Gixer1460

Yes those are deffo rich unless you've been 'driving like Miss Daisy'! What are the engine specs - any work done, carb mods?

Not a bad price @ £500 considering there's a set of pistons in bored to suit barrel's - not sure I'd go as far as £750 though!

Looks strong enough, it just don't look too pretty or professional

It is ......................the name 'Woody' on the fairing lower sort of gives it away! Not sure if the re-incarnation has the same motor in it as it destroyed a few.

All 1127 chains are the same - 1157 Blandits have a Hyvo design chain so completely different.

12mm Plug socket shown refers to the thread size M12 Fine ..... Actual socket required is 18mm AF as you use. Most 12mm spark plug sockets / 1/2" drive are thin enough for Bandits / GSXR's ............but your buggered when it comes to H**nda's! LOL!

Not for a Bandit in that state of tune. Personally i'd throw a DJ or Factory jet kit at it - mid range tuning is a PITA generally!

You could get oversize Suzuki pistons for about the same money as Aftermarket - available at 0.25 / 0.50mm oversize and for a road bike might be a sensible option for reliability IMO. And unless big power is likely a basket upgrade is a bit OTT and a chunk of money to do - if the original is badly worn / notchy then its an easier choice.

Arttu - I agree with the statement but subject to the plumbing. Example -take a tap, turn it off and it has zero flow and zero pressure at the outlet but substantial pressure and zero flow before the valve. Turn it on a little and pressure reduces and flow increases before the restriction but at the outlet flow increases but has zero pressure - it has a degree of force due to kinetics but no pressure. Open tap more and the effect increases but there is no more pressure at the outlet and it can only be generated before a restriction. A float valve only sees pressure when it is closed and not flowing anything? Reinhoud - EFI in a car / bike uses a regulator to choke down the flow to give 3 bar over the injectors - excess pressure is bled off by flow back to the tank that has zero pressure (atmospheric) A carburettor needs (usually) no more than 0.1 bar fuel pressure or the float valve will leak and a carb placed in the same relationship as an injector would be subject to flooding initially / often as the regulator is trying to build 0.1 bar pressure on a line that is effectively leaking ie. into the carb and only when bowl is full and float valve shuts can line pressure of 0.1 bar be maintained? But the pump is putting out flow - flat out - which is mostly returned back to the tank but as with the tape example above the big flow has force that may overwhelm the float. The other option is a dead head system where the pump output flows against a regulator that only allows sufficient fluid past not to overwhelm the float valve. The pump will be producing way in excess of 3-5 bar fuel pressure at idle rpms which unless effectively bled off by return to tank overheats the fuel. A Rising Rate Regulator is NOT a Boost Referenced Regulator and they shouldn't be confused. The former will multiply the fuel delivery pressure by a fixed % ie 1lb boost fuel pressure increases by 3% so 43 psi becomes 44.29, add another lb of boost and it adds another 3% so 44.29 becomes 45.62 psi etc etc. Whereas a Boost referenced regulator will only add 1 psi for every 1lb of boost. This effectively means the carb jets or the injectors 'see' exactly the same pressure over them whatever the boost is - whereas with a RR reg the pressure at the jet / injector is higher than boost making the overall delivery richer and richer whether it is required or not! It may work if you can't adjust the map for limited boost increases but with 10lbs of boost you could be getting 65psi FP when you'd only need 50psi - remember compressing anything generates heat so personally i'd keep the pressure down and re-map the injector opening time up.........with a carb you'd be buggered IMO!

What don't you understand? Most fuel pumps these days are sourced from EFI systems. The rated flows are generally at 3bar pressure and will be constant, what isn't used (@ 3bar pressure) will be bypassed back to the tank. If you drop the pressure to carb acceptable levels, the flow will drop accordingly. Other than that, what else needs explaining?

Always wary about specifying EFI fuel pumps for use with carbs. EFI pressure is relatively constant over the injectors, flow is largely unimportant as it is usually in excess but choking down an efi pump a) over heats the fuel and b) reduces its flow - to carb float valve tolerable levels, so requiring an oversize tank return line. RR Regs are spawn of satan IMO - may be ok for a mildly hopped up NA situation but never good with a turbo and certainly not with turbo and carbs! Carbs need to have low pressure, high flow supply that will track boost exactly to remain constant - increasing FP exponentially with no regard to boost requirement leads to blown engines - seen it with Busa's done on the cheap. Different pipe route - I like it, neat and tucked in. Stainless? won't shed heat easily so air could get a bit toasty!

Added to the conversation.

Fair enough - couldn't see header in the photos!

5mm total up to down is about right. Personally i've ever only tensioned a manual tensioner using finger torque - screw in the centre till you feel the tensioner resistance and then about another 1/4 turn fingers only and lock off. Wind the motor over forwards and check again as there should be a little slack. Difficult to explain but works for me.

Trikes still need forks! What about adapting some MX forks - plenty length there.....and strong!

But you've got a 90 bend on there into a fabricated 180 bend ! If you'd loosened the compressor housing and rotated it back 30 odd degrees the outlet would have only needed a 45 degree link pipe into the cooler bottom? Straight was the wrong word - direct - would have been better.

I realise you are doing the fabbing but if you have a boost pipe from cooler to plenum on the left - it could have been routed on the right to achieve the diagonal flow split. Also I like simplicity so why the ugly lower pipe connection from the turbo - straight in the bottom is nice and direct and an angle plate in the end tank could have pushed the air across the core? This isn't a criticism just points for mk2 version LOL!

Which is why they've sort of fallen out of favour with the 'faster' boys - scavenged dry sump systems are more reliable and allow the bike to be lowered more. Having seen a few of the swinging arms - they are difficult to engineer, retaining the friction free movement and keeping air tight for suction - fried clutch does them in a treat!

The advantage using brass or copper nuts with stainless or steel studs is they don't gall and can't be over-tightened but I have used normal stainless with coppaslip to avoid seizure equally successfully.

I doubt it, as why would you have a hose clamp end, if it screwed into a rail? The thread is std. metric and clamps the reg to a bracket where ever you want it.

Yes but the CDI's also have different plugs / wiring so can't just plug one to the other! Thought the pick-ups were virtually the same only rotor different?

Different CDI and Ignition switch.

Not a fan! Lot of pipe will lose heat energy = less to spin turbo. Look like std. dia. pipe? Smaller than usual helps gas speed. You asked! LOL

I would have thought a couple of tacks back and front would suffice - its the friction fit that stops it going anywhere. A cold chisel would break the tacks if ever needed?

Garrett GT2560R will do a bit more than that but less boost = cooler charge!