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About slingy1157

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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    Brisbane, Australia

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  1. Yep. Mine was stock shortstroke, bored to 76mm. Stock rods sleave to 17mm? I think. 04 zx10 pistons. Deck height was mere perfect from memory and used a stock 1052 head gasket. The big problem was CR. This was about 7.5-1, low even for turbo use, and this was already with a dot head obviously. CR would improve with a longer stroke a bit but I doubt a head skim would gain enough for NA running
  2. Mine was a short stroke 750 slingshot. Didnt have much luck with the carbs (just me) so went efi, then did ny own 813cc big bore with zx10 pistons. Only made about 130bhp at the rear wheel on 10psi, mainly because the zx10 pistons dropped the the cr too much so that would have dropped the na power starting point. Even though, SO much fun to ride, like a giant 2 stroke, without being silly power so could still wind it on and have some fun. Also here in Oz on ASF site, Latheboy has a longstroke (same as your engine basically) slingshot running blow through carb, t25 on 10 psi i think, sto
  3. Is that a FBM kit? Looks really good by the way
  4. Hi dave. The 750 went 1052, then 1157 then sold so i no longer have it. But definitely get back to yours and get it sorted. Efi rocks and ironically was the one element that always worked ok on all 3 engines lol
  5. Got my gsxr750 short stroke rods bronze sleeved to fit zx10 pistons. No dramas woth it
  6. I never had problems with oem style gaskets
  7. Yep. Datalogs will tell you everything you need to answer this. What does the map sensor read when static? And what map sensor do you have and is the right one selected to suit in the software. If a gm style map sensor, alot advertised as 3 bar aren't. You need to google the part number and check. 1 , 2 and 3 bar gm map sensor all look the same so be carefull.
  8. I worked with a guy here in oz, and he built a cheap drag car with a 4 cylinder motor, mechanical FI and a huge turbo. He actually filled the block and head water passages with resin to stiffen the block. And as has been said, i do remember him saying there was no over heating problems because of the methanol . Mmmmmm........Resin filled methanol WP running big boost?
  9. On a normally aspirated bike you could probably go really ghetto and use the tach out of the oem ignition module as the input reference to the mS. Then use the tach out from the mS to run the tacho again for fuel only. Save trying to diode and resistor a clean tach signal off the coil negatives. I wonder if you could use this as a crank signal and by adding a cam sensor then use the Ms for fuel and spark with the stock trigger wheel? Interesting......... .
  10. Good work. If the fuel height is about the same as gravity i dont you should lower the float height for the moment. Just do what your talking about and change one or 2 things at a time.
  11. That is actually a really good idea. Theres no reason why it couldnt be a like a 36-6 wheel and have 6 missing teeth really. As long the first tooth after the gap is still 5 teeth or more before TDC so it can work out the timing nicely for 1 and 4 it dosnt really matter. I still like the 36 tooth wheels as it keeps the math all nice and easy with 10deg per tooth and all that and gives really good timing reference to the ecu. And as one of the main issues is sync durring cranking with these then why not make the gap bigger so absolutely unmistakable at cranking. You can set it to wha
  12. Ok so to throw another slight spanner in the works here with the gravity test. The gravity pressure at the floatvalve is directly proportional to the height of the fuel not the volume. So an 8mm pipe with the end held 1metre above carbs and then filled with fuel will give the same pressure as a 5 litre fuel tank full of fuel with the fuel level 1metre above the carbs. So the key point here when doing a gravity test is that whatever fuel tank you are using, the fuel level needs to be about where it would be if it were in the oem tank on the bike. So if using a temp
  13. Yeah mine looked fine but didnt stop flooding untill i replaced all 4. An expensive exercise on the old bst36 carbs as you had to buy the whole plastic float and frame assembly to get them . Carbs really do need to be in 100% as new condition, not just clean. ANY wear seems to be greatly exaggerated by the fuel pressure and boost.
  14. Good work mate. Cant beat actually seeing what is going on. I would be questioning those gravity fed levels. I would of thought, looking at the carb design that the gravity level would be about halfway between the two marks you have. So they seem rather low. The 2.5psi marks are about what i would have expected. On my carby build using a modified webber fpr i think, i drilled out the fpr return right from the seat through, as i had an 8mm return line but couldnt get the pressure below about 2.5 either as the actual seat hole was about 4mm and was having flooding issues. I also ended up leaving
  15. I found new old stock plugs on Eblag from the us and ended up buying a dozen at a time as ngk's seem to die for a pass time as has already been mentioned. I could even park mine up running good and come back to it a few weeks later and struggle to get it running due to dead plugs. On a side note, i had an old dirt bike with a self tuned 2 stroke. It ran great on an old Champion plug i plagged from an ancient boat engine. Twice i thought, i really should give it the propper plug, and twice they died within literally seconds of running. I ended up just running the old Champion plug which i
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