Gixer1460

I understand the conversion for your disability but some of the relative lever angles could be improved and there are a lot of joints that introduce slack / backlash so 'delicacy' in gear selection could be problematical. My first thought when you described your problem was use an old C90 type 'heel and toe' type shifter - very direct and don't have to move your foot at all - just rock it, toe down or heel down for gear selection? But the GSX clutch is a 'bit agricultural' as regard tolerances and will appear sloppy / loose / worn when its fine with no problems. The hubs and baskets do suffer with the 'ridging' noted above, both being aluminium doesn't help together with steel of the plates. They can be filed out to smooth off but its a temporary fix - the symptoms will usually return, replacement is ultimately the required fix! Flat steels essential - grinding fairly extreme for a road bike - just make sure none are warped. Assume you are using OEM Suzuki fibres - others can be problematical, proven many times via this site and racing community.

Yes those valves can be used - they need to go in the collector to get maximum draw and with an exhaust having no back pressure - Ken Cooper used on his drag bikes for years! They ain't called anti backfire valves for no reason - an open line to the crankcase with highly volatile air / oil vapours from the exhaust could blow the crankcase apart quite spectacularly! And as the vapours do contain oil, you'll have a constant blue haze behind you!

Ah - see that now a altered the pic brightness! Yes - forged 90's would be lots lower. A M8 used straight head fittings with 180 degree fittings which were orientated at about 45 degrees and the hoses were virtually sitting on the cam cover - doesn't help does it......LOL!

Turn them upside down then the 90's can face forward towards the cooler?

Both will obtain the same objective - but the thick head gasket will be more prone to failure due to exposure!

Reminds me of a story about a very well known bike racer who got to end of the year having blown most of his shit up and couldn't afford new, so bored a set of barrels with one cylinder @ 1327 size, 0ne @ 1550 size and two @ 1427 size - vibrated a bit but held together for the whole meeting! With desperation anything is possible!

Logically my head says if the pistons are actually heavier then surely this unbalances the crank and should have some weight added to return the 'status quo'? Not easy to do - have seen tungsten slugs added to V8 cranks to achieve this but its not usual. I guess Bike OEM pistons are just 'pretty good' in regard weight vs use to start with!

Unless my melon has turned to mush overnight (possible) that scale says 344g not 355 !

Provided you never exceed 5psi boost ........ maybe? You generally need a couple of psi for carb as static then boost added on top and most like some headroom as well. A well regulated EFI pump is the usual choice.

The 750 GSXR version had 38's with a different casting that 'down drafted' the carb angle - the one off the 750F (or whatever it was called) may have used 36's - not sure if the casting was the same?

DOT head won't fit a 600 Bottom end! More than likely someone has had the proper 38mm 750 rubbers and tucked you up with something black and inlet rubber shaped!

Dezza M8, Spondon tube frames and Harris Mag 4's were never intended for wrapping - it'd just be wrong. With a fairing and from the front it'll look like a beach ball. Your bike but please think again?

In that case then a 10w60 will be no different to a 10w40! If it is start up viscosity then a 20w50 would be of benefit although this will generally hurt operation as engine not designed for it.

Thicker oils won't help with overheated oil......... control the temps with the right grade oil - winner winner chicken dinner!

SWMBO has a K GT550 that I built for her (f**kin waste of time as she'll never ride it now!) but that pootles around fine with the std clutch. Plenty of people are throwing bike engines into Smart cars and Mini's and they work with a std clutch.

You say 'Mountain Pass' ? So one could assume a bit of altitude? lower air pressure, both give poorer cooling performance but also engine performance - usually messes with carbs the most! So it may not entirely be the oil's fault!

Depends on what you want to know from the temps? As now its oil temp going to bearings, if you want to know hot hot the engine in getting then the sensor needs to be in the cyl. head somewhere in the flow of oil to the drains or within the drains. Both will be different!

They would be a good solution IMO. The bellmouth will help with flow (for what it's worth in a boosted application) I'd try and get the hole on the plenum metal as tight as possible to the rubber groove depth and deffo glue / seal it with some silicone / RTV - get both surfaces ultra clean. It would be a prime suspect area for boost leaks without sealant.

As I said - mainly used on cars where the long lines allow fuel cooling. Putting a return into the top of the bike tank is a bit more involved!

Not only head bolts / nuts but a check of valve clearances would be sensible - so i'd leave it nakid for a while! Heat cycling doesn't really load the engine - needs to do some work!

Or just wait till the next change?

Alphasports list these as #6 - 125mm x M8 and #7 -115mm x M8, so any good bolt supplier should be able to supply plated steel cap head screws - Grade 8.8 should be ok. Query - Isn't a Harris F1 a steel tubular frame not alloy ? ? ?

Don't do Faceache but looked at their site and couldn't find any info on the 'superfinishing' process - maybe it's some sort of blasting come polishing? Anyone confirm or clarify? The polishing aspect worries me as things like cams and valve stems have a certain 'roughness' to hold on to oil for lubrication......too slick, loss of oil = metal to metal contact? And why is no one else doing it - particularly engine tuners? Happy to be educated!

i'm not too skilled in reading compressor maps and have never seen that rule of thumb but Google says it is a good guide - I'm guessing atmospheric would be added, putting you in the 200-225hp region which seems about right for a T25?

Psssst - Read rule #5.................I didn't make them ! ! !