Gixer1460

More than a Screwfix compressor is liable to achieve! LOL Needs Nitrogen (its dry - compressed air contains water = rust) I think 250psi would be a place to start!

I do for the gas one - just don't ask me where exactly!.................... Just had a look and its not where I thought it might be!

why's the lambda guage freaking out like that?

I know mate - just yanking yer chain! Thought you'd have grown out of the BB or are you in the 'Glamping' bit? LOL Yeah its one of Trev's -'kin brilliant with NOS pressure behind it but his redneck electronics crapped out and after 3 attempts to repair it I gave up on him and his products - nowt wrong with his soli's but the rest you can shove! Anyway it works just as well with 140psi air - love recycling! The Kwak may be going to a new home shortly on HP - watch this space ...............as I need some in the cave!

That doesn't make any sense - firstly GSXR cranks don't need welding - that is unless you are doing the journals to regrind and stroke them. Secondly I know of plenty GSXR cranks that run 180+hp NA that have 100+hp of gas throw in for good measure.......'they' don't break that easily - the other bits do! You couldn't press together a plain bearing crank - you'd never achieve acceptable journal parallism without regrinding, GSX's have rather 'sloppy' main roller bearings that accept that tolerance of build.

C'mon Clive that's a bit of a lash up compared to the rest of the build - clean straight lines is what you need! Guess what warms the NOS bottle!

That's true - couldn't get a 5mm stroke increase from even a std. fresh cast crank + would probably be too weak even if possible so builder pony'd up for a billet one off. That was about £1800 12 years ago but it was done manually on lathe and mill so the man hours racked up - done now, on a CNC machining centre, I guess the cost could be less. Personally if I was doing anything out of the ordinary and needed a one off crank, i'd make it a flat plane design with the big ends all equally spaced and 90 degrees apart - that'd make an awesome engine, perfect primary balance and rev happy!

Not doubting your engineering skill but surely a spline and matching spigot is going to be tricky to clock up and keep the crank throws all at 90 / 180 degrees to each other and include a sprocket? I'd suspect a interference fit pin and socket pressed together a la GSX type will allow a bit of 'mallet' adjustment prior to welding?

Don't want to sound like an angry lawyer but whilst building your own frame is to be admired (providing your engineering, materials and welding are top notch) but 'dimensionally ripping off' a commercially produced item technically infringes makers copyright. The whole point of a self produced frame is its your creation and doesn't rely on critical dimensions from someone elses! These things are created in a jig - you place the engine, configure where the headstock needs to be with proposed forks and wheel and where swingarm pivot needs to be using whatever s/arm and wheel - then glue it all together with whatever collection of tubes you choose. Just saying is all!

That's amusing - flowing more oil to parts that are not relieved to cope will increase oil pressure in the galleries - it won't make diddly squat difference to actual bearing oil pressure! If you are opening up bearing running clearances then i'd agree that increased flow would be beneficial to get back to std. running pressures but conversely loose clearances are not really to be advised - race or not. So it is 'solving' a problem that doesn't exist. I'm sure Suzuki never modified their oil systems in the factory racebikes other than additional cooling.......that says a lot IMO! Why would you need 120psi oil pressure at idle - there is little or no load on anything! Saying that he's never spun a rod bearing isn't really convincing - i've never spun one either in any of my stock oil pumped / pressured engines, one of which runs 2 bar boost and 370hp!

Most GSXR / oiler engines make excess pressure and have to bleed it off back to sump.....so why increase it? They usually only break when something mechanical goes wrong and it ain't normally the delivery side!

Why a 'longer' arm? Thats gonna lift the clutch less - make it grabby?

Sods law being what it is and if the oilers are anything like the aircooled motors, the primary gear ratios are different between 750 and 1100. So whatever you choose you'd need the matching basket!

As said above - Robinsons Foundary - most of the stuff is here?..... http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/content/pages/shop/parts/Suzuki/GSX/GSX1100F/FJ-FR 1988-1994/gsx1100ftrans.htm

Lots been written about this over previous two forums.......personally I wouldn't! 6 gears in the same space as 5 physically means they are thinner and therefore will carry greater load per tooth power being equal between 750 and 1100 But the torque of the 1100 means it doesn't NEED 6 gears. So, add greater twisting force / torque on gears that are physically smaller and they are likely to fail. Some say they are fine but could you trust something that is now getting on for 35+ years old? 2nd gears in Suzi boxes are notorious for wearing the dogs - starts with a whine then jumps out ...... as its coupled with 5th you might have 4 gears to replace!

Clive - your brave with that 'ickle little cooler! At least you can throw my old motor at it and the pipes will still fit and throw alcohol at it - would be a hoot! LOL I'm like the look though. Ian

This is the graph from my Kawazuki - 1186, 36mm CV's, pods and a 4-2-1 one off pipe = 144hp on three different dyno's

1460 Gixer M fully 'built' engine with turbo, intercooler and EFI and no the gearbox is fine thank you very much!

I suppose my 369hp is enough - measured on Big CC dyno @ HP Shootout so no dyno printout!