Gixer1460

Without the chain being tensioned, there is the easy possibility of the chain skipping a tooth - as seems to have happened here!

Not Ward they don't - those are Vortex ! Can't say one thing and mean another when trying to diagnose problems!

The OP did say they were blocked internally - a grub screw in lieu of the jet is the usual method. Yes oil would 'leak' away from the cams via original holes and stud holes but once full they would be pressurised as normal. I do believe the dash 3 hose has a lot to answer for! Its tiny ID won't help - i'd rather use dash 5 or even 6 if PTFE and let the cam bearings form the restriction creating pressure?

Word of caution if you are relying on a repeatable or stable 14psi - external actuators and internal WG's are notorious for overshooting / spiking over required boost figures.

Marks / standards are no longer required to be on exhausts - Acceptable noise is at testers discretion!

As you say, carbs are from a GSXR and their inlet rubbers canted the carbs over a bit so that the bowls were roughly level with road. A leaky / non sealing float valve is the likely cause for the leak as said. As an experiment, try turning all the GSX rubbers 180 degrees as this may get carb angle a bit nearer where they should be?

Start at 120 but you'll probably go smaller - Smaller dia carb means increased air speed through it, so increased airspeed through the venturi means lower pressure = better draw on the jet = it'll be richer than if carb was a 36mm with a 120.

No reason not to use 34's - remember these recommendations are based on racing applications where outright performance is key! If the rubbers are new then they should accommodate some 36's but be prepared for skinned knuckles and use of ratchet straps ! The 34's may make for a better road bike ie good torque and mid range with a little loss at top end which is rarely used anyway!

Not usual, but not unheard of, is debris getting trapped in the pressure relief valve in the sump causing it to stick open. Cold oil gives reasonable pressure but with hotter, more liquid oil, the pressure crashes! I don't think the sump will pull off in frame? so engine out and may be a good idea to check the bottom end shells at same time? Can't think of any other causes if cam feed is off main gallery?

I think you'll be surprised how stiff the shock / spring has to be! I've seen bikes so stiff that they hardly moved doing the seat bump test but on launch, they squatted so much that the tyre rubbed and the chain looked like it had 10 extra links in the lower run! Just think, Brock Davidson was the first guy in the 7's on a 'streetbike' in the 90's, so he has shedloads of experience and by his own admission, it took a year of making hits to get the shock right - that's maybe 5 - 10 passes / day, 3 or 4 times a week ! ! ! Its a long arduous task, so get the engine and clutch how you want them first, then don't touch them as changes there will affect how the bike launches - if you need to concentrate on the shock, you need repeatability from everything else - just IMHO!

Did it cost 12k per kit or 12k total for 10? If the latter, 7.5k is a bloody nice mark-up! But if the former, he shouldn't be in business as if he paid 12k they should be retailing at 17-18k so he's effectively losing 10+k LOL!

Which is the problem as he doesn't, afaik, own the rights to do so !

Forget using std. OEM shocks if it is a 'single purpose bike' A dragbike shock needs a stiffer spring, a decent amount of compression damping and loads of rebound damping . . . . . . the last requirement is where all OEM shocks fail! Just phone Hagon - tell them what you have, what application, weights and arm length etc. and they'll build you a shock that will be 80 - 90% spot on!

And for future reference / info, they are usually referred to as 'cam caps' - at first I thought you were talking about the cam cover LOL!

Ooooh - this may cause a bit of a stink as I know who got the rights to the 'Martek' name / brand when it folded 1st time around ! ! !

Also just noticed this - why ? ? ? It's too thick and not recommended for these engines! More worrying is I can't find a listing anywhere for a Ward kit made for a GSXR!

If you've blocked the oil jets up the studs where are you sourcing hi pressure oil to feed the cams and cam bearings from?

Please explain what you've done exactly as what you've said doesn't make sense - assuming this is a GSXR and not a GS / GSX!

Bit of a broad, all encompassing statement considering you are 'only' shooting for 250hp ! ! ! 'TD04', is only a family name for many variants and like most turbo's, the turbine & compressor sides can be changed and varied to produce a myriad of outputs and responses! I'm sure there are 'TD04's' that have produced in excess of 300hp - maybe not in ideal conditions but proves that one should not to be so dismissive - hell, an old T3 Garrett can be pushed to 250hp easy enough!

Don't apologise - some obviously don't. Assumption is the mother of all fuck-up's!

At last someone has stated the obvious ! ! ! With a 3 & 4 spark problem it can't be coils! It can be leads / plug caps or plugs. This of course assuming the OP isn't trying to run 1 & 2 off one coil and 3 & 4 off the other DOH!

General wisdom for idle settings is, if screws are more than a turn to a turn & a quarter out from stock then a upsize on the idle jet is needed - yours still seems to be within the acceptable range. Garage tuning is ok up to a point, the engine really needs some load put on it to really see what its doing / needs - so its road time or dyno time!

Here in UK the Subtitles are in Russian as well, so not much help LOL!

As Dyna coils have many years use across thousands of installations, many used in excess of 13-14k+ rpm's, high CR, Turbo and Nitrous equipped engines without problem, it possibly points to a problem with your particular Mini coils (i've never used them personally as I prefer the 'old chunkies LOL!) Any coil set up working correctly will support extreme installations - a good spark delivered at the correct time will be the same as any other, so it would be virtually impossible to 'improve' on that unless the system was substandard. Guessing here maybe whatever you are using to drive the coils can't charge them adequately so its not a coil problem at all?

Fit a couple of complete valve assemblies ie. std spring seat, valve, springs, spring retainer and collets + additional 0.06" shim under the std. spring seat. Then measure the height of the spring between the spring seat and underside of the spring retainer - this is the 'installed height' - lets say its 2" or 50mm! Disassemble and grab a spring tester, clamp the spring to be tested on the tester and compress to the installed height ie 2" or 50mm and read off poundage achieved! Most people don't bother unless its a high value / high rpm racing engine as to be truly accurate the spring seats in the head should be all milled to the same height before measuring the installed heights, then measure the spring pressures, then adjust the added 0.060" shim thickness to add or subtract spring pressure. As said a complete faff done 16 times ! ! !