Gixer1460

This is for VM type carbs and the return spring is internal over the slide and under the cap ! No RS carb has springs nearly 4 or 4+" long ! Looking at the RS36 data sheet - https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/carb-kit/rs36-d3-k-data-set/ - there are no alternative closing springs! Just different posts that spring mounts on.

I think the OP knows all that - what he's asking is if a particular adaptor is available to mount the wheel to the crank! And the answer is 'maybe if you search long enough! Most people will just use a large steel washer with a dowel to reduce its hole down to M8 size and a penny washer outside the plate to clamp it - cheap and it works!

Don't do it! Something is wrong with your set-up if you've killed rings on a MTC piston - they are pretty bullet proof but nothing is immune from detonation! Not sure how you are achieving 8.8:1 CR with flat top pistons as MTC usually sell them as achieving 10:1 CR! MTC Turbo pistons have bowls machined in factory & are rated at 8:1. The squish band does two things - 1st - forces the mixture away from the cylinder walls into the centre of chamber to minimise chances of detonation and 2nd - provides strength with material placement of the rings. IMO, a reduced squish would be completely the wrong way to go and would likely exacerbate the problem. Stating the obvious (if I understand what you are planning to do) you can't substitute a 78mm piston for a 81mm dia. one, no matter how you machine it!

TG - you are overplaying what the Colourtune is capable of! They are really only of any use at idle and to correct adjustible idle AF mixtures as this is an area where the engine isn't under any load. To correct any other range, the engine should be under load - either on the road or a dyno - and trying to read a Colourtune out on the road could be pretty dangerous LOL!, and if you are on a dyno, it should be equiped with AFR monitoring making the Colourtune surplus to requirements. Don't get me wrong, CT's are great devices for an annual garage check / tune up of idle running, just like a set of vacuum guages, just not loaded / under power tuning!

Was indeed - and it was quick !

Because they have such low resistance ie. usually 1.5 ohm or below, if you use them in series, you add the resistances together so 2x 1.5 ohm = 3 ohm and about equal to a normal twin tower coil, but each stick will be receiving about 6-7v each. If wired in parallel, the sticks will get 12-14v each but circuit resistance is halved, which poses problems for std. ignitors or rather their power transistors. With 3.0 ohm resistance and 12v the transistors are handling about 4amps (12v / 3r = 4a) but changing that to (in parallel) you get 12v / 0.75r = 16a - so 4x the power which will burn them out. A std OEM ignitor is usually max'd out if using 2.2 ohm Dyna coils. This is about the limit of my basic electronics theory understanding so an adult may rectify if i'm wrong LOL!

Most bikes will run, start and stop without any instrument's whatsoever - so you can do whatever floats your boat. BUT finding instruments that are supported by 'old analogue' wiring and sensors may need some thinking about but not insurmountable!

What are you having problems understanding, as I've already admitted to fucking up with the first paragraph? The second is a simple concept or can't you grasp that either?

I'll state the obvious - a 140/80 X 18 won't work where once a 130/90 X 17 was fitted !

But most are using management for accurate fueling and timing, both go a way to avoid detonation.

LOL's - Only took a week! Anyway no part #'s as such - see photo. Interestingly it appears that the electronics may not be 'potted' as the case looks like it would come apart with some effort - I'm not going to as clumsy tools and 30yr old electronics don't mix !

No - contradiction is fine, when as in this case you are correct! Yes brain fart time, of course front sprocket is proportional to rear wheel speed DOH! The high / low rotational speed is the real issue having a drive off of it. As said a 'normal' front wheel speedo drive would work if on the back wheel axle.

Front sprocket won't work as a) it continually changes speed as you change gears and b) its geared lower than road wheel so would always read low anyway! BUT a speedo drive on the rear axle would work as (unless spinning) the wheel is always at road speed - can't be anything but!

Some peeps will be agast using the oil port on the side of the head as this is from the low pressure cooler circuit - my big engine uses this with no drama's so far but other than that I can't comment on longevity! As i'm using the below the barrel main gallery for the turbo supply, I don't really want to draw more oil away from that and the crank & rod bearings.

Set the cams for adjustment by the slots in the ends of the cams. Read manual for info! If no hexagon, bump it over on the starter or rear wheel in gear!

I have to go out to garage tomorrow (wednesday) so will find it then. But parts fiche says same # as 'M' part number : 329 0040C00

Supressed = (possibly) restricted, for those countries that required lower max power. I have one for a K/L that I took off when swapped to a Dyna 2000 ? Not a restricted one UK had full power!

The manual is correct and yes they are waaaaay different to CV's, a totally different type of carb so settings don't translate!

I just read it all - Hmmmm - Snake Oil is my thinking! What don't they coat / use it on . . . . . . nothing seemingly! For example they suggest coating valve springs for longevity - but drag race springs don't get hot enough for long enough to affect their strength, they loose tension through use and generally get changed routinely every few events to prevent actual breakage.

Buggered if I'm going to read that lot on my phone! LOL

How do you actually shed heat if not through head and pistons? Small % through cylinder walls via rings and convection but guessing most via exhaust valves which will get REAL toasty! I know F1 engines are using this technology to exceed 50% thermal efficiency but they ain't exactly cheap, budget builds LOL!

You have a fully equipped maching shop? - Make something to suit? You have patterns to measure and modify and tree's aren't the most complex of shapes!

That is clearly an electrical problem LOL!

And what happens if the welding causes them to move? Does his price include re-cutting all the seats as if they move, that's what will be required! Why give the engine big lungs and ask it to breathe through straws?

Lots of Funny and ProMod bikes making more than 500hp and still using 1150 cases, 1100 cases and in some instances Zed cases!