Gixer1460

2.2 ohm coils not recommended with std ecu. Std coils and green dynas draw (12.6v / 3.0 ohms =) 4.2 amps. If you use 2.2's the calc is (12.6v / 2.2 ohms =) 5.73 amps. This could be stressing the output transistors so a misfire is a possibility.

Ah so completely different to the GSXR then - bloody OEM changing stuff!

Over-rev a bike with shims and you'll find out! Buzz the motor = valve float = shims pop out / jam = piston and valve party!

That's what it was designed for so never changed. Nice off throttle and still gives 180+hp NA.

Why have a 600rpm range? I'd say 900 was about as low as you need and even use that with a kick up in the ign. table for 'anti-stall'? Need some more range at the top end as even with a turbo you can hit the limiter and you'll need fuel there!

They came from Cosworth and I think final CR was between 9.5 and 9:1. I don't think they were widely available, wink wink, say no more, know wot I mean!

Your right - you're not........I did! LOL And with 85mm pistons + a 5mm stroke as well LOL!

Std sleeves - not for Big Blocks - i'm guessing these are 84-86mm bore stylee?

Nope! One should be Red fairly H/Duty 20A cable, the other should be Orange, again fairly HD. Red to battery +, Orange to Ign. sw. from memory.

That rings a bell - pretty sure I had a G4/G8 combo and std springs in a early 1100 engine - didn't last long as probably bound springs locked the rockers and that took the cams out - looked like a war zone when the cover came off and the cams were somewhat flatter LOL!

That's what you may believe but valve durability is usually down to steel alloy used or construction - more silicon or chromium will improve heat resistance or two part valve with stainless 21-2N or 21-4N head on a non stainless stem usually fares better. No treatments, no hardening, just alloy selection, casting, machining, quenching, tempering and grinding goes to make a valve.

Damn Clive - it says it in your sig. line ! Alarm clock in the post! LOL!

Before I saw your post above I was about to say that the gap width to tooth width looks to narrow - usually most gaps should be wider and deeper than the tooth is wide. But as its now working, I guess its not critical here!

I guess with such large gaps between teeth corresponding with piston accelerations / decelerations through the cycle and there being little 'count down' potential, timing variation is reasonable - Good research though. I remember my install was somewhat 'lumpy' until some revs were gained.

Yes - they'd be the same. Your choice but why bolt a crash bung to part of the engine that is fairly easily damaged! Rip one of those puppies out and its a new head! Crash bars on chassis far safer idea IMO!

Well happy to say I was wrong! A 4-1 will work - obviously! Re : physically moving the timing wheel position - can this not be achieved in software? ie. set cranking rpm (sub 400 rpm) timing down around 0 degrees or even ATDC?

Don't see why not - i've got aftermarket new cams ground for my 1460 'M' - done by Kroll in the States!

Just don't see how a 2 tooth wheel would work on a 4 cyl! You'd get 2 spark trigger events every crank rotation and with two, dual ended coils every cylinder would get a spark but couldn't the spark occur in the wrong cylinder at the wrong time? It may work with a single dual ended coil fired twice as often but still not convinced!

Just read your post closer - you can't have a 4-1 wheel! The smallest number of teeth must be equally divisible by cylinder number! Hence I used a stock wheel and reduced the big tooth to a small tooth to get a 4-0 wheel which had to have the cam sync even running wasted spark. The cam pick-up was easy - drill the cam for a M6 screw, drill hole in cam cover over the screw and add a plate holding a Hall effect sensor. As long as the screw is within 1mm of sensor it works fine. I may get round to re-doing my crank wheel - maybe not 36-1 but 24-1 or even 12-1 if only to improve starting response which suffers with only 4 teeth!

It can work as that's the set up I used on mine although I used a Motec and it has a cam sensor to sync the timing. I think without the ign won't know where it is and what pair of plugs need to be fired. With the Cam sync the ecu knows where #1 is and will fire the coil on the next crank tooth it sees. The Motec is pretty well adjustable for any triggering set-up considering its age - its operating system is DOS based so its not a new kid! Suzuki obviously use the wide tooth as a precursor to actual trigger point for a particular coil knowing that a short tooth 180 degrees later will be the other coil. With the cam sync I can have full sequential fuel and sparks.

Summat wrong with it - you haven't got massive power (I mean it ain't excessive!) so std springs with a 10mm screw and nyloc on each arm should lock it solid ........that holds 350+hp in mine. Oil issues would top my list before spending out on plates?

Or steam engines? LOL!

Yeah I think you are missing something - the hybrid motor isn't a common conversion and so isn't called 7/11 frequently. The 1100 engine swop into the 750 frame is the common definition used widely. Now put it into a 750 frame and does it become a 7/7/11 LOL!

If it had dropped a valve it'll run like crap and deffo won't run on 4. Big ends or main bearings possibly? If they've had it then symptomatic of bad oil pressure some time and cams may be fubar'd as well? Until you strip some down you won't know if you need special tools - normal spring compressor usually ok.

Old Brit bikes run on coal - things have moved on since steam power was popular!