Gixer1460

Now that does look hideous!

Wouldn't worry too much about oil pressure - these engines generate sooooo much that approx a third is bled off straight away. Pressure drop is usually fast enough not to spot by which time the shells are toast anyway.

Surprised your ignition is still functional! Dyna Orange coils are 1.5 ohm each so they are wired in series i'm guessing - lower volts but 3.0 ohm total resistance?

Problem with K&N's or similar filters is non compatibility with Ram pipes - the foamies are about the only thing that will stretch over!

Most stock cooler brackets have rubber somewhere in their construction, as said its there for a reason - solid mounts = split coolers!

Personally - if the bike is running how you want and you are happy with it - DON'T FIDDLE WITH IT! Certainly don't fit a free flow filter to try and cure a minor cough / flat spot and then ruin it everywhere else! It may only need the needle dropping or raising one notch or 1/2 a notch even.

They'd be in the ice so no effect - if there was ice, the bowls would have split first.

Unlikely to make any difference! If its a single cylinder problem it rules out 'shared' components like coils and ign. electronics. I would look at spark plug, plug lead and cap then a carb blockage. First check is swop 2 and 3 plug leads around - if misfire moves then confirms leads problem. Then swop low tension side wires from 1/4 to 2/3 and vice versa (with plug leads in correct places) - if it moves then it could be coil or the ecu. If you have the old coils, swop back and if the problem persists then it does look like the big money items, if not then dicky coil!

Its horses for courses! A turbo has relatively long, gentle spool with a big rush - ideal for road use. Racing turbo's requires being an animal on the throttle to build boost before launch or race is over before turbo spools. Simple nitrous is an instant whack - press button and power goes from whatever to whatever + 60hp virtually instantly - nitrous on a dyno is a larf as it'll shock the wheel into wheelspin. Racing nitrous is still a hit - even the progressives as you maybe starting with only 25% and ramping to 100% in 2 seconds but that could be 60hp upto 240hp increase in 2 seconds - its a rush! Turbo's are acknowledged as being 'softer' on an engine but over an 1/8th mile very little will beat a sorted nitrous bike.

And PLEASE don't ask 'that' question!

Thats a wierd one!! Can't even imagine how they got split? Don't think they are removable as not a service item! As a temporary check / fix how about sealing the cracks with epoxy then see if adjustment is easier / has more effect?

Yeah - slipped cam timing won't have helped! I had a engine with cam one tooth out, with a turbo and we couldn't work out why it wouldn't make more than stock - surprising the difference 1 tooth makes - 125hp one day - 200+ the next! Not doubting your abilities but those screws just 'don't come loose' if done right and with the correct goo. You also mentioned other bolts / screws coming loose on the dyno. I think your torque wrench needs checking / throwing away. I've mostly only ever used my 'wrist torque wrench' and things usually stay where they were till the next time.

What type of turbo is it again - can't be bothered to trawl through 12 pages? I think your assumption is probably correct.

True - provided that the coil earth isn't also connected internally to the body / mountings of the soli. If they were and you connected reversed you'd be connecting the switched 12v straight to ground - short / smoke / sparks!

Might add that unless it's a split type ie two pieces you be buggered as the header pipe end is usually flared to sit on gasket and the collar gets clamped via the aluminium casting - the collar not designed to come off unless the header separates into 4 and you unwrap it!

I'd just plumb it from the bottom...... cheaper straight fittings and shorter pipe as well!

F**kin excellent - haven't seen one Fubar'd that well for a few years - that underside piston picture is priceless!

'cost no problem' is a bad thing to say talking about nitrous, cause you can / will spend lots! 1. Nitrous doesn't particularly like stock cast pistons....40 - 60hp single stage hits are rolling the dice - it has no affinity for forged pistons either but they can take more abuse. Plug tips will vanish on gas - go hotter and make sure ign. system is up to it. Will make 11 - 10 second bikes. The more compression an engine has the less nitrous it can stand without problems. 2. Next level is a progressive wet system - Schnitz / NLR / WON all do kits and WON Pulsoids are reckoned to be the best for pulsed applications but Trevor is a knob to deal with! These will handle 50 - 150hp additions and need proper engine work - a nitrous is not a NA engine and more like a turbo build. 3. Next is Dry nitrous if you have a fuel injected bike. Less common but capable of serious power. Talk to Brad O'Connor at BTC Moto for installations / kits / advice. 4. Top of the tree are Superstreet / Funnybike installs - Very, Very spendy and highly tempremental. Will eat pistons for no apparent reasons, melt valves, trash cylinder heads / pistons / rods etc. The newest WON REVO systems are very controllable and IMO well worth the money - but you still have to deal with Trevor LOL! Depending on the bike and it's set-up you can go 9's with item #2 but expect to change a plug every few passes, head gaskets, valves and valve seats get nibbled maybe every couple of meetings and potentially a piston or two every year. I crewed with Kev Charman in SSB for two years with his nitrous bandit, then his Compbike (won and came 2nd in ACU, 1st and 2nd years entered) then his FunnyBike (won and came 2nd in ACU, 1st and 2nd years entered) - I didn't tune the nitrous but certainly knew what was going on - good and bad!

'Shut off' as in engine shut off or as in shut throttle? If the latter it is normal if a BOV is fitted (and it should be)...... it releases excess compressed air. If the former I've got no idea - maybe its possessed and needs to see a priest rather than a meknik LOL!

Good find - the 48mm OD does seem an oddball size in the general bearing world but common on bikes!

How fast do you want to go ie times and how much money you got? Once you establish that we can give you directions as the cat can be declothed many ways!

A smaller master cyl. dia. will produce more pressure with downside of longer lever travel - bigger cyl. will move more fluid, so harder lever but less pressure on the caliper pistons - all a balancing act and what you feel happy with!

Can't comment on ultimate stopping power but my set up uses PVM 13" discs, GSXR1000 6 pot Nissins on adapters to put the pads directly central to rotor wear surface, all using an AP master. They have'nt a 'hard lever' feel just very progressive, but I reckon their strong enough to lock at any speed if stupid enough!

Well .....as regarding restrictive or not - my turbo had a single 60mm dia. cone filter on the turbo inlet - considerably smaller than those dustbins used on race bikes - and it made 370hp without drama so I know which one I like. If you were closer you could borrow the RS40's off my bike - don't wanna get into the aggro of boxing / posting / claiming on the insurance etc. etc.!

Most people will swop from ball bearing to taper rollers - better load bearing and adjustment. Should be a straight swop?