Gixer1460

Looks like (from the 2nd photo) a 25/30mm pipe between the collector and the WG flange? If it is - definitely too small, should be ideally about the same as the outlet dump pipe. A 90 deg connection isn't best.... a curving connection from higher up, curving down into the flange may help? And a 38mm Tial should be good for controlling near 300hp

Can't be much profit in making and selling a couple O' three GSXR1000 headers a month! Laser cut flanges x 4 + turbo flange @ £5 each, 8 - 12No 38mm dia x 2mm thick pre bends @ £5 a pop and you're nearly at £100 then add in gas, tungstens, filler rod + 4 or 5 hrs labour (if you are lucky) @ £50 / hr and you should be anywhere between £350-£400 for summat decent.

OK - apologies for not knowing enough about 'antiquated tractor technology' suspension on early Slabbies - LOL!

A longer shock won't necessarily raise the rear - more likely cock up the linkage ratios. To raise the rear you need shorter 'dog bones' If you have the plate steel ones they can be cut and re-welded or make some - 19mm SS bar stock two LH threaded M12x12mm dia Rod ends and two RH threaded M12x12mm diaRod ends (they could be 10mm dia - need to check) Then they are adjustable - play to your hearts content!

Unless you are OCD and need everything perfect and providing none of the valve seats and plug threads are damaged - just use it! Make sure there are no sharp edges to get hot / melt and it should be fine. There may be some slight imbalance in combustion chamber volumes but probably not enough to make 2/10th of FA difference!

Funny enough Clive, I was at E Kirby and after a run the turbo on the Kawazuki didn't return to idle so clicked it off and rolled back to the pit. Wow - 6mm pebble loosely wedged between the S&S butterfly and body ! How lucky was that - could have been a mess! Just to teach it a lesson it got a right spanking the next run! And yes a filter would have been a good idea but as both my knees were spread wide - left to avoid the burning hot dump pipe and right to avoid choking the carb with my jeans - i'd have to have double jointed hip to get a filter on there!

Simple - bin the bolts and put some studs in there + brass or aluminium nuts either self lockers or with spring washers - job done! Can't say i've ever had a significant loosening - with a blow through set-up (and without additional support) you are hanging considerable weight off 8 bolts not designed to carry anything like that weight! Used both types of gasket - both work - prefer the pressed wire type for more solid mounting!

Spot on!

GSX pump, even uprated doesn't come close to moving 80 gallons / hr that the GSXR pump puts through their cooling circuit

Thought you said HOT! Its only 70 odd degrees over ambient - try over 160 over ambient with 2 bar boost and an intercooler - thats HOT!

It can be done but its not totally straight forward. The potential issue is the cam chain tunnel overlaps with the gasket - without some reworking its fairly minimal. Heres one I did a while ago - Gorilla block, 80.5mm GSXR pistons, Katana rods, stripped out GSXR1100K head, flowed and ported with 30/26mm SS valves, G28/G21 cams and about 14:1 CR! Using Race gas was pushing 175-180hp but never got to add the NOS! Pics are when I was thinking of turbo and methanol........ Oil flow / pressure was uprated with 750 gears but because the oily head cooling is piss poor - needs a reasonable oil cooler ( I used a 9 row on a drag bike) It would need more on a road bike.

With the style of the installation there's not much you can do about IAT's as its a shed load of piping to get an intercooler in there somewhere! A bit of water mist injection could help at the hottest end but its a bit of a BandAid.

I'll give you a clue........

Ha Ha Ha - looks as if IMGUR.com can't handle the photfit traffic anymore!

Interesting placement for the 'Pro 2' ! ! !

The dual ports are for use with a decent boost controller that can add or subtract boost at any point that it is programmed to do so - like if using boost against gears it can add more boost depending on gear and reduce it if a particular gear / rpm is wheelie prone - all clever stuff!

What state is the basket and hub in? Excessive ridges / grooving won't help everything trying to slide smoothly - not saying its a fix because even when brand spankers the GSX clutch was a heavy bastard! An adjusted pivot point / lever length will make a difference but has to be balanced with lower lift of the plates / potential clutch drag!

Suck eggs time - back out idle adjustment screw completely so not touching the throttle arm, then loosen / tighten throttle cable at twist grip until you get about 2mm of freeplay in the cable, then adjust the idle adjustment screw till the throttle blade is just cracked open. Start and if it idles low then screw the idle screw in a bit till correct ...... usually 800 - 1100 rpm depending on the bike.

Note to Self - If you have to stop something half way through or end of day / weekend / whatever, stick a strip of masking tape over the ign switch / clocks with 'NO OIL' or NO CLUTCH' or 'NO START'.written on it. It does help - unbelievably I know someone who rolled a bike off the centre stand with no back wheel in it ! ! ! Oh how we laughed cos stupidity knows no boundaries!

If it was me...........and it isn't ........ I wouldn't use dash 6 hose! Fairly sure the std hose ID is bigger than -6 equivalent! As these are the only things keeping the head cool, I wouldn't want to restrict oil - if anything flood it with more!

They only need one gear so clutch isn't an issue LOL!

You may call individuals filters 'pods' but in 'Gods Own Country', and the home of streetfightered modified bikes but Duals are called Pods!

Don't use individual filters with CV carbs - they just don't work well! Pods better and you'll need to play with jets and needles / positions - more air = more fuel!

I assume its #2? Its an odd fault as scoobies use as much boost as you likely used so far. I'd suggest replacing the O rings firstly as I can't see trying to fit washer retainers being a solution.

147.5 on the mains sound humongous - not right at all. Std Bindit is something around 105 from memory - I only needed 136's in a fairly full on 1186 GSXR with 36mm CV's and pods. I know a lot of peeps don't like DJ kits ...... but all the ones i've used have been pretty well right out of the box with only a little dyno work to refine!