' comments do you!

Could be if that seat support gives way! LOL!

There was a UK ProMod / Funnybike with a 1800 / 1850 GSX Nitrous set-up - very, VERY spendy when it went wrong - 90+mm pistons I believe?

Yeah - there you go! You lost me at 'First' !