Gixer1460

Can't imagine why a 1200 Blandit motor in a 750 chassis would be preferable over a GSXR 1100, especially if NA, so that's that question answered! As regards which is better for added boost, they are pretty much the same engine internally and gearbox wise - the Blandit has the factory undercut 'M' gears which is good, hyvo cam chain equally good, maybe 'softer' cams (never sure if there is much difference) but the Blandito does have slightly thicker liners in the block so a bit stronger in that department. Assuming the GSXR isn't an 'M' or 'N' with shimmed valves, life should be good although shimmed heads work quite nicely in turbo engines and NA if you control the revs! All in all - a non question LOL!

My 1186 kitted GSXR used to pink before unleaded was even a thing! (showing my age) in summer and going up hills. Wasn't bad enough to cause damage, just let you know it wasn't happy at that time! You can run whatever CR you like provided you can control fuel and spark better than std. OEM! With more accurate fuelling you minimise lean hot spots causing detonation and accurate adjustment of ign. timing particularly around the mid range / peak torque areas stops det. occurring. Simplest way is EFI or at least mappable Ignition . . . . . . . . . without this i'd pull it back to 10.5 - 11:1 IMO.

Surely the workshop manual must detail this area - especially if its this difficult to remove! All earlier and later GS's, GSX's and GSXR's, F's and GSF's are 6 or 7 bolts + remove gear lever and cover comes off - NOTE : not loosen gear lever - REMOVE it!

re : the above last point, considering the advanced / newer design, they 'almost' succeeded - they are a f**kin' heavy chunk, not quite GSX heavy but certainly GSXR 1100 LOL!

Can't see clearly but is that a removable access cover - the rectangular plate?

Firstly, if you haven't already, get a manual - even the Haynes ones are better that nowt, especially for this. Its possible to displace the R clip off the LH side of the shift shaft which allows it to move inward and disengage the shifter ratchet behind the clutch - this is fairly common diagnosis of your symptoms.

Only wondered what's happening with this - long time no post ! Does it make noise and smell nasty yet?

? ? ? - its a one piece crank! Whether a reliable weld could be achieved is questionable - failure could be again worse than the repair. Would I chance it unrepaired - maybe in a streetbike / daily hack but a turbo bike - hmmm, I don't think so! Best ask a crank builder / expert . . . . Rupperton would be a good shout!

Lock-up is a std. / normal MTC snowflake type. IMO, a knife edged crank isn't much benefit in a turbo engine - if you are chasing power, its the rods you want to change!

As a couple of posts up - Motul Mineral 10w/40 so that's pretty well ruled out although not entirely ! I still want to know about the fibres and clutch metal parts wear ?

And it doesn't break at the most inconvenient moment! Had two cables break and one almost ready to against hydraulics that once bled were faultless and never touched again - just sayin' like!

Info from American Performance Engineering (APE) website.

And wear, chrome being harder than steel. All true if they were actually chrome bores . . . . . which they aren't! The Busa block is all aluminium, no steel liners, and uses Nikasil coating - Nickel Silicon Carbide, harder than Chrome and plated onto Aluminium allows tighter piston to bore clearances and better heat transfer. EDIT : Suzuki actually use a patented coating SCEM ( Suzuki Composite Electro-Chemical Material) which uses Nickel Phosphorus Silicon Carbide.

Totally unnecessary on an 1100 - keep it for 'baby' 750's. And more feel argument is bollux IMO - hydraulic fluid is non compressible ie. pressure in = pressure out, cables stretch / compress = less accuracy ! All reasonable points. And if that lever is static / at rest, then something is deffo incorrect - I would expect to at least stretch my fingers straight to start pulling a correctly functional lever & clutch! I think std bore size is 14mm? but don't quote me on that!

I don't make the rules - I just explained them! Explaining anything to the 'knuckle draggers' at the DVLA is a mostly pointless exercise generally 'Computer say's No!' And, just out of interest, how much of that bike ^^^ is actually OEM stock - I don't care, just curious?

Apparently - 1170cc / 75mm bore with stock liners. Or 1260cc / 78mm bore with different liners in a stock block - any larger has to go Gorilla style block + liners, then the sky's the limit! Anything with a OEM block should be ok with some extra oil cooling for street use - maybe not city use though! A few people have used Gorilla blocks on street bikes in the UK without drama's but these tend to be WELL cared for bikes, not a daily beater!

You haven't mentioned whether the fibres are OEM or aftermarket . . . . . general advise is OEM even for extreme use's! You say the plates are fine but are they in spec for thickness?? Other thing to check is notching of basket and hub - will cause symptoms described also a dry or frayed clutch cable won't help! If it was working and has got worse over time its liable to be wear / oil related, if its suddenly changed then something has broken or failed and if symptoms have changed after work then its something in the assembly that is different.

The DVLA have tightened up the regulations severely in the past 5-10 years to stop the 'grandfather' rights of swapping / moving a chassis number from old to new. This is still permissible (I believe) if the new frame is essentially a reproduction / replica of the original ie. copy a GSX crap steel frame in chrome moly - same loops, angles etc. so std. mechanicals fit using std. fixings. In the classic car world, reproduction shells for Mini's, MGB's and Escorts are being produced 'aftermarket' no different as when 'service shells' were available from the original manufacturer - these can retain their original registration mark. A Spondon / Harris / Moto Martin / Martek etc. frame doesn't qualify - they are not exact replica's and so have to go through the MSVA test - requirements are available online - and if passed, you WILL be issued a 'Q' plate!

There's clever - when the missus gets home and finds a cylinder head in the dish washer, you can legitimately blame the child LOL!

Personally for main coolers, I've always gone for -10 lines if only for less restriction / better flow rate. Yes they'll get hot in traffic - answer is - don't sit in traffic LOL! I had a 300mm wide. 19 row on my Kawazuki that kept up most of the time sufficiently that over heating never worried me. And my 'big' engine just has a std. 'M' curved rad under the seat with an R6 fan added, which seemed to do ok, although as a 'road bike' it was never flat out for long. If I was worried, I think a top end / head cooler might be more of a benefit and I'd use -8 hose with that !

Not a fuckin' hope in hell ! GS engines are about 4" / 100mm bigger in every direction that matters! Now a teenie tiny watercooled modern GSXR1000 could be a hoot!

Spawn of Satan those bloody things ! ! ! With that snapped off in there there's two 'easy' options (well 3 but last isn't a good one) 1. Spark erosion 2. Weld a nut onto the stub or 3. Bin the head and buy another !

Do people not know about Google? . . . . . . https://www.ripplerockracers.com/product/suzuki-oil-cooler-adapter-fits-gs550-650-750-1000-1100/

Should go into gear if engine off - if so, leave engine off and rock the bike back and forth with clutch pulled in and bump it off the clutch - it should free off without going internal! NOTE : BUMP as in the clutch - not BUMP as in bump starting it ! ! !

And I believe more critically - the bore spacing and consequently the cylinder stud spacing is all to cock also!