Gixer1460

Common sense says if the 38's are working well the same jetting suite will work fairly similarly although i'd increase the main by 10 points as although the carbs will flow more air, if the engine can't draw it in, it could potentially be slower so the jet will flow less fuel. Sounds backwards but unless something has changed inside the engine requiring more fuel the extra air can't be utilised - so there's your baseline setting.

In that case i've had three personally - first was bought early 90's when they first came out - non programmable and is still going ok, last one on my 1460 and programmable type - no probs. Originals made in the US then they switched to far east manufacture and peeps having problems DOA's ....as were other electronic unit suppliers so not exclusive - less now so maybe QA has improved or they've switched back to US? If it was me, i'd use a dyna as a trigger for EFI NA. but not use it to control ignition on a turbo - the resolution isn't enough to cope with starting, idle, off boost cruise and then boost - just my thoughts!

If it was 150 at the sump you are on the edge of reliability life - ok if a full synthetic and regular changes but ideally 110 - 120 deg are optimal for mineral or semi synth. Running static just isn't good for the engine - its not under load and is heat soaking in areas not designed for it ie. head over heats while gearbox hardly heats at all!

Is this a serious question? Its probably the most popular aftermarket ignition after the Dyna S by volume sales! Unless you need the Dyna 2000 tuning features, the original ignition is perfectly adequate. Question is are you planning a full EFI or Semi EFI conversion? The former won't need the Dyna, the latter can be used for ignition and triggering the injector ECU.

I knew Arttu would have a map somewhere - & as he said above, once over the cruise area, the numbers can virtually flatline. If you are brave and have a dyno that can hold at load and rpm, you can play with the advance to optimise although most dyno's don't like doing it as a) it takes time to do and b) it really stresses the engine ie. max load for up to a minute at a time - its scary!

Depends on what size bearings it has presently - I believe there are 3No bearing sizes to allow for factory machining tolerances - if the relevent journal is undersized already and there isn't another undersize bearing to go then its either leave well alone, metal spray and re-grind or scrap it. I wouldn't try DIY crankshaft re-facing! LOL!

Strange advice from Dyna as surely 3 ohm is 3 ohm is 3 ohm whatever the package. As the green coils have been used for decades with Dyna 'S' that's the safe option but can't understand why they recommend de-rating the new coils for use with an 'S' ?

The timing seems to be sloped right across the board - I'd prefer to see bigger numbers in the 3 - 5000 / up to 100 kpa as that will improve low end and cruise off boost with a gentle tail off toward max rpm and then trim some of the on-boost figures. Will a Bandit engine go to 11000 rpm? Can you re-space the rpm load sites for a bit more resolution low down ie. 600, 1000, 1400, 1800, 2500, 3000 and up to 10500? IMO, the cranking figures ie 500 should be sub 10 deg as mine used to kick back on the starter with teens? Are you using MAP compensation or is it just this table?

I know its counter intuitive but if the pump isn't running / having pressurised delivery, then it won't be running right! Otherwise when the pump is switched on, you are back to square one!

I've a set of 41's that are for my 1460 so should be ok airflow wise LOL! A M8 tried them on his 1216 and whilst the top end was there, they were pants at 'non licence losing speeds' so i've given him some 36mm RS's which have just been set up by Sean @ Big CC and total transformation - road manners, lifts the front in 1st 3 gears on the throttle + 156hp top end = happy bunny!

FCR Side and down draught main body castings are completely different so the above doesn't work.

Why the fuck did I read GSXR and not GSX - DOH! Anyway - answer the question LOL!

Thats what I thought or Zed - certainly that era!

The downdraughts are also a different spacing so x2 not fitting

I disagree with the 1st point - pushing an incorrect master cylinder piston 1/2" or 1" won't make the clutch springs any easier to compress! To do that, the master cylinder bore requires changing....... that will mean more or less fluid transfer. Then you correct the lever ratio more or less to move sufficient fluid @ increased pressure to push on the springs, so giving a lighter feel - the clutch cover will still only move the same amount. I believe the OP set-up will require a smaller master cyl. bore to increase line pressure and a lever with a greater stroke to move the reduced fluid capacity. The lever is the hardest thing as unless its like the 'high end - multiple adjustables' like the one above, most have a fixed lever ratio to suit the 'average' rider.

They ain't like any GSXR coils that i've ever seen? Numbers ain't the worst - what about across the LT terminals? They do look fairly ancient / rough round the edges? Maybe blasphemy but get some h o n d a coils - direct replacement and NEVER fail, just change the plug caps to suit.

Gotta say the 'cheap' one look like a bloody good rip off imitation! For £60 its got to be worth a punt - the pivot adjustment stated on the 'real' one is huge - nearly 10mm - that should make a considerable difference in feel?

How can it be the same lever? One is cable, one is hydraulic! The master / slave ratio is the determinant

Wasn't a dig and sorry for the messed up arm which probably isn't helping with needing a lighter clutch - it may be a bit better but not enough for you? If you take ALL the slack out of this type of mechanism you'll burn plates - the plates need to expand when hot ...... no slack and it'll drag! A GSXR may have 4 springs against 6 of the GSX but it also has 2 more plates and handles 25 - 30 more HP - this may indicate a GSX clutch is over sprung?

Even wheel makers get it wrong - I had a bearing in a Marvic Penta wheel destroy itself on the dyno - when I eventually butchered the chain adjusters to get the wheel and axle out, it seems in their infinite wisdom they used an aluminium bearing spacer ! ! ! MUPPETS!

'Mixture screww with broken tip' - is the tip still there blocking the hole?

Because going full control really needs a crank trigger with more resolution than 4 odd teeth. The Dyna solution is a bit ghetto / simplistic but it works if you accept the limitations - I believe it group fires two cylinder injectors - like wasted spark but with fuel!

Its a nice 'pretty' solution that seems not to have been correctly executed! I'm guessing a 14mm master would work better if all the other slack levers and linkages were removed. The GSXR solution of through the shaft works directly - no slack. With the above arrangement you have potential slack in the slave to clevis, clevis to lever, lever shaft rack to pusher rack and pusher rack to thrust bearing and hub so you end up having to create more movement to take up the tolerances. Answer is become a gorilla and / or grow some man fingers. Alternatively, lighter springs and a lock up may ease the pain!

Can be simple or harder - your choice! Simple = Megasquirt for fuel + Dyna 2000 for trigger and sparks. Will need a TPS and a coolant temp sensor, fuel pump and regulator. Harder = Standalone ECU + trigger wheel + TPS, Coolant temp sensor, fuel pump and regulator. Talk to Arttu - he's done everything from cheap ghetto upwards!

Possibly an ex race bike so never road registered hence Q plate. May also explain 'matching numbers' - plenty of 'shady' stuff happened / s in the race world - the supply of engines to be blown up isn't bottomless LOL!