Gixer1460

You are unlikely to get much of a response here - its simply not our thing and the fact that scooters rank even lower than Bandits as desirable, speaks volumes. In the UK you could find most of these (and there like) stolen and dumped in canals. Having a 'Japanese' frame number isn't surprising as they were made, strangely enough, in Japan!

That makes sense as i've wondered what they were made from - deffo lighter than stock steel needles but waaaay harder than a 'hard' aluminium! Oddly I've never had the tube wear like others experienced - the needles wore a virtual flat between idle and mid range - probably where it spent 75% of its time. Shame I didn't know about DJ's needle exchange and the carbs got scrapped for parts !

Its pretty difficult to starve an oil boiler of oil pressure whatever you do - the pump pressure and volume is about twice what engine requires, so most gets bled off and returned to sump (maybe why oil overheating can occur?) via the pressure relief valves. IF you use a big block that cuts the std oil gallery you MUST supply pressurised oil to BOTH ends of the head and ideally from BOTH ends of the main gallery (not easy to achieve!) Only other reason for external lines is to minimise oil heating via the stud hole risers - if that is an issue, then a bigger cooler would be a better idea to lower the overall engine temp. IMO.

I'm gonna get burned for this but . . . . . . . just park the Dino and buy a Watercooled Commuter bike that won't complain, handle the traffic and it saves the 1150 for spirited weekend enjoyment! Or move somewhere else LOL!

If you were clever with a lathe and TIG, its not beyond the realms of possibility to add in some injector bungs to a set of carbs, lose the slide, needle and all the other bollux, block up the redundant holes and voila - retro style efi TB's

Only kill power to the coils - DO NOT kill the ignition, ONLY THE COILS ! ! !

They usually aren't a 'one size fits everything' deal - you have to come up with a mounting solution! But unless you choose the 'super' wide type, most of the 'regular' width coolers will fit within a fairing as they are somewhat more narrow than stock types!

If its a sudden occurance - i'd look at mechanical things - throttle cable fraying is a good one or carb linkages binding somewhere?

If you use ESSO Synergy Supreme 99 . . . . . .

Normal'ish wear & tear - when its a Christmas tree, that's when you get worried!

Don't know its purpose but as its machined steel plate and not just stamped aluminium, it must serve some structural purpose!

Its an oil cooler off a water cooled bike! That is actually a neat solution if you are keeping the fairing and if the fittings are freely available?

I know you know I was pointing out, for our less well informed members, that power shouldn't always the determinant factor in fitting something.

Logical explanation - I forgot the oil switch on these works as a relief valve ie. lifting on pressure about 1 psi LOL! So cooler will get pressurised oil @ whatever pressure the engine makes but can't imagine flow will be much via the switch !

Straight cut gears aren't necessarily 'stronger' but they minimise side pressure on the clutch basket - helical gears are stronger as they have more teeth contacting at any one point, run quieter but do induce side loading, they also absorb more power - only fractional due to forgoing points but its there!

Its a big 'IF' ! Its a new build with 70kms total running & its unclear as to new / used bottom end, set-up status of the carbs / ignition and whether the package was ragged around or ridden sensibly? Its the detonation that you don't hear that kills engines and most of the time you won't! 'Bigger' cooler doesn't automatically mean larger frontal area - depth or thickness needs to be considered, as this allows longer contact time so transferring more heat. They will be equally 'draggy' for airflow but thicker may be easier to package within bodywork!

From your Bio - you aren't exactly in the coolest part of the world are you ! ! ! You are sailing very close to the edge using a skimmed DOT head (i'm guessing static CR may be about 11.5+ : 1 or more) and I'm unsure of the quality of your petrol as it would be advisable (in the UK at least) to be using 98 / 99 RON fuel. But back to cooling - a head cooler is pretty much a requirement with that climate & engine spec IMO and / or a bigger / more efficient main cooler wouldn't hurt either!

There's yer problem ! ^^^ in Red. CV carbs just do not get on with separate air filters without LOADS of work! If an aftermarket jetting kit is available - DJ or Factory - it may cure it or go back to std. airbox!

Different oil capacities due to different sumps - nothing else!

You'll have to use Bandit wheels with the gsxr cams otherwise should swap ok

Isn't it an EFE pressure switch plate with the oil temp sensor removed? I'm not that up on GSX oil systems but isn't the space behind the filter cover full of unfiltered oil? If so, that set-up is dumping unfiltered oil into the main gallery?

New parts are a lottery regarding availability - s/hand stuff can be had but again a lottery pending the sellers description for 'as new', 'barely used or 'absolutely bollux'd'

Re : The engine, if its been stored 'closed up' ie. plugs in and all orifices plugged it should be as good as the day it was stored! If not then moisture will have gotten in and the rust monster will likely cover any steel not thickly coated in old oil. Popping any of the covers will give a good idea of internal state!

Raises more questions! Requires short reach plugs? If not, then exposed plug threads carbon up and muller the head threads coming out! Lowers compression! And 'kernel' type combustion chambers never seem to help overall combustion from what i've read. Maybe they were just grinding / polishing out some cracks LOL!

Seems a bit harsh but if those are the rules! For me, Endurance should be about finishing and doing whatever it takes to finish - providing safety isn't compromised! Some points is a lot better than no points or do you have a 'discard results x times' rule as well? Bike endurance isn't something I particularly follow - I tend towards Sports Cars hence the question.